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Y Block Question

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Riley View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-05-2011 at 2:15pm
Sure, I figured they made them with holes also, as that's what ours has, one for the pcv valve and one for the oil.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-05-2011 at 2:22pm
Look closely at the VC on E Bay. No holes.....
Intercepter had their own VC , most were painted, but a very few were chrome...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-05-2011 at 2:39pm
I guess I never paid that close attention as we didn't need them. The FE covers on ebay don't have holes either, but I was able to find some nice ones that did. There's a lot of after market stuff out there.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Inboard Fanatic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2011 at 12:44am
Billy,

Since you built the 312 that went to England, can you answer my original question in this thread? Should there be an additional spacer between the cam gear and block on a RH rotation 292,(312 in your case)? I checked the video again on YouTube, (sounds great by the way), and it does appear to be a RH engine.

Jeff
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wingwrench Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2011 at 2:30pm
Originally posted by Inboard Fanatic Inboard Fanatic wrote:

Billy,

Since you built the 312 that went to England, can you answer my original question in this thread? Should there be an additional spacer between the cam gear and block on a RH rotation 292,(312 in your case)? I checked the video again on YouTube, (sounds great by the way), and it does appear to be a RH engine.

Jeff


On my 256 there is a plate attached to the block with 2 bolts between the cam gear and block.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2011 at 4:23pm
wing, give me a call at the shop anytime.........1-318-386-2825
I am no expert by any means on the Y Block, but this is not my first rodeo either........boat dr
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Inboard Fanatic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-14-2011 at 10:22am
Just wanted to update everyone on this post, the answer on the additional spacer is that there should only be one spacer between the cam gear and face of the block. In some cases the spacer is integrated into the cam gear and in others it is not. I found out this is the case on RH and standard rotation y blocks. The separate spacer I found during disassembly that was in place between the gear and block was actually supposed to be between the fuel pump eccentric and cam gear and after doing this I now have .002-.003 endplay in the cam as it should be. I will post some pics soon of the progress on this rebuild and I want to thank everyone for their help including Jim over at "The Engine Room" and Billy down in Louisiana for taking the time to speak with me on the phone.

Jeff
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-14-2011 at 10:34am
Jeff,
I'm happy to hear the good news. I knew you'd get the help needed and would find the solution when checking the end play during assembly. The info will sure help when the day comes I need to open mine up!!

So, evidently a PO put it together wrong!!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Inboard Fanatic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2011 at 10:11am
Quick update on my build. Short block almost together, found out the crank oil seal on the timing cover is not the same as an automotive seal for the same engine. Not sure why the Interceptor folks would have done that, naturally it's not a stock item in the parts store either so it is coming in from the store warehouse today. Here are a couple pics, hopefully I got the timing marks right when I indexed the gears, all my manual showed on the RH version is just that, "index the gears", no pictures.

Jeff

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2011 at 1:10pm
Jeff , there was an issue w/high water temp at idle . It is an easy fix fix while the engine is at this stage. Give me a call and I will share what I did on the last three I have built..........Boat dr
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Inboard Fanatic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2011 at 11:23pm
I'll give you a call if I get chance tomorrow Billy. Just for future reference the replacement oil seal is a National seal #472164, it fit like a glove.

Jeff
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Inboard Fanatic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2011 at 10:50am
Making some progress on re-assembling the engine but I have hit another snag. Does the screen for the crankcase ventilation in the valley pan under the carbs go aft or forward? I assumed it would go aft for any excess fuel to drain but I am questioning that now after looking at the pics that were taken before I took the assembly apart to blast and paint it. There is an 1/8" vacuum tubing on the one airhorn that is closed off on the bottom and from the pics I have that airhorn is over the screen in the valley, but it is possible this was changed at some time before I got it. I looked at some pics that have been posted here of some original set ups and the air horn with the vacuum tube is aft. Anyone know how it should be?

Jeff

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2011 at 3:14pm
Jeff,
I was hoping Billy would spot your question and respond. He's the one who's recently had a couple Y's apart. I've never dug into mine that far however, I do feel the screen goes aft as well as the carb horn that's open. I'm going to take a look in my manual when I get home. I took a look at the one here in the reference section but it doesn't go into detail on the parts. Mine does.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uk 1979 part2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2011 at 6:52pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Jeff,
I was hoping Billy would spot your question and respond. He's the one who's recently had a couple Y's apart. I've never dug into mine that far however, I do feel the screen goes aft as well as the carb horn that's open. I'm going to take a look in my manual when I get home. I took a look at the one here in the reference section but it doesn't go into detail on the parts. Mine does.


He has Pete, then rang me to post a picture,have tried to split my post with a new name "Boat,Doc's Yard Boy" as I'm out of down load space.

It is set to the back see picture,
lets have a go 2
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2011 at 8:09pm
Roger,
I talked with him today as well. Sounds like he may be literally knee deep in whatever comes down that river if the levee doesn't hold!!

Jeff,
I looked in my manual at the different carb/valley pans/horns/etc. Regrettably, the pictures do not show forward or aft!! However, I still say the pan vent and the carb horn that has the vented bottom, should go aft. It's the aft carb that will puke gas if there are problems! BTW, mine has never done it to my knowledge.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uk 1979 part2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2011 at 9:32pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Roger,
I talked with him today as well. Sounds like he may be literally knee deep in whatever comes down that river if the levee doesn't hold!!


Billy and Karen will be in my thoughts and pray it all holds up......but you know Billy he said well if we flood I build a new house.... that's the sprite that built America.
lets have a go 2
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2011 at 11:01pm
The river level as we speak is at 56.98 or 57 feet msl. My house is less than 10 miles from the Mississippi River, it sits at 56 msl. The river is expected to crest at Natchez Mississippi on the 21st at 64 msl.
Not real good in math during school , but I think my shop will get wet if that levee dont hold...........8 to 10 feet over the entire parish is what The Corps predict....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Inboard Fanatic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2011 at 3:11am
I am getting very close to completeing my rebuild on the 185 Interceptor. I am now trying to figure out what the original set up was on the alternator. I am fairly certain the alternator I have is original, a prestolite in the original Interceptor color, but I am questioning the long bolt spacer set up. The pic below shows how it came to me, there is a long spacer to the rear that does not seem to accomplish anything and I was wondering if maybe there was some sort of bracket that went from the block to the end of that spacer originally as the alternator seems to give too much when I apply tension on the belt and the pulley is not exactly lined up with the others. Also, in the pic is a bracket that was used to hold the voltage regulator and starter relay, questioning whether this was original or not, seems sort of strange to me. After I get these things figured out it will come off the stand and will get the bellhousing and tranny installed. I was holding off on shooting any additional pics until I got the new decals on it, planning on doing that tomorrow.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wingwrench Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2011 at 9:55am
Here is what mine used.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2011 at 10:09am
I think you're missing the bracket (arm) that bolts onto the exhaust manifold.

I don't feel the regulator and relay bracket are original. Both would have been on a plate on the aft end of the engine above the bell housing.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Inboard Fanatic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2011 at 11:02am
Thanks for the pic and replys, on the later models with an alternator the adjuster bracket appears to go to the timing cover instead of the exhaust manifold like the earlier generator types, and I have that bracket in place. After looking at the pic from wingwrench there is definitely a bracket to the rear of the long spacer that bolts to the block. I guess during the previous rebuild on this engine they decided it was not needed but I believe it will force the pulley to line up and also make the mount more solid, now all I have to do is find or fabricate one. Off to the shop before it hits 109 again today. Thanks again for the help.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2011 at 11:57am
Originally posted by Inboard Fanatic Inboard Fanatic wrote:

on the later models with an alternator the adjuster bracket appears to go to the timing cover instead of the exhaust manifold like the earlier generator types,
Jeff

Jeff,
My 312 with the alternator has the bracket to the exhaust manifold.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Inboard Fanatic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2011 at 4:51pm
Thanks for the info Pete, I guess it's possible they used a different bracket on mine when they did the rest of the work to it. I was going on the pic Skutsch had posted with his all original '63 312 which is also the pic I used to duplicate the air horn arrangement with the vented one to the front and the one with the vacuum line to the rear and also fabricated the lifting strap between the manifold bolts. Here is how everything turned out in the pics below. I will now get it off the lift so I can finsh the rest of the assembly.

Jeff





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2011 at 5:12pm

Is that Alpine Green?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Inboard Fanatic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2011 at 8:08pm
Yes, it is Alpine Green. Here are a few more pics, I went ahead and fabricated a bracket to hold the alternator like it is supposed to be. Maybe by next weekend I can get it off the lift and mount the bellhousing with the starter so I can get it running, getting anxious to hear it run.









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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2011 at 8:33pm
J.
It looks great but I'm disappointed on the color. Reid got it the closest even though it could be a little darker - however, colors don't always come through correctly on the net.







Did you get the decals from the Steve(s) Hilpisch's?

Bruce and Steve,
Alpine green is NOT correct!!



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2011 at 9:15pm
Looks great Jeff nice job
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wingwrench Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2011 at 9:49pm
Looks great Jeff.

Pete,
Alpine Green was a perfect match to the original color on my engine. I found 3 layers of greens when I bead blasted the engine, all different. I matched the first layer. If it isn't correct what is the correct color number?

Jack
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Inboard Fanatic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2011 at 10:34pm
Thanks for the comments. I agree Pete, the Alpine green did not match the original color that I bead blasted off. There does seem to be several variations of the original color out there on engines that supposedly have never been touched. On mine it was lighter with more blue in it, almost like sky blue with a hint of green. Anyway, mine has obviously been redone and the color works for me as far as an "off the shelf" paint goes. The decals did come from Steve Hilpisch, he also confirmed the air horn question for me.

Jeff
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2011 at 10:53pm
Originally posted by wingwrench wingwrench wrote:

Looks great Jeff.

Pete,
Alpine Green was a perfect match to the original color on my engine. I found 3 layers of greens when I bead blasted the engine, all different. I matched the first layer. If it isn't correct what is the correct color number?

Jack

Jack,
Then a PO has been in there before you!!!

Originally posted by Inboard Fanatic Inboard Fanatic wrote:

Thanks for the comments. I agree Pete, the Alpine green did not match the original color that I bead blasted off. There does seem to be several variations of the original color out there on engines that supposedly have never been touched. On mine it was lighter with more blue in it, almost like sky blue with a hint of green.

Jeff


Jack.
You are not keeping it as original as I'd like you to be! You need to do more RESEARCH!!      Did you even use the search feature on the site to see what the color should be?????? No one to date has come up with a "color number". In today's state of technology, it's not even needed!!! It's called "color scanning!!


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