Drive shaft straightening ??

TRBenj wrote: Shoot for 1/2" of clearance from strut to prop hub.

If you go any shorter than 3/8", theres a good chance you wont be able to fit a prop puller in there. Separating the coupling halves to swap props is a PITA.

Her is one 53" but I think its for a pass through coupling like the Hurth gear. Not a face to face type.



http://www.ebay.com/itm/GEKKO-SKI-BOAT-53-1-4-INCH-PROPELLER-SHAFT-AND-COUPLE-/370275212649?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item56361f5d69&vxp=mtr

Ok, got the shaft out tday, not as hard as I thought it'd be. Just took awhile to get all 8 coupler bolts off (2 open end wrenches at a 1/4 - 1/2 turn each at a time), it helped that I squirted some pb blaster the day before. Took the set screws and collar bolts out and then just started tapping with the hammer to get it moving. Once it would slide I tapped on the back of the coupler and was eventually able to slide the coupler off - not bad.
I can roll the shaft on a known flat surface and it look just like the tip is off... I think I might take it to a machine shop to see if they can true it up....

So if I can get this shaft corrected, what special things would I need to do for re-installing? I'm sure getting the coupler on the shaft will not be as easy as taking it off. And I know I need to confirm alignment once it is bolted in. Btw, the strut bearing is fine. There is very little if any play, and after removal, there doesn't appear to be any uneven wear.

So I guess I'm going to get a new shaft. Should I get the one from nautique parts? Or the one from skidim?
I know NP is a site sponsor, and it appears to be about $100 cheaper....

shagit wrote: So I guess I'm going to get a new shaft. Should I get the one from nautique parts? Or the one from skidim? I know NP is a site sponsor, and it appears to be about $100 cheaper....

Unless you know the EXACT dimention of the new shaft (shafting has diameter tollerances) and your coupling, don't use your old coupling. Remember it's an interference fit of .000" to -.0005".

The easier way is to go with the ARE double taper shaft system. Then, you won't even need to heat shrink the coupling on. Billy and Karen distribute them. 318 386 2825

shagit wrote: Hoping things will be pretty easy to line up/adjust...

Been there, done that and it's not like a DD.

I'm good.    I think I drank about a pallet or so doing the rehab, didn't speed the process any and now I probably need to go rehab myself.

Hotter and longer...
But the ARE is probably worth the 100 clams once one factors in time, hassle and just old worn out parts.

I did 20 min in the oven at 400 with a solo cup full of ice water on the shaft, I believe those are the standards posted around here somewhere. Also remember I had no Vdrive or motor in my way.   Coupler was on a cookie sheet, saw horses set so I could set it down, jump in the boat, pull off the cup and grab the coupler.   Buzzer went off, welding gloves on and I made it to the door before I burnt my hands. Now the coupling is on the porch 50 yards from the boat and I'm looking for oven mits.   Found them, set the coupling on top of them a ran to the boat. It slipped right on, mybe 1/8 in short and that's it you do t get 2 tries. Good enough for me, the shaft was pulled out a little further before from a rope catch so I know the prop clears. Only thing I missed was being able to tighten the set bolt, had to drill another spot.

If you figure you're going to have to make 2 attempts and that $100 isn't much. Once it touches the shaft the heat starts to transfer and the shaft expands every locks up, that's going to be difficult to get it lined up and slid on with the Vdrive in the way. I think I got a little lucky because we do this at work every now and then, I was familiar with the process before I tried it.

I think all you need is the socket, it's thin and designed to fit between the couplings. They make some other things that make pulling the shaft and changing the strut bushings quick and painless, but I don't think you need them to put the shaft in. SKIDIM has the whole set up and a video of what to do on their site.

Another cost justification for the ARE shaft is avoidance of the trip to the ER, when you get 3rd degree burns on your forearm.

art cozier shop maybe?

Anybody know somewhere in central fla that stocks the ARE and around the same price? Was hoping to put a shaft in next week....