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1993 nautique won't run over 3200 rpm

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Gary S View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-13-2014 at 2:38pm
Good deal it's easy to forget that many people now days have no experience doing tuneups. When we were younger it was a right of passage watching your Dad tune up the car every fall
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JasonS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-13-2014 at 3:25pm
My dad could work on any engine known to man when he was younger but refused to show me anything about it. I was bad to take power tools apart when I was a little kid so I guess he was afraid of what all I would take apart if I knew anything about engines.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-14-2014 at 2:24am
All of these techniques (like timing an engine) can be seen on a you-tube how to's.   It's worth the time to learn DIY stuff. It's like building blocks - each new experience helps you down the road.

I don't even start a car repair without consulting the internet anymore.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote backfoot100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-14-2014 at 10:35am
Originally posted by Bri892001 Bri892001 wrote:


But it sounds like you have an electronic. The nice thing about that is you don't have to worry about dwell etc.
You can time it later, but a tuneup (changing the cap and rotor) on an electronic won't change the timing from what it is.


I agree with Brian. Just change cap, rotor and plug. Check the wires to make sure they're good. Go skiing. No need to time it. Much easier in your situation than points.
After you changed that stuff, the carb was jacked up because you had it rebuilt (for no reason) and you needed to make idle mixture and idle RPM adjustments to it all over again.


When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JasonS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-16-2014 at 10:43pm
Ok ran the boat in the water today and no change. It takes a long while of warming up at about 1100 rpms to even be able to idle. Top speed is 34 and top rpms are 3200. With a skier it stumbles backfires and misses when I floor it to take off from idle. Even if I put a little pressure on the skier it still does it. What do I need to check or change now?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-16-2014 at 11:28pm
The description on this last post is a little different than the original description (now has poor idle & takeoff). I think you are going to have to suspect both ignition & carb. Check for good spark, check that the plug wires are in the right sequence, still recommend checking timing.

If you have the prestolite EI dizzy, there is a gap adjustment inside that could have changed. Maybe the advanced weights are seized.

Do you have a mechanic that you can take it too? His experience might be worth the money on this one.

Otherwise you might end up throwing a bunch of parts at it to no avail.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote backfoot100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-17-2014 at 11:07am
Did you verify you have the plug wires in the right firing sequence? Pretty common issue to get the wires wrong when changing a cap.
I guess another thing is verify that the choke is operating as it should. Remove the flame arrestor. When cold, the choke plate should have a 1/16"-1/8" gap opening. Turn the key on without starting the engine and the choke plate should slowly open up to wide open. This will take about 45 seconds to a minute. If it isn't setup and operating right, it could certainly cause some issues. Maybe not the same issues you're having but issues none the less.

You've changed the ignition parts and messed with the carb (which is probably not right either based on your experience level) so I don't know what other parts you can throw at it.
Short of verifying the wiring order, the only other thing to do is checking the timing and then going from there.

When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JasonS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-17-2014 at 12:28pm
Thanks, Ill try that. I guess Ill have to find someone to go with me. It seems to run fine sitting on the trailer. I know for a fact I didn't get any of the wires wrong swapping them over, that doesn't mean they weren't that way when I got it though it has ran this way every since Ive had it. The part that Im not understanding is that it "seems" to run fine or smoothly when its is at or above 1500 RPM's. It just falls on its face on the start, levels off, then runs out too early at 3200 rpm's.

As a recap, I changed the cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires, and fuel filter.

Oh and the new impeller fixed my cooling problem too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-17-2014 at 12:45pm
Any pics of your boat and engine?

Do you know the rotation of your engine? Most we're Left hand standard automotive by 93, but a few were right hand reverse. This could be a cause if firing order confusion.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JasonS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-17-2014 at 12:55pm
Standing at the front of the engine looking at the belts, it turns counterclockwise.(that's from memory) trying to get wife to send me engine pics.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-17-2014 at 1:02pm
Uh-ha!

Sounds like you might have a righty.

If someone put the plug wires set up for the more common lefty, that could be your issue.

You'd be surprised how well a motor will run with the plug wires mixed up. You might not be able to tell until you lean on the throttle.

I once managed to mix up wires in a 4 cylinder Jetta, and it still ran, just ran terrible. A V8 would more easily mask that mistake.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JasonS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-17-2014 at 1:28pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JasonS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-17-2014 at 1:30pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JasonS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-17-2014 at 1:31pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-17-2014 at 1:45pm
A v8 will start and run surprisingly well on 6 or 4 cylinders (1 or 2 sets of plug wires crossed), but it will not run on 1 cylinder- which is what you'd e trying to do with a LH firing order on a RH 351w.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote backfoot100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-17-2014 at 1:58pm
Originally posted by JasonS JasonS wrote:

It seems to run fine sitting on the trailer. I know for a fact I didn't get any of the wires wrong swapping them over, that doesn't mean they weren't that way when I got it though it has ran this way every since Ive had it.


So it's never run right since you've had it? Brian is right. If the crank is rotating CCW as you describe, it's a RH rotation. The pics look like it's canted back at a pretty good angle which would indicate a 1:1 BW tranny and all 1:1 trannys were RH which is pretty rare in that year boat but certainly possible to have.

Like Tim said, only having 4 or 6 cylinders working unloaded on the trailer can run pretty well but will do exactly as you describe loaded on the water.

Unfortunately, I can't help with firing order in that engine. I've seen a couple different ones on the Ford engines so someone will have to verify what that would be.
When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-17-2014 at 1:59pm
Good point Tim, I didn't think about that.

But, it still sounds to be like some plug wires are crossed or the spark is arching somewhere.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-17-2014 at 2:03pm
Page 17 of the original manual, which is page 21 of the PDF, has the information you need to check the firing order:
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/Downloads/1993_PCM_Engine_Manual.pdf
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-17-2014 at 2:04pm
18456273
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JasonS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-17-2014 at 2:07pm
Thanks for the help, Ill check that as soon as I get home and post the results.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JasonS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-17-2014 at 7:08pm
Ok another newbie question or two. Choke plate, is that the plate that is over the primaries on the carburetor? If so I believe that mine stays open all the time.

Second one is about firing order and cylinder number location.

If I am standing in front of the engine like in the second picture, how are the cylinders numbered. Also I looked at the firing order in the manual and not sure where to start on the distributor. Is the drawing based on standing in front of the motor looking back at it or standing at the back end of the motor? Sorry for the questions but I want to get this right.

Thanks again.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-17-2014 at 7:54pm
Here is the cylinder layout

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-17-2014 at 8:32pm
This is the distributor on my RH motor. Make sure yours is definitely RH. Keep in mind, your rotor turns counter clockwise, regardless of rotation. The exact position of the #1 depends on how the dizzy is set up, but the wires relation to one another is important.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JasonS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-17-2014 at 8:33pm
2and 3 were swapped!!!

It was 18456372 instead if 1845627.

Choke plate is setting at about 3/16" open now and are slowly opening. There is black crap all in the primaries and on the choke plate.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JasonS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-17-2014 at 8:47pm
I checked rotation again, sitting in drivers seat looking at motor, engine rotates counterclockwise.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JPASS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-17-2014 at 9:06pm
I thought the rotation was designated in the 2nd letter of the model number on the engine tag. PRP is right hand rotation. PLP is left (standard). No?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-17-2014 at 11:52pm
Nice!

Have you gotten a chance to test it out?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-18-2014 at 12:05am
Originally posted by JasonS JasonS wrote:

I checked rotation again, sitting in drivers seat looking at motor, engine rotates counterclockwise.

Which is RH. You are on the right path.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JasonS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-18-2014 at 1:49am
Unfortunately no. Hopefully I will tomorrow afternoon.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JasonS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-18-2014 at 1:53pm
With all of the backfiring, Im assuming it was dumping fuel on an open valve? If that is the case, do I need to change the oil and filter now. Also do I need to clean all the black oily fuel off of the choke plate and in the primaries in the carburetor before I run it much or will it just burn off? Still haven't had time to run it but am trying to think ahead before I get too carried away if it does run good.
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