the long road ahead - 67 Nautique resto/mod

Hey Chuck.

I am going to use the original mounts. I had considered a cradle, and I guess if I get more creative and ambitious, I could still do it. Probably will leave it.

Surprised to hear you say that Pete. I know that my ski pole has a bit of slop in it, not too bad . . . if I ever come to the day of redoing stringers having a cradle for the engine that would also support the pylon would be something to consider.

Mike does your pylon sit go through a 2x6 that is notched into the main stringers?


Chuck

WakeSlayer wrote: Pete, in honor of your credo, I am going to keep it nearly original. The only real mods are going to be the engine

So youre regelling? Nice!

WakeSlayer wrote: Ha ha. That one is still up for debate. However, it is extremely likely at this point. probaby 80/20 in favor of. The Ponyboat is getting painted as we speak, but this one will need so much body work that I may as well gel. As near as I can tell it would cost nearly the same.

Gel!! What color are you going with?

You might have mentioned it before and I missed it but on page 3, the newest pictures of the stringers- It looks like you are capping right over top of the notches for the cross members and then cutting them back out after the resin has cured? Are you then going to go another layer over top of the cross member to tie it all together? Those cross members were amongst the most rotten areas of my boat so I am curious what other people are doing.

Can someone explain to me the purpose of the notches? In the stock stringer system, there were some cross pieces stapled into these, right? Without the foam underneath, I cant see these providing much floor support- am I wrong? The stringers on our Skier will not have notches... instead, we are adding ribs between the secondary stringer and the hull wall. Mostly 1x's, but we'll use 2x's where the joints in the ply floor will land. Seems a lot more straightforward than having to glass in those notches- especially if youre not foaming.

Mike, I was actually thinking about your boat the other day as I was looking the Barracuda over. I guess both boats are in fairly similar condition. I was wondering how you were going to make minor gel reapirs, but now I know. I don't want to go that route. I can live with the checking on the deck and wet sanding will remove the scratches and restore the gel, but how do you repair gouges, especially along the chine?

^^^exactly my point^^^

The notches seem to be prone to rot in the factory stringer system. Im sure they can be built better than they were on a restring, but theyre still a PITA to install correctly. I dont see the need to tie the stringers together with these straps, since the floor serves the same purpose. My guess is that these pieces simply allowed the factory to prebuild the stringer system and drop it the boat in one piece. Since we're not in a production environment and are replacing them one by one, I think theres a better way. A few strategically placed ribs seem to be a more sound design, easier to fully encapsulate, provide better support for the floor, and require minimal extra material. They also provide structural support between the hull and floor, which is probably a good idea if youre not refoaming. Did I mis anything?

For reference, here's a pic of Joe's rebuild (no foam, no straps). I think this is a good build to steal ideas from if youre not foaming, regardless of whether youre using coosa or wood. Ribs spaced in the 12-18" range (depending on the hull, floor thickness, etc) is probably about right.

What about the cross members? I have the same question. What purpose do they serve and do I need to add them back into my 83? I am going to foam but still don't see the need for them. Am I missing something?

Roger, how's that 66 Barracuda coming along?

What are you guys using for your floors. I used 5/8" fir cdx in the Mustang which seems really strong, especially after a few coats of epoxy.

Our Classic has 1/2" which is what I think was used originaly. It is adequate, buy is definately a little springy, especially in areas where there is no support under the floor.

Mike,
Considering the close spacing of stringers and crossmembers the 1/2" would be a option if you want to save some weight. However, I suggest defiantly epoxying the ply down to the stringers and crossmembers. No screws unless they are temporary until the epoxy cures. Places like the removable center section aft of the dog house where support may be lacking, a couple 1x2's glassed to the bottom (on edge) of the ply will provide the support. Where the floor meets the hull side, you may what to incorporate the wood backing for the spray rails to support the floor as well.

8122pbrainard wrote: Where the floor meets the hull side, you may what to incorporate the wood backing for the spray rails to support the floor as well.

That is what I have been considering as I have been working on it.

I did epoxy the floor down in the Mustang, but I also used some screws. Partly for the strength, and partly to hold down the ply as it had a couple twists in it from sitting around, despite being weighted. I pre-drilled, and epoxied the holes, countersunk slightly, and filled the tops. That floor is never coming out.

The 3/4" does not have hardly any flex to it. I have a couple aluminum angles across between the stringers in the Mustang to support the removeable panel. It is just main stringer width. On this boat, I will have it go 7.5" wider on each side to the secondaries so I can access the exhaust if need be. This may require more support.


With respect to my exhaust. I have copper pipes that go out the back. They are 3 1/8" OD. I need to put my boards in in the next day or so. Seeking opinions on whether to leave these or replace with 3" stainless. On one hand, the copper could be all shiny and pretty, but require constant cleaning. How hard will it be to force modern 3" wired hose over these? I am sure I can get it, but may be tough. Also, I imagine I will have a hard time getting a hole saw that size so I would have to likely drill 3", then sand round to the larger size.

I did two more runs of tape on the inside of the mains last night. I have currently, 2", 2", 4", 8" cap, 8", 4".   I still have enough to do another 8" down the joint if need be. Opinions on adding or just leaving it? Then I plan to cap with biax, then do a wide strip of biax from hull to the top edge of the stringers. I am going to do some repair and buildup work around the strut, and I think this will tie into that well. Thoughts?

Mike,
The last time I had to fight the copper pipe sizing (1/8" over nominal) was on my X55. It's got 2&1/2" copper so the OD is 2&5/8. Yes, 2&1/2" hose did go on it but not without a fight!!

Mcmaster does list rubber coolant hose in a 3&1/8" size.

WakeSlayer wrote: I did epoxy the floor down in the Mustang, but I also used some screws. Partly for the strength, and partly to hold down the ply as it had a couple twists in it from sitting around, despite being weighted. I pre-drilled, and epoxied the holes, countersunk slightly, and filled the tops. That floor is never coming out.

I did the same with the Barracuda. I used 3/4 exterior grade. Also filet the edges to the hull and then glassed the floor to the hull and to the stingers. If water gets to the foam, it will have to come in thru the hull. And if it does that, only the very top of the foam does not have the self sealing coating on it. I sanded the top of the foam down smooth with a belt sander before I biaxialed over the foam and crossmembers.