351 rebuild components

Ok, now with the photos out of the way I must admit I am stumped and need a little help. I have read all I can find on lifter preload but am still not exactly sure what I am doing. I need to determine if my original pushrod length will be correct. I plan on purchasing new pushrods once I determine what length I need and I am not exactly sure how to do that. I'm now wishing I had the extra money for the studs and andjustable valve train but it just isn't in the budget so I need to figure this out.

Can anyone put the procedure in plain speak so I can determine what I need and get them ordered? Thanks

That must be a wild ride in that little boat Doc.

I put a new cloyes double roller chain in. Very reasonable $40 bucks.

My heads are brand new, never milled so I really think I could use stock pushrods. The reason I'm skeptical is because the valve stems could be different than my old heads. I figure Tim will have a little advise in a day or so and then I can get the last of my parts ordered and drop this puppy back in the boat.

We'll work something out for the 600 holley once I know what Hollywood needs to do. I was going to save it as a spare but that sort of stuff usually sits on the shelf collecting dust so might as well get it to someone that can use it. Thanks

81nautique wrote: I have read all I can find on lifter preload but am still not exactly sure what I am doing. I need to determine if my original pushrod length will be correct. I plan on purchasing new pushrods once I determine what length I need and I am not exactly sure how to do that.

81, here's what you need to do to check preload:

With all of your pushrods and rockers in place, tighten your rocker bolts down and torgue to spec. Then rotate the crankshaft in the direction of running until the #1 piston is on the compression stroke and coming up on top dead center (both valves closed). Then check the plungers of the two lifters for cyl #1 (intake and exhaust). The plungers should be recessed below their retainers by .020 to .060". This is the proper preload for hydraulic lifters. If the plungers are not within this specification then you need to shorten or lengthen your pushrods. Once the lifters are checked for #1 Cyl, rotate the crank to the next cyl in the firing order and check the lifters for this cyl. Continue until done. That is it! If you are within specs for all cylinders you can use the pushrods you have and have a good feeling that your engine is right.

Alan, Nutty is correct. The best set of instructions I found for checking lifter preload was from Comp Cams. The section on setting hydraulic lifter preload for non-adjustable rocker arms is pretty good.

Got the last of my parts in today so I can hopefully button this thing up saturday. Installed the pushrods and set the preload. Decided to use my own method. I tried the 2 score lines on the pushrods but that was difficult to measure and its also a little difficult to get a good reading with a feeler gage in the lifter. I ended up using a dial indicator with a magnetic base. I Bottomed out the lifter like the other methods, attached a small clamp to the pushrod then set the dial indicator to 0 and backed off the rocker nut, took a reading, shimmed as needed and rechecked my measurement. Good to go.

Tim,

I measured each lifter with the scratch method and it showed I had 2 pushrods that would need to be shimmed differently than all the rest. That's why I didn't trust my measurements. Turns out I came up with the same results with the dial indicator so I was right on the first time but feel better that I confirmed it.

My initial measurements showed I had between .085 and .095 on most lifters so I ordered shorter pushrods, 8.156 and then used an .030 shim on all but 2. That got me to between .024 and .034. I checked those other 2 pushrods several times to make sure I was right and came up with the same measuements each time, must be a difference in either the valve grind or rocker arm.

TRBenj wrote: Are you getting your new pushrods from summit?

Yes, they were a little more money than I wanted to spend but I couldn't get the lenght I wanted in a standard heat treated steel pushrod. Had to go with Crane chrome molley.

81, Looks too good to start,all that work pays off.
I don't know about you , but when I get this stage of the game , I start to ask myself all kinds of questions.
Rod bolt torque,did i do them all the same.
main bolts ditto above
did i do this , did i do that???????
The BS if fixin' ta stop, when I turn tha prop..............Boat dr gives you a 10

Looks nice Alan. Hope it runs as good as it looks. BKH

Thanks guys.

Doc, I know what you mean, I've assembled this thing 20 times in my head. Took my time and tried to check everything I did atleast 2-3 times. Keep your fingers crossed.

MM, I mounted the carb without the spacer plate for now and the carb sits at exactly the same height as it would with the old cast iron intake and spacer. The old steel fuel line bolted right on without any mods so I know the flame arrestor will fit.I may put the spacer on later and see if there is any difference in performance but for I'm good to go.

Will we be at Green Lake, absofloginlutley, see you there.

It rained all day so my plans to pull the boat off the trailer and clean the bottom changed to inside work. I decided to drop the engine in. Got about 95% done. Still have some wiring to tidy up, adjust throttle and shift cables, align it and finish hooking up the raw water supply and I'll be ready to fire it up next weekend. keeping my fingers crossed.

I think I just found my new screen saver.

That engine looks HOT!!! Good luck with the fire up .

Pat

Sounds great Alan . Cograts on the succesful rebuild .

Pat

Munday wrote: Great job 81 been watching your post.Love the blue paint very clean job congrats.Seems there is always one leak to deal with esp on ford wqter pumps.I've been using this gasket adhesive called "The Right Stuff" permatex will work even when parts are wet and disassembly not to bad. Munday

Thank Munday, I'll pick some up and give it try. Still can't believe of all the things that could have gone wrong the water pump is leaking.