Winterizing Question

Mike, I have Dr. Phil's number close, do I need to share it with you.A little one on one therapy is good for the soul.....bong water?????


The count down has started ...............
Can not wait to see that white stuff........

He may just be busy at the moment. Probably out with 3 other yard boys re engineering a marine exhaust manifold into a 4 hole bong. Imagine the cooling you could get by running chilled (-100F AF of course) liquid through the water porting.

tullfooter wrote: 502Python wrote: As long as your bong water is a 50/50 mix of -100 A/f and water and you don't drop Dorito crumbs in the thermostat you should be OK. And whatever you do, don't spill the bong water. It's harder to get the smell of bong water out of your interior, than the orange Cheetos stains. (or so I've heard)

Your kids tell you that?

Well; as the new guy here; let’s see just how many folks I can torque off:

WhiteLakeSkier wrote: why would the thermostat be closed if the engine is warm? it has to be cooled or it will go from warm to really hot. I dont know what work ethics have to do with this. i wish you all would focus on the actual thing being disagreed on, rather than acting like children. when you argue with children they do the same thing and start going off on other things. too much circular reasoning going on here

I know people will pay $20 to $40 for a thermostat; but do you really think a $1 part will never fail? Thermostats stick; usually shut.

boat dr wrote: WhiteLakeSkier wrote: why would the thermostat be closed if the engine is warm? The thermostat opens or closes as the coolant temp rises or falls. This has little to do with block temp.If the block temp is 200 and you pour in 75 degree mixture the 'stat will slam closed till the mixture reached the opening temp of the thermostat,140 or so,,,,,,,,,,,DUH?????

I won’t ask how you boys and girls rig your boats up; but for me: block temperature is pretty close to coolant water temperature. Cylinder heads may be a bit warmer. The water I use is pretty thermally efficient at gathering heat from the engine; and spreading it around. My thermostat seems pretty efficient at limiting the upper range of engine temperature for me. And; I can only get the pumps to cram so much water into the eingine at any time.

Again; I don’t know how the coolant flow is in your engine; but if my block is 200 degrees; and the thermostat opens; and 75 degree lake water starts it’s path; it’s a long time till the 75 degree water gets to the thermostat; and it’s probably warmer than 75 by then. The thermostat is pretty much the last thing that 75 degree water sees before it gets left behind.

WhiteLakeSkier wrote: that makes no sense. the water being that meets the thermostat is cold as well. the af is cold too. why would it close just when af hits it

I get lost on this one; but again; starts cold; gets warm; stays warm; gets a little warmer; exits thermostat; goes back to the lake; lake gives me a little more cold water.

SNobsessed wrote: Quite the discussion. If I was a marine mechanic, I would take out the drain plugs. That way you are conforming to the manufacturer's service guidelines. Always best to follow the rules when liability comes into play. If the plugs were rusted in or stripped (common, I am sure), that would be a great repair opportunity to make some extra money.

It’s mentioned in the other thread about Winterizing; but a generous dollop of; no-seize, anti-seize, or never-seize on the plugs of all kinds makes next year’s job just that much easier.

Hollywood wrote: Sweet.

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah! I was hoping that no one else had to sit through that.

lonestar wrote: Ive decided to bury my boat at a minimum of 36" below the surface of the driveway to insure im below the frost line for this area. Im just waiting on a soil sample to decide if I should leave the cover on or not ?

Store the cover in the garage. It will be fine. Don’t forget to use a good pre-emergent and dig it up in early Spring; or you will be pulling little fiber-weeds all Summer long.



And; if you think I’m saying anything on this thread about how I winterize my boat; you’re nuts.

joe_schindler wrote: Well; as the new guy here; let’s see just how many folks I can torque off: And; if you think I’m saying anything on this thread about how I winterize my boat; you’re nuts.

Oh no!! Not another one!!

All I can say is if you follow the recommended procedure (pour in) then you won't have to worry about the T stat and it sure would have made this thread shorter!!

Joe,
If I haven't already mentioned it, welcome to CCfan. Stick around as I feel you have allot to contribute to the site.

Bwahahahaha, I just read this whole thread and blew diet coke through my nose on my keyboard.... Thanks a lot... Now I just sold all my boats so I don't have to ask how to winterize them. Hope you're happy...

Moj'

So, dudes, as I'm draining the water and gettin' that AF100 ready, do I hold my finger on or off the bong's carburetor?

You guys crack me up! I laughed my a$$ off reading the last page of all this stuff.

This is a great group of folks having tons of fun brought together by a bunch of old boats. Too bad some people take it way too seriously.


ssssssssssssstt....eeeeeer man!

I am literally at a loss for words

A real question now, lets keep this one mature boys. Did the ASkier come with foam in the floors? I have no foam and the wood is solid. I cannot decide if they have been replaced or not. However, the fiberglass is peeling away from the wood in some places. Not a good sign I know.

The 1960 American Skiers difinately did not have foam.

Larry, you have a very understanding wife.

   Fastest bed in the Nor'east right there. What, no orange CCF stripe on the comforter, Larry ??

    Mike

   

Thoughts on anything other than stabilizer if I'm keeping her in a heated shop?

jbear wrote: Now I know what the lump was in the bed up at Buffalo's house a few weeks ago.

That was the 10-18. I'm getting the Pumpkin ready to put on the porch for Halloween!

WhiteLakeSkier wrote: A real question now, lets keep this one mature boys. Did the ASkier come with foam in the floors? I have no foam and the wood is solid. I cannot decide if they have been replaced or not. However, the fiberglass is peeling away from the wood in some places. Not a good sign I know.

No the Atom did not come with foam in the floors. Non of the wood boats did and even the early glass didn't have it ether.

The glass is peeling off the wood because it was put on as a "quick and dirty" repair/patch job for a bad hull. Glassing a wood hull unless done properly, very carefully and preferably with new wood and epoxy is the "kiss of death" for the boat. It actually will speed up the deterioration of the wood by promoting rot.

The glass has got to come off and now most likely the hull will need a new ply skin. Post some pictures. (start a new thread too)

Pete, I think he's talking about an American Skier.

The early fiberglass boats had foam as an option. I will not refoam a boat either. And pool noodles qualify as foam. Even though the noodles don't absorb water, they trap it and block air circulation. Any kind of foam is very, very bad, except maybe in a brand new, all fiberglass boat, and even they trap water, so who knows in another 10 years maybe we'll be seeing people tear into '94 and up boats that have big problems. The jury is still out on those.