Prop shaft strut bearings

Kerry,
I really don't think many people get that puller to remove the old cutlass bearing. I as well as most will cut them out by using a hack saw. Put the blade through the shaft bore and assemble it on the saw frame. Doesn't take much cutting.

I haven't heard of any advantages of the two piece bearing design. I feel the engineering concept is to get the forward section as far forward in the strut as possible to reduce possible prop shaft whip. I'd just go with the standard 4".

Yes, the coupling removal from the shaft can be a challenge. The bore to the shaft is a interference fit so a puller is needed or most will use the "spacer and long bolt trick". This is a old sketch showing long bolts but threaded rod is even better - you just keep running the nuts up instead of having to change to shorter bolts!



Now, if you do take on this job, (we'll be here to help) and you find the coupling to be loose on the shaft, then you have fretted the coupling/shaft due to running with it misaligned. A new coupling and possibly a new shaft is needed. BTW, with the shaft out, it's a great time to check it for straightness.

Getting the coupling back on the shaft requires the coupling to be heated so it expands. This PITA is why the double taper ARE shaft/coupling systems are so popular! (easier to remove too!)

Keep us informed.

I tried a bolt puller and beating the heck out with an air hammer. The only thing that worked like a charm was the long bolt with the socket in between. Make sure you adjust the bolts evenly. I had an impact gun set in the lowest setting. It speed up the process. After that and finding my shaft was bent I bought an ARE.

slalomjunky wrote: 8122pbrainard, thanks for the info. I understand the spacer and long bolts. Is the spacer pushing against the trans shaft or is that half of the coupling solid and the spacer is pushing against the coupling only? any problem cutting into the strut while cutting the bushing? My experience with doing this type of operation is that the saw blade has just enough deflection to cut at each end and not as much in the middle of the 4in bushing. after cutting what are you using to push out bearing?

I just went though this. On the trans side, that half of the coupling is bolted in with a giant bolt. At least it is on my PCM PP trans. It's tough to avoid cutting into the strut but a little bite into the strut bore won't hurt anything.

I have a puller I made...

I will lend it out if you want.



Tim

Kerry,
I've used Go2 several times without any problems. They seem to carry all the good brands at very good prices.

Yes, That's the traditional cutlass bearing you found.

As far as the time it will take you to do the job, that's a tough one! There are too many variables. To R&R the shaft will take the time. 2 hours to all day??

Are you planning on putting your old shaft back in? Do check the shaft fit to the coupling and check the shaft for straightness. The best way is with the shaft set in V blocks and then a dial indicator.

Now, strut/shaft/log/engine alignment?? When you get the shaft out and before you start cutting out the bearing, take a look at the wear pattern on the ID of the bearing. It's a good indicator of a bent or misaligned strut.

Eric,
makes sense to cut at that position but definitely a little harder to see and apply the right amount of pressure. Are you first cutting out the rubber portion to be able to get a good look at the brass and not to bind the blade?
Pete,
I understand that usual wear is on the bottom. do you realign like this or try to correct to have more even wear? What is the best way to move engine? Rear mounts do have threaded height adjustment but not lateral. I have never hit anything, no dings in prop at all ever. Should i still be worried about bent hardware? shaft should go through the direct center of shaft log correct? How is adjustment made for this if it is off? the waterseal and hose which hold it will be basically alignining the shaft from the strut to the log. I can't see how this can be changed much, rather engine has to be moved to align, corrrect? am I missing something? thanks Kerry

Kerry,
     If you can while you have the shaft out check the aligment. My strut was bent and the shaft was straight except at the end. This how I checked it using an almost V-block: shaft aligment

Good luck

the last one i did didnt budge with heat and the tool, it started to mushroom the bearing,
i always atempt with the tool first but always end up with the saw, once in a while they will slide right out with the tool....then that means the new one slides in loose and get out the locktight

The brass wall thickness of the cutlass being very thin (.040 to .050??) it really doesn't give much of a surface for the puller plate to grab. If there is any corrosion between the strut and cutlass and or burrs from the set screws it sure makes pulling them a challenge. I've even had issues with getting the set screws loose. They are a shallow socket head and not much bite for the allen wrench. At least the allens are better than the early slotted soft brass ones!!

If the puller works, great! If not then saw it out. I personally feel sawing is quicker. Defiantly if you have the Sawsall.

behindpropeller wrote: I have a threaded puller, not a slide hammer like ARE sells. I did put the new one in with red loctite....hope I never need to get it out!!! Tim

WELL that doesn't sound too bright since it's a service item and will need replaced again at some time.

Alignment by Eric.. Good reading

Alignment

I am about to begin doing some maintenance stuff on the Mustang.
- Shaft and rudder packing, as I take on a little water.
- steering cable
- cleaning up the wiring
- cutlass bearing, and alignment
and a few other little items.

I looked at the cutlass bearing last night, and it is perhaps half (maybe less) worn just on the bottom end and fine the rest of the way around. The propshaft spins freely from the prop and from the trans coupler with hardly any effort at all. The coupler is perfectly aligned all the way around.

My question is; Do I really need to replace the cutlass bearing in that condition? I already have it, and the threaded rod to make a puller, so cost is no issue. When is it required ?

PS:   Pete, thanks for the diagram!!

Thanks Pete. I will look and the fore part of the shaft with a mirror this weekend. I have an very teeny vibration, but suspect the propeller after inspecting it. I want to learn to do this stuff, but not if there is no reason to. I can always do it later. It turns so freely that i have to question whether it needs it.
I have a second question about the packing. I had bought a length of 3/16 Gore-tex packing. Is this correct for the 1" shaft on a Mustang/289?    Can I also, get a brief explanation on how to to the shaft and rudder packing? I think I have it figured out, but....

When I say freely, it is not "loose" just doesn't take more than light pressure to spin it. And it is smooth turning as well. There is no play in the bearing either.

I will call and get the 1/4 going.

thanks

gcarbone wrote: Besides being able to move the prop shaft up and down and side to side while its in the trailer - are there any performance symptoms when the boat is in the water to help determine if you need a new cutlass bearing?

A worn cutlass will cause vibration as well but vibration can also come from a bad shaft and or prop. Out of the water inspection is best.