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    Posted: January-23-2010 at 10:34pm
I've started disassembling the Universal Flexifour I won on ebay today. Due to a Flexifour brochure I also won on ebay, I was able to confirm a interesting "T" handle on the engine. It's a built in oil sump pump!! Nice feature back in 1927 but, you didn't get much life out of the oil back then so frequent oil changes were needed.



Notice the small vertical wire on the pumps left. The flag is broken off but that's the oil level indicator. The sheet metal piece behind the wire is a graduated scale. There's a float on the bottom of the wire.

Well, I've got to get the block and head checked for cracks. The # 3 cylinder and the same head chamber are pretty rusty. The rest of the engine looks to be very low hour. Looking at the cylinder walls, there's hardly any ring ridge plus the cam shows absolutely no wear!! (ZDDP back then? you bet zinc goes way back!!!) I suspect water in the # 3 was the reason this engine was pulled. I can't see any obvious signs of a blown head gasket but hope I'm wrong. Sure would be nice for it to turn out to be just the gasket and not a crack!!







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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-23-2010 at 10:46pm
That looks like a neat project! What kind of boat do you have in mind if you can get her running?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-23-2010 at 11:05pm
Keegan,
It's about a 1918 18' launch. The exact year isn't known but I have some pictures of the boat in 1919-20 plus know the history. The manufacturer is also unknown but I hope I'll find a indication when I start it's restoration. Cool Nav. lights on it - kerosene as the boat didn't have electric. Magneto and hand crank. Also a search light that originally was carbide - like the old miners hat/lamp. It's in pretty bad shape due to age. The brass is very brittle and cracked. I'm going to have to turn new wood plugs for new brass housing pieces to be spun.
There's a full size picture of the engine in this thread


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-23-2010 at 11:32pm
What a neat piece of boating history!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-24-2010 at 1:56am
Pete, good chance that motor don't know what zinc is,depending when it was used last,I found this doing a google search

ZDP was first added to engine oil to control copper/lead bearing corrosion. Oils with a phosphorus level in the 0.03% range passed a corrosion test introduced in 1942.

In the mid-1950s, when the use of high-lift camshafts increased the potential for scuffing and wear, the phosphorus level contributed by ZDP was increased to the 0.08% range.

In addition, the industry developed a battery of oil tests (called sequences), two of which were valve-train scuffing and wear tests.

A higher level of ZDP was good for flat-tappet valve-train scuffing and wear, but it turned out that more was not better. Although break-in scuffing was reduced by using more phosphorus, longer-term wear increased when phosphorus rose above 0.14%. And, at about 0.20% phosphorus, the ZDP started attacking the grain boundaries in the iron, resulting in camshaft spalling.

By the 1970s, increased antioxidancy was needed to protect the oil in high-load engines, which otherwise could thicken to a point where the engine could no longer pump it. Because ZDP was an inexpensive and effective antioxidant, it was used to place the phosphorus level in the 0.10% range.

However, phosphorus is a poison for exhaust catalysts. So, ZDP levels have been reduced over the last 10-15 years. It's now down to a maximum of 0.08% for Starburst oils. This was supported by the introduction of modern ashless antioxidants that contain no phosphorus.

Much like our IH Cub engines,low spring pressure,low compression and low rpm's make them run on just about anything forever. I gas up the one on the right once a year to plow snow,never draining it or running the carb dry.These are 60 cubic inch and 13 horses at the draw bar @ 1600 to 1800 rpm depending on what year.What spec's does yours have?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-24-2010 at 10:26am
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

Pete, good chance that motor don't know what zinc is,depending when it was used last,I found this doing a google search

These are 60 cubic inch and 13 horses at the draw bar @ 1600 to 1800 rpm depending on what year.What spec's does yours have?


Gary,
You're correct that I shouldn't have stated "ZDDP" (Zinc dithiophosphates) but rather just said zinc. I'm going by what our specialty lubricant supplier here at the plant told me during a conversation about ZDDP and zinc. He's been in the lube business all his life and took it over from his dad who actually took it over from his dad. (family business) At the turn of the century, it was common to add powdered zinc to any oil where a extreme pressure additive was needed. High end motor oils where one of the applications. Whether this engine saw it or not is in question but, there's hardly any wear. I'll get the crank out and be able to see more but right now I can't detect any loose bearings. I need to make a run to Napa for some Plastigauge!!

Regarding the specs, I was able to "nail down" more when I got the specific brochure. Universal actually made 3 different series/engines they called the Flexifour through all the years. This one is the second generation block and has a bore and stroke of 2 & 5/8" x 4" making it 86.5 cubes. HP is only 20 at 2500 red line. (later versions were the higher HP's) Nothing about the CR but it does state it will run on any gas so back then it would have been "white" gas plus with the low HP, the CR has got to be real low. (time to mill the head!!!)

Interesting that they also made a fuel oil/kerosene version. Special manifolds were added to pre heat both the combustion air and the fuel. The engine had a small quart tank of gas and it was started on the gas until it warmed up. Then a 3 way valve was switched over to the oil and it was run through the same carb.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-24-2010 at 11:58am
Gary,
It takes 7/8" threaded spark plugs. I understand that lots of old tractors used them.

Reid,
Did you happen to notice the color of the engine paint???!!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Waterdog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-24-2010 at 12:01pm
Pete,
I bought an old Continental 6cyl. stationary engine. Were they ever used in boats? It was a back-up in a water plant and only has 80 hrs. on the meter.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-24-2010 at 12:10pm
Amazing, 20hp in 4 cylinders and 86 Cubes...I've got more than that in my single cylinder lawn tractor!

Make sure you keep us updated on this Pete, I certain it will be interesting along the rebuild. Are you starting the hull any time soon or it that for the golden years.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-24-2010 at 12:11pm
Originally posted by Waterdog Waterdog wrote:

Pete,
I bought an old Continental 6cyl. stationary engine. Were they ever used in boats?


Andy,
Yes, Graymarine marinized Continental blocks. Chris Craft used the Hercules blocks.

Nice find. What are you going to do with it? Do you know the year of the engine/pump?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-24-2010 at 12:15pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Gary,
It takes 7/8" threaded spark plugs. I understand that lots of old tractors used them.


Our cubs use the same plugs Pete. We used to get them at Farm & Fleet,but not sure now,there is very little of "farm or fleet" left there. We use Champion D16's for normal use,D21's are used by some but it is a hotter plug. Napa will be your best bet,as you know. Are the pistons cast iron too? It always seems funny to find them now days.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-24-2010 at 12:36pm
[QUOTE=81nautique] Amazing, 20hp in 4 cylinders and 86 Cubes...I've got more than that in my single cylinder lawn tractor![/QUOT

I know your laughing Alan,but it's all marketing. The low boy above in my pic is a '59 and it's motor has never been opened. The other one a '49 has been rebuilt in the early 60's when my Dad bought it.It regularly mowed 10 acres for 5 years before being brought home. Our neighbor must have gone thru 5 garden tractors on their lawn in the same time frame. Much like those cast iron lumps in our boats,those old engines will last forever
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-24-2010 at 12:42pm
Originally posted by 81nautique 81nautique wrote:

Amazing, 20hp in 4 cylinders and 86 Cubes...I've got more than that in my single cylinder lawn tractor!


Yes but with the 4" stroke, the torque has got to be pretty high! If I remember correctly, the prop that came on the launch is a 16" dia.!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-24-2010 at 1:34pm
Beleive me Gary , I'm just laughing. The only reason I have a new mower is because I threw a rod through the side of the block a few years ago on my old. Oil filter losened from vibration, lost all the oil and it blew, the trail of oil was about 20' long so I only had about 10 seconds to figure out there was a problem and react. These toys only hold about a quart and a half, they are pretty much disposable. I like the old cast iron.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-24-2010 at 1:41pm
just last week, i was replacing a pair of cams on a VTEC, what a set-up that is...anyways he had a MSD box on this thing and i had my left hand on the dizzy trying to get it close to time. i set my right hand on the valve cover and it threw me back about 5 feet. the only reason im bringing this up is because im sitting here with a small hole in my left hand and a burn mark...it went right thru my heart. fck that hurt. that thing throws lightning bolts for spark
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Waterdog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-24-2010 at 1:59pm
I was going to power a hyd. pump for a large log splitter. I got a smaller log splitter, so the engine is up for a new home. Pictures don't do it justice thou.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-24-2010 at 2:51pm
I'm at work today waiting for Com Ed to do a power shut down for maintenance so I've been scouting out the maintenance supply room. I found a case of both Magnaflux "spotcheck" red and "developer" white. I don't ever recall seeing it being used here and wonder if anyone has. No real instructions on the can but am assuming both are used. Which one do you spray on first? Red or white? I figure I can do some preliminary crack checking on the Flexifour block and head. How clean does it have to be?

BTW, this Com Ed thing has become a real joke! The outage was scheduled for last Tuesday because they woudn't do it on a weekend. We had everyone stay home loosing a days production but they never did the maintenance. (broken cross arm on a pole) Well, it turned out that one of their fresh out of school EE's who surveyed the scope of work didn't notice one of the main disconnects on the pole was on the wrong side meaning they would need to shut down the power to a residential high rise behide us. I guess they don't care about shutting down our power but do care about the high rise!! Now because I wouldn't go for another work day shut down, it's back to a weekend!! Plus, due to the switch on the wrong side they have to do it hot because of the high rise and a special crew to do it hot. At least it's only a 7.2KV line!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brady Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-24-2010 at 3:49pm
Pete I seem to remember reading about the magnaflux procedure fairly recently (last 3-4 months), but for the life of me I can't remember where. It had to be iether this forum or work???
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brady Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-24-2010 at 3:57pm
Pete I just googled magnaflux spotcheck and found all the info you should need.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-24-2010 at 5:26pm
After looking at about 12 sites on the Magnaflux, I was finally able to find the procedure. First, the surface does need to be cleaned. The red dye is sprayed on first, allowed to dry somewhat and then wiped off. This red dye will penetrate any cracks. Then the white developer is sprayed on. It's a solvent and talc solution. It will draw out the red dye left in the crack and will show up as red.

Some more disassembly and I'll give it a try.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-24-2010 at 5:52pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:


I guess they don't care about shutting down our power but do care about the high rise!!


They will get more complaints at the call center Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-24-2010 at 6:41pm
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:


I guess they don't care about shutting down our power but do care about the high rise!!


They will get more complaints at the call center Pete


Gary,
I'm back home now. They didn't show up today! I understand they had a major line go down that feeds Loyola University hospital. I can understand that they certainly would have priority but no phone call. I ended up having to get a hold of our account rep myself!! Sounds like some other company that hangs wires on poles!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-24-2010 at 9:35pm
The thing that gets me is the higher ups will sit there with a straight face and tell you in the crew meetings that customer service is imporant. To them it is if your not waisting any time doing it! We are supposed to go to 1 hour lunches in March.Their reasoning is then we'll be there till 5 when they stop taking uverse repairs for the same day ??? Well anyway good luck Pete,I don't know anyone there and their even more independent than our place.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-24-2010 at 9:57pm
Pete, if i remember correctly, you have a stand-by because of the 2000 crash.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brady Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-25-2010 at 9:13am
Eric,

Pete has a standby at the cabin,where power delivery is unreliable. He is talking about the plant where he works
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-25-2010 at 9:19am
Originally posted by eric lavine eric lavine wrote:

Pete, if i remember correctly, you have a stand-by because of the 2000 crash.


Yes I do but the back up is up north were it's needed more. It ran for 7 hours between Christmas and New Years while Wisconsin Public Service traced the problem to a pad mounted transformer.

The planed outage yesterday that never happened was down here at the plant. BTW, we'd need a pretty large generator here for a back up. At peak production (not lately!) we run about 1.5 megs.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-25-2010 at 10:37am
better get the Amish crew to run faster on the belt
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-13-2010 at 10:11pm
I have been making some headway on the Flexifour but certainly not without problems. Basically the major issue is not being able to rotate anything to get to certain parts for disassembly. I now think this engine spent some time under water.

The crank pilot bearing is frozen on the inside of the trans planetary so I couldn't get the trans off.



Here I've pulled the main and rod caps to see if I could pull it off along with the crank. That didn't work! The power take off/hand crank shaft was the next problem. The shaft outputs forward through the block casting and aft through the trans casting preventing the two from comming apart. No room on the forward side to get a puller on the magneto coupling half and on the aft end is a pin for the hand crank. Two holes are provided in the casting to drive the pin out but remember nothing rotates and of course the pin is in the wrong position!!

Four bolt mains but take a look at the size of the rods. A Briggs 5HP's are bigger!!



I went after the magneto coupling with a brass drift and got it to the point where I could get a puller on it. The tail end of the trans came off so next is digging into the trans planetary and take a look at the pilot bearing.





Two pistons are loose and I'll work on the other two. I want to get the magnafux spray on the block and head to check for cracks befor moving to far forward.

Rod and main bearings do have some light scoring but depending on what the plastigauge says I'd be inclinded to leave them. Absolutely no scoring on cam lobes or lifters!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2010 at 3:07am
Great pics. This thread is an engine history lesson for us young bucks. Great stuff Pete- Thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2010 at 12:09pm
Pete, This where I'd load the crank up and drive to the machine shop, nothing like damaging a one of a kind item.

Just 2 firing positions 180 degrees out makes that stroke look like a lot more than 4". And am I just seeing 2 main caps? Nothing between the #2 & 3 cylinder? Interesting thread, keep the pictures coming.

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