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Grand Poobah
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    Posted: February-15-2010 at 11:59am
We are now proud owners of Wisconsin Northwoods lakefront property. I have not seen our actual shoreline yet since it's under ice and snow, but sat photos and snapshots show a gradual sand shoreline/bottom that may or may not taper off very quickly after a dozen or so yards. Max lake depth is ~15 feet.

I'd like a lift with a canopy and we have no dock at this time. I know nothing about dock building/buying or lifts. Tell me everything. Everything.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote emccallum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2010 at 12:13pm
Congrats on the new lake property! What kind of docks are allowed? What regs do you have? Does the water level vary a lot?
Where I am we can only have floating docks. I have a two bay covered dock with a sun deck on top. One bay has an ACE cradle lift for the SN. The other is open. The sky is the limit, unless the local gvt has their own limit!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2010 at 12:42pm
Joel,
I suggest a cedar pier. The very best is Randy's in 3L's. He buys Canadian White RS by the semi load and mills it all himself. Decking is even screwed down! True craftmanship and really not that expensive compared to a purchased metal pier even with a 20 to 25 year life expectancy. BTW, just to give you a idea of Randy's workmanship, he builds cedar strip canoes and rowing shells in the winter!!

Current regs I believe are 4' max width and 150 sq. ft. max at the end "T" or "L". Max. length is determined by water depth. As long as needed till you have 36" of water. The DNR never checks out the piers UNLESS, someone builds a "deck size" pier out over the water!!!!!! Then they are nailed to the cross!!!

Lifts? Start calling the marinas in the area and as mentioned, start getting the Vilas County News and look in the classifieds. The only problem if you find one out of the paper will be transportation. You'll need to rent a trailer. A pontoon trailer works great. Unbolt the front or rear lift cross member and slip the trailer under the cradle. Crank up and bolt the crossmember back on for transport.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote harddock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2010 at 12:44pm
Look at Floe for a lift. All the major brands are good but Floe had some features I really like. S.S hardware, 24v screwjack lift system. (quick, quiet) screwjack adjustable legs (easily leveling). Nice canopy.

As for docks, I like aluminum. Lightweight and stable.(especially if configired in a L or T, some have deck choices. (Shoremaster). Try to get s.s. fasteners. I am not a fan of floaters, and actually get hotter than a legged dock. ven those plastic floaters get real hot. The leg in the water acts like a spoon in a coffee cup helping to cool the deck. You can carpet an aluminum deck.

If you are going to horseshoe the dock around a lift make sure the docks are long enough going across the lift. (some docks come 10'and some lifts are wider) and get a lift with more capacity then you need as your next boat might be bigger.
The lift is on 5 seasons and those aluminum docks are going on 21 years and still like new. The little solar panel charges both batteries and one charge per seaon works for mine.

If you need to take your boat out of the water for a bad storm, take the canopy fabric off as well. In a strong wind a caonpied lift without a boat on it will move and even flip.

Also notice my bimini is up while on the lift with good clearance, howeber the fly high has to be removed but my canopy is at its lowest position, Get at least 24' canopy for a 20' boat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2010 at 12:52pm
I like ShoreStation lifts. I built my own dock 12 years ago. I have 14 sections. 10' x 3'. I go out 80 feet, over 20 to a 10x9 platform, and I have a slip for the SuperAir lift. I get my brackets from ACME Foundry in Mpls. I have a dealer account and get about 70% off. Three 2x6 stringers, and 5/4 deck planking for the top. All said my cost was $110 per section at the time.
It is a pain in the ass for three hours in the spring, and one hour in the fall. The rest of the time it is great!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2010 at 2:12pm
Joel,
I get the print version of the news paper so I don't normally go to the on line version. They do have the classifieds there too. I however didn't see any adds for lifts. Maybe it's too early in the season?

Homemade piers have a tendency to be heavy as Mike referred too because typically you use treated and the cast corners for pipe legs. It's a strong pier but be prepared for needing several strong people for install/removal!! I let Randy install/remove the pier he built for me and he does it himself!!! My other pier on the lake accross the road is a second hand non Randy's cedar pier that my wife and I handle ourselves. 4' x 8' sections. BTW, the decking on it is nailed and every spring I need to drive the nails back in!! Of course you can always leave them and see if one of the girls gets her swim suit bottom hooked doing a sitting dock start!!!!

Purchased piers with aluminum or plastic/composite decking will be hot as mentioned. They are however very light but most with their removable deck sections do take more time to install/remove.

Permanent is the other way to go but now you're talking DNR permits and bigger money for the pile driver. Pilings can be jetted in by hand but they don't last with the winter ice unless you're in a relatively sheltered cove or bay.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2010 at 2:28pm
Joel,

Congrats on the new place!!

The Floe Lifts are really nice as Kevin mentioned, they have a unit with plastic tires on the lower member and retractable feet that raise so you can roll the lift in and out, awesome feature that does come with a hefty price tag last time I checked.

Shorestation makes a great unit, all aluminum, easy to crank, big feet, easy to find parts, usually in the mid price range.

If you want to see either brand up close my lift/canopy is a Shorestation and my neighbor has a Floe.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote harddock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2010 at 2:35pm
Joel, you also didn't mention access to your waterfront. If you have to remove these items for winter and can do it right up your beach, great but if you need to traverse a seawall or need to float stuff over to an area to remove and transport back to your property for the winter, well that has to be taken into consideration.

I have a boat ramp right on my property and I have a between the tubes crankup pontoon trailer. I am able to get the trailer under my boatlift and easily pull it out. Then I raise the legs on my dock sections and float them up onto the trailer and haul them over to where they sit for winter. The whole process is time consuming but Myself and 8 year old Blake get it done in a couple hours. (no heavy lifting)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2010 at 2:47pm
Kevin,
Originally posted by M3Fan M3Fan wrote:

We are now proud owners of Wisconsin Northwoods lakefront property.


Joel has lake front footage and no seawall. They aren't permitted by the DNR. They are strict on this one. Maybe some old railroad ties that the PO through down before the days of tight control. Spingtime will tell. Rocking a shoreline needs a permit and then even the rock size and placement is checked!! I happen to agree with the DNR on this one. Nothing spoils the natural shoreline like a steel, concrete or whatever seawall!! Ballasted wake boats and the shoreline damage they cause will be banned before the DNR would allow seawalls!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M3Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2010 at 2:51pm
I like the idea of a non-heavy dock. The 2x6 treated docks at the ski club are total backbreakers to put in and remove every season. The cedar docks seem to be worth a look, for sure. Are the legs/supports cedar as well?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2010 at 2:58pm
Joel, Yes the legs are Cedar too. I'm on year 14 with my cedar and it's showing no signs of problems.

Did the agent tell you what kind of bottom you have? If on the mucky (Loon sh*t) side, then larger pads on the leg bottoms are used.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2010 at 2:59pm
Joel, congrats on the waterfront purchase!

Cedar and aluminum sure do make for beautiful docks, but boy are they expensive! How you want to proceed will highly depend on your budget. We've built our own docks out of wood for a long time- its relatively cheap and easy to do, plus theyre light enough for 2 people to put in and take out. Theyre basically 8-10' sections framed with 2x6's and covered with 5/4 decking material. The supports are 4x4 posts framed together with 2x4's. Im sure you have a lot of options in WI for prebuilt stuff if you want to go that way (and maybe its not as pricey as it is here) but let me know if you want more info on how we've done ours.

For lifts, we've migrated towards 12V hydraulic lifts. Very fast raise/lower compared to electric- I actually prefer a manual lift over the 110vac my dad had for a while. We have Nyman/Basta but see what's readily available in your area for used. WI seems to be the boat lift capital of the world so you should have a lot of options! Sunstream builds a very nice product but $$$.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2010 at 3:21pm
I'm with Tim on building your own. We bought the floats from Menards, in the end I probably would have shopped around for something better. We basically built three floating sections (two fingers and an end) with a ramp to the shore and can unbolt them and pull them out with the boat and a trailer in the winter.


Much cheaper than the 10k we were quoted by L&N docks here in IA.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M3Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2010 at 3:22pm
Cheap would be good. Plus, we're handy, so I'll take all the dock building details I can get. I'll shop around as well, but I like what I see with your homebrewed solution there Tim. I'm warming up to that red/khaki color combo, btw.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2010 at 3:23pm
As far as a lift....we've had a Floe for 10 years now and can't complain. Everyone else on the lake has a shore station and I'm not satisfied with their canopies. Seems to be very little protection compared to our FLOE.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 92ccc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2010 at 3:38pm
If your shorline is steeper you can use a deicer($550.00) and leave all your docks and lifts in place for the winter,they are inexpensive to run on a timer.Ihave left all three boat lifts in and docks all winter for six years now with no problems.My place is on the Eagle River chain in Eagle river.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote harddock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2010 at 3:55pm
The wooden docks can be built with removable decking which lightens up the load for install/rmovale. I had some with cedar fence posts mounted outboard of the frame with firing strips as a bumper which worked well. nut even with the decking removed were a four man operation. They were 4x16, 4x10 wold lighten them up.

Craigslist may have some used lifts and they usually fit on snowmopbile trailers to transport. You also need to consider if you have room for a cantaliver or straight vertical lift. Canatlievers will pull the boat foward about 3 feet.


Do our homework, weigh all the pros and cons and you should be pleased with the end results.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 92ccc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2010 at 4:00pm
I had problems with my cantilever lift for my 92SN,it was very fussy on water depth placement,when placed too shallow could not get on the lift,when placed deep enough the boat just barely comes out of the water,the newer lifts have cross members that are bent in the middle to accomodate inboards with tracking fins.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2010 at 4:14pm
Originally posted by 92ccc 92ccc wrote:

If your shorline is steeper you can use a deicer($550.00) and leave all your docks and lifts in place for the winter,they are inexpensive to run on a timer.Ihave left all three boat lifts in and docks all winter for six years now with no problems.My place is on the Eagle River chain in Eagle river.


Tony,
How many "ice outs" have you seen? 6 years? The ice around the shore line will typically go first and then the large ice left in the middle of the lake is known to blow back and forth depending on the wind direction. It took out brand new cribs on my boat house one year. The whole thing ended up sitting on the lake bottom. Thankfully my boats weren't in it for storage that year because of the crib work being done. Do you really want to take that chance? I feel you have been lucky unless you're on one of the channels between the lakes. Aeration is typical for permanent piers/boat houses and then in late winter it's turned off so the ice will reform offering some protection from that big ice "floe" from blowing back in.

My shoreline is steep. 18 steps directly from the pier to the top of the hill. Pier sections are stacked on a rack built on the slope and the lift is winched into the trees.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote emccallum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2010 at 4:18pm
I never realized you guys have to remove your docks in the winter! Wow, I thought pressure washing mine in the spring was a pain! I have built several docks over the years, and I find screws are the only way to go. If you predrill the holes prior to screwing, it will keep the wood from cracking for a lot longer. Especially with the decking boards. Also, the new composite boards tend to get hotter (might be a good thing for you guys up North) and I have seen them warp when used as railing, if they arent well supported.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 92ccc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2010 at 5:00pm
I am on the Eagle River up past Eagle River Marine(Heckels)I have seen the ice do damage on the lakes,from what I ahve seen it is the ice at the shore that heaves and damages docks and lifts,I have never seen the ice from the middle blow to shore and damage stuff,interesting!I have had a lake houise longer than six years,only the last six with boat lifts.My other place was on a lake not a channel,my dad has experienced this problem on the same lake when he left his dock in one year,but it was the ice that left the shore that caused the damage.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2010 at 5:42pm
Originally posted by 92ccc 92ccc wrote:

I am on the Eagle River up past Eagle River Marine(Heckels)I have seen the ice do damage on the lakes,from what I ahve seen it is the ice at the shore that heaves and damages docks and lifts,I have never seen the ice from the middle blow to shore and damage stuff,interesting!I have had a lake houise longer than six years,only the last six with boat lifts.My other place was on a lake not a channel,my dad has experienced this problem on the same lake when he left his dock in one year,but it was the ice that left the shore that caused the damage.


Tony,
Now I remember where you are. Sorry but I know we even talked about it before!! You are pretty well protected in that area but I would still pull docks and lifts but that's just me. I've just seen to much damage over the years - even "permanent" piers/boat houses.

Permanent pilings suffer from frost heave and it's the reason for the aeration. The shallower the piling the worse the heave because of the frost depth. When you aereate, you are preventing the bottom of the lake from freezing by keeping the warmer unfrozen water around the pilings. Charlie's (Brady) boat house that just went though a re piling last winter was constantly heaving towards the shore. It's a good example when areation isn't used. Besides moving the whole boat house back several feet through the years, the rear pilings needed to be cut every several years. some of those pilings where only 6' long down from the original 20'!!! BTW, the boat house is now aerated!

You do put up warning barriers around the open water don't you? There is a law about it. That's a PITA alone!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2010 at 6:37pm
Just remember to take them out a couple weeks BEFORE you plan to take them out. We got stuck on a business trip this fall so the toon is staying out on the lift this winter!! I've seen it done before and we're at the end of a cove so we don't see any ice shifting but not the ideal place to keep a boat all winter!!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2010 at 6:38pm
This was me trying to break my way to the end of the cove....I made it about 20 ft
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2010 at 6:45pm
Originally posted by storm34 storm34 wrote:

This was me trying to break my way to the end of the cove....I made it about 20 ft


Chris,
Don't worry if it happens again. We'll get Mike down there to free it up!

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Yes but you're building the "Scandinavian ice breaker/ski boat"!!!! Pretty soon you'l need to change the title of this thread!


Originally posted by WakeSlayer WakeSlayer wrote:

The Norwegian Crusher!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2010 at 7:01pm
Haha...don't let him get any ideas...remember this guy?

ice breaker!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brady Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2010 at 9:04pm
Joel
Where did you buy?
Charlie
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M3Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2010 at 9:30pm
Originally posted by Brady Brady wrote:

Joel
Where did you buy?


Eagle River
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RainDog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-16-2010 at 1:20am
I don't know if this would apply, Joel, but the best tip I received last year was to buy a gas engine driven pump to jet the pilings into the ground. Pete suggested it. I found a 3" trash pump on CraigsList for $40 with intake hose! Ran great after rebuilding the carb. Your welcome to borrow it when I'm done with it this spring if you want to swing by GL on the way to ER.

I put a 10' piece of rigid conduit with a nozzle created by smashing one end of the pipe.

Anyhow, I was sinking premade pilings and crossmembers into the earth about 6' without too much of a sweat. It worked great. I then set the decking sections between the pilings and on the crossmembers. I used 4x4 for pilings, 2x6's for crossmembers and framing for the decking and 5/4 for the deck. All pressure treated pine. Galvanized hardware lag screws and carriage bolts and SS deck screws for the decking. This is for a permanent pier in our mooring channel at Green Lake.

I also had good luck with finding my used aluminum ShoreStation on CraigsList. Found NOS canopy vinyl for $350 to boot and side guide on bunks for $100 separately. I was at least 1/2 price from new and the lift is only 5 years old.

Congrats on the lake house. My folks had a place on a channel between Catfish and Cranberry lakes for a few years. Fantastic boating. I hope you get up there frequently.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-16-2010 at 8:25am
Originally posted by M3Fan M3Fan wrote:

Originally posted by Brady Brady wrote:

Joel
Where did you buy?

Eagle River


Charlie,
It's not on the chain and of course I forgot what lake Joel bought on. Bass lake?? Joel??

Joel,
I know I asked my son if he had ever delivered a boat to the lake and he hadn't.

BTW, you're better off not being on the Eagle side of the chain!!! There are times when it's like boating the Fox chain!!


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