Transmission Mount - Nut Size?

Evening all,

Hope everyone had a good holiday. I need to tighten one of my transmission mount nuts. I don't have any wrenches over an inch. I am looking to buy one, but not exactly sure of the size.

Transmission is a PCM 1.23. I tried to measure it and came up with 1 5/8". It is close quarters back there and couldn't really get an accurate measurement. Would a picture help?

Thanks.

Need some guidance - more details on why I need a wrench.

A little embaraced that I spent all this time trying to make things better and seems like I made them worse.

Problem

After my alignment and oil change there was a very significant vibration from the prop shaft. So much so that it would stall out when putting it into gear (forward and reverse). It use to just do it in forward and figured my transmission was going, but now it is doing it in reverse too.

Notes

While at the ramp I ran the transmission with the coupler disconnect and it shifted very smoothly. Does this tell me anything?

When doing my alignment, I noticed one of the nuts on my transmission mount was loose. Here is a picture of it (not mine). For alignment adjustments, I could only move the front of the engine.

(Thinking of alignment is after the sturt..) I had to lift my prop shaft slightly more than expected to get it to fit the coupler. My thought is that maybe the transmission mount should be adjusted a little lower to better meet the coupler.

I have read on the following topics from this board to gather information:

1. Prop shaft being bent.
2. Bad strut bearing.
3. Strut alignment.
4. Transmission issues.
5. Worn damper plate.

Hope you don't mind my trival questions.

Thanks.

Sorry, thought my profile had the info. I guess I need to get a picutre so they can update it.

1989 Ski Nautique - 2001
351w 1100 hours - pcm 1.23

Any tricks for getting the hose off? I tried, but didn't see another way besides cutting it off.

Prop shaft has some resistance when turning while disengaged from the coupler, but can be turned by a few fingers.

For the prop shaft or strut, they are not visually bent. While checking my alignment any gap I had was stationary. Doesn't mean there not bent though.

Transmission does have a dirty neutral that seems to be getting worse.

If your gap between the couplers didnt move around when you spun the shaft, then it shouldn't be bent between the strut and coupler. Its possible that its bent aft of the coupler, but I would properly align it first. Your first attempt at alignment sounds like you made it worse instead of better.

Before starting, you need to grasp the concept of what youre trying to do... you want your powertrain (engine/transmission) to be perfectly aligned (position and angle) with the strut. The shaft must also clear through the shaft log without hitting. With a properly installed strut (assuming its not bent) then the shaft should be essentially centered in the log. You then will need to move the powertrain to match the position of the shaft where it spins freely. It sounds like you forced the shaft away from this position in order to bring it closer to where the engine/trans is currently sitting.

You need to break your rear mounts free so you can move the engine where it needs to go. Before struggling too long, pull the shaft log hose off and see how well the shaft is centered in it when it rotates cleanly. If its hitting the edge or way off center, then your shaft is probably bent. If its centered just fine, then move the engine to match that position and dial in the alignment to within .003" per Eric's instructions.

The fact that the engine is stalling when you put it in gear suggest that youre binding due to severe misalignment. You should be able to spin the prop with one finger with everything bolted together if its properly aligned.

how bad is the drag on the transmission? typically if you do have bad drag in forward and you put the transmission into reverse, at times it will stall the engine because in theory with warped forward plates the transmission will act as if it is locking up. its an 89 i see and in the early years of that tranmsission they did problems with the forward clutch drums cracking at the base allowing leakage and slipping

actually the firmer the shift the better shape the transmission is in, smooth lazy shifts are a sign of internal leakage

Thanks, it doesn't cost anything to investigate and it will be a good learning experience.

Just working my way around the boat, learning the basics.