'81 Ski Tique Stringer Job

after the new plywood floor is installed do you fiberglass it to the hull?

You may already know this, but if the floor was rotten and the foam was soaked (which seems to be a given since they were both removed) then Im sure the stringers contain some degree of rot. You would be best off replacing them.

The foam vs. no foam debate has been waged here before. There are pros and cons for each approach. That being said, I disagree with Roger- regardless of whether you foam or not, everything in your power should be done to waterproof all of your structure- both stringers and floor. A healthy dose of CPES/resin before installing, and then a healthy glass schedule over each of them.

I would recommend you read, read, read... lots of great threads covering stringer rebuilds here. Theres a lot of info regarding materials, methods, tools and other tips and tricks that may not get repeated. Arm yourself with information!

Edit: I reread your specific question and Roger's response and I think I understand what he's saying. His stance was that its not necessary to glass the floor panels to the stringers and hull sides if youre not trying to keep foam underneath it dry. I suppose that has some merit, as that is how the non-foamed boats from the 60's were built. I still disagree with that method though, as the Ski Tique hull (71+) was always built with glass over foam (and thus the floor tied the stringers and hull sides together) so I would recommend doing so when rebuilding, regardless of whether you foam or not. That is the method I plan to use on my '71 Skier rebuild (ply floor, no foam), which has the same hull.

Kent,
I agree with Tim that the floor should be glassed to the hull sides ether way you go. I'm a no foam guy and would go ply with plenty of CPES and glass on both sides. Epoxy resin of course!!

Just as Tim also mentioned, you will need to address the stringers as well. Do not go on the "the engine mount lag bolts don't turn in the stringer" method only. Now that you have purchased the boat, you need to dig further.

Keep the pictures coming!!

Yes I am doing a new full stringer structure, that will be entirely encased in glass. I was leaning toward glassing the floor to the hull, and now I'm sure that I will.

I was wondering the same thing Jody. Good eye!

Question...The area in the hull that is painted has a something that looks like bondo between the paint and the glass. do I need to grind this all out back to the reddish glass where new glass will be applied, or can I just grind it back to a fresh surface for the glass/

Wow 4 hours of grinding today and I'm about half done with the stringer area. Not looking forward to grinding out that filler all the way around the hull for the floor.

I did have to cut out the wood on the transom that the exhause and swim platform bracket bolt to. They were slightly rotted.

I removed and replaced my exhaust and rudder plates on my 67SN. I did not do the center of the transom as the test holes came out looking great. The stuff I did remove was ruined.

The Biax is difficult to work with but I think that it is important to
cover the stingers in a continuous sheet of biax for support and protection.
As for using a lot of epoxy, that is the case. But if you keep working the overage (runoff) back into the Biax it is not as much lost.

Ok sounds good, but that leads me to some other questions. Does the biax stop at the bottom of the stringer or should I wrap it down onto the hull as well? And do the secondy stringers get biax? If not what's recommended for those. Thanks.

I did the same thing as Roger. Each side of the stringer/hull connection got 12" biax tape, and then I wrapped the top of the mains with it. The secondary's only got it on the sides though- I figured no need to wrap the tops since they'll be sealed by the floor.

Read some of the stringer threads... personally, I wouldnt use any less than 3 layers of mat/cloth on a secondary. My last rebuild got 3 cloth + biax and I plan on reusing that schedule in the future.

Once your fillet is nice and smooth I would not mess with it till it is kicked. You can try to get your first layers of cloth on there before it is cured so that you still get a chemical bond though. I used a gallon ziploc with the corner cut out to pipe out a bead along the stringer, then shaped it by running the top round edge of a bondo spreader along the joint to create a nice smooth transition.

In this picture you can see where the main is filleted and the secondary is not.

kent,
Keegan and Brian are correct but don't expect any of the resin from the fillet is help saturate the first layer of glass.