Misc problems

1.) Do you mean your circulation pump (same location as a water pump in an automotive application) or your raw water pump (mounts of to the side)?
- If the Raw Water Pump: Do you do your own winterization? Is there a chance someone put it back together wrong? The raw water pump houses the impeller, which is often taken out for maintenance an winterization.

2.)Yup, an off center pump would chew up your belts, these are readily available from skidim and others. You shouldn't have to shim it though, and I don't think you could, something is not right... If the bearings in the pump are toasted, the pump can be rebuilt or replaced.

3.) Speedometers: Did you check that there are no obstructions. There's different ways to clear them, but stuff getting clogged in the pickups is the most common issue.

4.) Taking on water: There is no such thing as exhaust packing. Maybe they thought your exhaust outlet hole? Could be your drive-shaft packing or your rudder packing. There are many posts on this, also refer to the reference section and look for an oweners manual that would cover your boat

5.) Need more info:
-Is it cranking strong?
-Do you give it two good pumps to full throttle and back with the throttle/shift lever before attempting to start?
-Is it more of a problem hot or cold? If more a cold problem, be sure your electric choke is actuating.

trh250r wrote: It would be the raw water pump , i just boat the boat last August, I did the winterization but never notcied, and i did not take the impeller out. Thanks for the correction, it would be the drive shaft packing im talking about, I'm going to tighten the nut to see if this helps.

Not given,
Get you first name in your profile!! I'm older and hate the new screen name routine!!!    Most here go "old fashion" and do use first names!!
Sheave alignment can be corrected with shims but that's only in one direction. To the negative, it's mods or bending brackets. Don't go by eye - get the straight edge out along with the tape measure out and check. Look for the center line off the straight edge using the tape measure since the thickness of sheaves do vary.

You mention taking on water plus the speedo(s) not working. At leak in the pitot tubing and or the pulsation dampeners would account for both. Are you taking on water while under way or moored?

TRH - My RWP pulley was also out of alignment. I put a thin washer in a strategic spot to get it to align.    Use a straight edge to figure out which way it needs to be shimmed. Hope this helps.

thank you for the advice

The raw-water pump looks like it was replaced at some point.

My gut is telling me that something didn't go back together quite right with the bracketry...

My engine is a similar vintage. I'll give it the hairy eyeball and take a couple of close up pics if I can so you can compare.

You are correct, sir, I am a hack....

It was way out of alignment when I replaced the impeller and belts this spring. I knew it, and ran it anyway. What I could not determine at the time, nor now, is the appropriate technique to correct said mis-alignment. Pre-made shims, ah, what a revelation. I'm heading to auto zone tonight. To use the vernacular of the south, I was a' fixin' to grind my own, and not looking forward to the task. Or take off the bracket and persuade it into a better position. Neither solution was acceptable at the time.

I regret not the thrown belt, nor lament it's early consumption. It was consumed in the pursuit of family bliss, which this boat has provided my family in spades in the short time we've owned it. My girls spent 6 hours in the water last Sunday, all three got up on the wakeboard/starter skis, and the youngest up on the slalom ski for a few seconds before she bit the dust. 6 hours on 6 gallons of fuel, plus a $3.00 launch fee. That's cheap entertainment at our house. They came home tanned, tired and sore. My job is to keep this sled running until wintertime, when I'll have the time to fix all the sub-component failures.

As has been said before, you guys know way too much about these boats and I, for one, am quite thankful of this fact.


Regards,

Ed

Ed.
The story id FANTASTIC about your family!!! Keep then going on the water sports as long as it excludes the tubes!!!

DO, if you have any doubts about anything you do with your boat, consult us.

You may need to bend then bracket or add spacers to get the the sheave back in line.

i really cant remember if the pulley is just a press on, if so that could be pulled a little forward??? i have shimmed the brackets in the past and certainly remember shimming the altenaters also

Time out; hold up! Did you watch Pete's video on the proper use of a BFH? This is crucial.

Otherwise, I'd say your plan is spot on.   

Look for a speed shop in your neighborhood for a better selection of shims.

echobravoecho wrote: Auto Zone was a bust last night. They only carry fender shims and starter shims. Here's my current plan for tomorrow: 1. Pull the pump AND the pump mounting bracket. (this I did not do when I refurbed the pump last April) 2. Beat on the bracket with a big hammer. (BFH) 3. Test fit bracket and pump. 4. Repeat until I break the bracket, or straighten the sheave. 5. Re-install bracket, pump and belt. Sound good! :)

ever heard of WASHERS?

I played around with this over the weekend and improved the alignment somewhat.

The problem in this case was the angular misorientation of the pulley. It was about 3 degrees or so out of alignment in the horizonal plane and, after close inspection, a few degrees out of alignment in the vertical plane. In other words, it was messed up. This chewed up the belt and caused an early failure.

I also did a little experiement and found that as the belt is tightened, the mounting bracket flexes out toward the front of the engine and the pump pulley shaft flexes in toward the engine, but not the same amount as the bracket flexes out. Plus the mating surfaces between the pump body and the bracket aren't really flat, so there is a bit of movement there also.

So there was actually two problems to solve, the vertical and horizontal. The first solution was to install tapered shims to correct the horizontal problem. But I couldn't find the correctly sized shims with the correct taper. The shims would have to be tapered 3deg and fit between the mounting bracket and the pump body in order to work.


I used the potential interference between the bolt head and the mounting bracket GlassSeeker noticed and used it to create an angular force to change the horizontal component of the angle. I jammed a screwdriver tip and a washer in the space and tightened it until the pump pulley was nearly parallel with the other pulleys. Tightened it down, then found approximately sized washers to replace the screwdriver.


I also used a washer between the pump and bracket on the bottom mount to kick out the vertical angle a little more.
In the pictures you can see the angle before and later with the belt tightened. It's still not spot on.

After the vertical adjustment.



During the horizontal adjustment.




After the horizontal adjustment, tightened down, but before the extra washers.



BR,

Ed

Your sure you didn't mount it upside down? Looks it to me, as a result one of the three bolts you remove to replace the impeller may be binding with the bracket pushing it out of alignment. I thought the bulbous part of the pump body was on the outside of the engine. How about the bleed screw on the pump, you look at keeganino's photo and you can see the bleed screw on the outside, yours must be on the inside as you can't see it.

Just my two cents worth.

Tony

Looked into it further and it looks like a lot of them have the bolt heads towards the front. I really thought I had it for a second there.

Bri892001 wrote: The location of the set screw is rotation dependent, so it being different on the two boats might be normal. I'd guess by the difference in vintage that the earlier is a Right Hander and the later is a Left. I do have something of interest, from the Aquaskier.com impeller replacement article. Notice how the pump halves are bolted together and the following pic. The head of the bolts that hold it together are astern. Tyler's bolt heads are towards the bow, allowing them to interfere with the mounting bracket.

This is interesting, this one is angled like mine only in the other direction. I wonder how long his belt stayed on.

As for the backwards part, I was concerned about that also, not having done it before. When I fired it up the first time water pumped up and out the exhaust, I figured it was on correctly. Also the internal wear marks on the impeller matched, the rotation matched the direction the impeller blades were bent, and the hoses lined right back up so it all looked ok.