97 sport shaft coupler removal

start cranking! the tighter they are the better, seen many slide right off from MA which means no good. at times you may have to put pressure on it and hit it with mapp gas or a torch, but be careful cause those gas fumes like to linger low in the bildge. once you pull it and check for straightness i will usually re-set the coupling on the shaft and chuck it in my lathe and take a face cut to true up the coupling to the shaft and then press it back off.

Thanks to the reassurance Eric. I will begin the cranking today, I will post pics from the job.

Most of the set screws are 1/4" which needs a 1/8" hex wrench. Some of the older struts have slotted head set screws in them.

Steve I would replace that shaft now it is out. The wear could have been caused by misalignment so check the alignment when you get it all back together. If the shaft is that worn the cutless bearing (skeg bush in Oz) must be in bad shape.
The double taper shafts are the way to go if replacing but shipping from US will make it an expensive option. Justin (Nevergrew) had a new prop shaft made by Cassell Marine for his 89 SN2001. It was not a double taper but used the split coupling like the ski boats with soft clutch setup.

Steve,
I agree with Mark on replacing the shaft and yes, the ARE double taper is the way to go. Your old shaft is just to scoured up to be reliable. Don't worry about the taper for the prop. All props will fit any boat shaft tapers.

Thanks for the input guys, i removed the strut from the boat last night and as you can see from the pictures the cutlass bearing was worn on the prop side of the the strut. However the input side of the strut did not seem that worn, i am going to get the old ones pressed out and new ones pressed in today at work. This project started off at checking alignment that has ended up in me removing the shaft, coupler from shaft, rudder, strut and now i have identified a small leak in oil pan, so motor is coming out next week,. I should be able to get a good alignment from changing all this over. Considering putting in a dripless shaft seal, what are peoples thoughts on these? Check out the pics

Steve,
Drill and tap them to the next larger metric size. It may be easier.

BTW, most of the set screws I found to be 1/4-20.

Don't woory about me coming down on you for not having original sized set screws!!

Steve,
The cutlass bearings are typically more of a press fit into the strut. It doesn't take much of a set screw to hold them in and keep them from rotating. Go for the metric "conversion!!! WTH, I thought you when still on the inch system with your close connection to the "mother isles"!!!!