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2 piece cutless or 1 piece?

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    Posted: August-08-2011 at 6:38pm
trying to buy new cutless bearing for my 96 supersport, the dealer wants me to buy the 2 piece at 92 a pop yikes! they are the traditional brass shelled, skidim has the 2 piece for 65 made from vesconite thermoplastic and i have found duramax marine makes a one piece but cant find the right size, and nautiqueparts.com has the one piece for 125, any thoughts on use of 1 or 2 piece?
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5628&sort=&pagenum=1
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrCC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-08-2011 at 6:50pm
Last time i checked deepblueyachtsupply had one piece Duramax for under 40 dollars.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote natedog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-08-2011 at 7:00pm
deepblueyachtsupply has a 4 1/2" long cutless bearings but my strut shaft housing is 6" i guess i would need two and cut them? only nautiqueparts.com has the full one piece from what i have found
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-08-2011 at 7:07pm
I have put the 4" in my 6" strut...I left the 2" gap toward the front input (front) of the strut....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrCC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-08-2011 at 7:09pm
4 1/2" should be perfect, installed from the back.

Unless you just want full length for some reason.

Check with deepblue I could have swore I've seen longer lengths.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-08-2011 at 7:21pm
I agree that 6" isn't needed. 4.5" will work fine. Yes, install it flush with the aft end of the strut.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote natedog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-08-2011 at 7:26pm
ok thanks does it need to be brass or non-metallic, i was gonna get the brass shelled.
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5628&sort=&pagenum=1
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-08-2011 at 7:34pm
brass is fine
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-08-2011 at 7:48pm
Nate,
Again, I agree about the traditional brass shelled rubber. It has worked for MANY years!! I've had problems with plastic bearings in industry. The plastic for the cutlass is relatively new and I don't know if they have proven themselves in a marine strut application yet. Plus, I'm a old guy who likes to stay with known things that work!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote natedog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-08-2011 at 7:54pm
ordered the 4 1/2 from deepblue, a rep told me some guys cut them in half and put the gap in the middle of the strut anyone do this? also i have seen a thread on how to press the bearing into the strut but can find it now, i remember freezing the bearing for 3 hours then using a threaded rod with washers and tightening the washers down to press it into place is this the best method?
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5628&sort=&pagenum=1
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote natedog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-08-2011 at 8:09pm
does anyone know if the struts from white lake marine come preloaded with bearings? i ordered a strut and have tried emailing and calling to find out and the description under the strut on their site does not say, so i assumed it would not come preloaded with the bearing but i wanted to ask people here as well since they won't respond
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-08-2011 at 8:13pm
Nate,
I've never see a strut come though with a cutlass bearing.

The threaded rod with large washers is your best bet if you don't have and arbor press. I too, do not feel the freezing is needed. Just make sure you get the bearing started straight with the bore of the strut.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-08-2011 at 8:21pm
All of the struts that are coming from CC dealers these days come with strut bushings installed, I believe. I have purchased 2 from White Lake and N3 over the last year or so.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote natedog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-08-2011 at 9:51pm
that would be nice if it did come with bushing, but it would be nice if someone from nautiqueparts.com would respond to calls or emails so i could know for certain.
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5628&sort=&pagenum=1
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrCC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-08-2011 at 10:51pm
I don't think I would order anything without some kind of response.


I am a huge fan of the freezer trick!   I amazed myself!
Only I leave them in the freezer for at least 24 hours.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cooperlacy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-08-2011 at 11:00pm
I bought a new strut from SkiDIM a year ago and it came with the bushings installed as well. They used two short brass-shelled rubber bushings. One was installed at the front and one at the rear with an empty space between the two. The set screws were installed as well if I remember correctly.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote natedog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-09-2011 at 12:56am
I called skiDIM but they do not carry struts for my super sport because they said they don't sell enough, i ordered one from nautiqueparts.com because they are a subsidiary of White Lake Marine and i am trying to get the boat going for this weekend for family coming in. its funny because i received tracking info and emails for a receipt but no one could answer my email if the bearing is installed so i ordered that from deepblueyachsupply.com in case

sucks because i don't like to order without knowing the product but i'm in a bind
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5628&sort=&pagenum=1
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote natedog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2011 at 12:57pm
ok so the new strut i ordered came with the cutlass bearing, when i install the new strut is there any special instructions i should follow? how much 3m 5200 should i use? just cake the bottom of the strut, and tighten down the bolts? how long does it need to set up?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2011 at 1:38pm
Nate,
Struts are notorious for poor machining jobs on the base and the holes. Don't count on it just bolting up. You must check the alignment to the hull hole and log.

The 5200 is moisture cure so the cure time depends on the humidity. Cound on at least 5 days The instructions will tell you 7 days for a full cure.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote natedog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2011 at 6:01pm
Pete,
does the alignment video cover the hull hole and log?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2011 at 6:57pm
Nate,
Yes it's in there and actually my starting point since alignment starts at the strut and then you go forward. Take a look at it and if there is something you're unsure of post the question.

I take it you haven't watched it yet???


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2011 at 7:34pm
I think 4200 is worth considering.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2011 at 8:54pm
Originally posted by BuffaloBFN BuffaloBFN wrote:

I think 4200 is worth considering.

Greg,
It's certainly not a bad option.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote natedog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2011 at 10:40pm
5200 was all they had where i went, is 4200 just a slower curing compound? thats the only difference i really gathered from 3m's site.
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5628&sort=&pagenum=1
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote natedog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2011 at 10:50pm
i have watched the video, but i have not gotten down to look at the coupling flange because the damn v-drive is a pain
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote horkn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2011 at 11:08pm
4200 is not as durable as 5200. 4200 takes less cure time but I was strongly suggested to use 5200 instead of 4200 when I had to R&R my strut.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote natedog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2011 at 11:42pm
watching the strut alignment video and i am not sure how do you keep the tranny flange stationary to rotate the prop shaft and rotate it at 90* increments to check if the shaft towards the front is bent
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote horkn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-11-2011 at 1:48am
Do you have the bolts out of the 2 couplings?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote natedog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-11-2011 at 2:31am
no i did not, i thought the removal of the bolts came later in the video but i guess i got that confused
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-11-2011 at 8:38am
Loosen the bolts enough to use the feeler gauge, remove the bolts and rotate the shaft side 90 degrees, put at least one bolt back in to hold the coupling together, check again with the feeler gauge and repeat.

Keep in mind that you need to check aft of the strut too. A bent shaft there is common with prop/strut damage.


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