oil change issue

It's a long slow process, helps if you warm it up first and have some suction to pull the oil. Takes over an hour for mine if I just let it drain through the hose.

Got it, it was real slow,.. thanks guys. I got the straight 40w like the manual calls for 6$ a qrt!!!!

I'm probably forgetting I have a V-hull again. Still, 20-30 mins.

ZDDP

cragginshred wrote: I was unable to remove the oil filter by hand or with an oil filter wrench. What the heck?????

turning it the correct way?

I often get the wrench pretty tight and then step over the handle, a slight pressure with the foot usually releases the stuck filter.
Remember to put some oil on the new filter seal and tighten by hand so you dont go through this hassle next season.

I bought the boat this past Sept. so the stuck filter is from whomever changed it last. So for a definitive answer on the oil type for a 95 SN with a GT 40 motor is- VR! 20- 50 ??    It is not too late to swap what I bought.

I use the hose system all the time. Takes about 15 minutes. Definitely need to warm it up though. No muss no fuss. Valvoline VR-1 20 / 50 wt.

I've been using it for 8 years or so, about 900hrs on 2 motors with no issues. To the best of my knowledge they are both still running fine. I'm not sure what you can find these days with the appropriate ZDDP levels that is much lighter.

I understand the need to use an oil with high levels of ZDDP such as in Valvoline VR1 racing oil but why would you not use the straight 40W viscosity instead of the 20w/50 you use? I am not challenging you, just curious.

Way back in the day when Pete was as old as Tim is now multi weight oil wasn't as good either.10w30 could break down leaving you with the lower of the two.It was common for manufactures of high stressed engines to use straight weight oil.Oil and web discussions of it have come a long way.

Most have their own opinions and favorite oils. I have an older '80 with the same 351 in it. The first time I had it serviced the guy put regular 10W30 in it. After learning a bit about inboards and readig alot on CCF and talking with Pete I was convinced that Valvoline VR-1 20W50 is what I would use. Have been ever since with excellent results.
If you are happy with the 30 weight use it. Don't forget to look for maximum ZDDP. Enjoy the ride.

Jllogan wrote: VR1 comes in a 10W30 as well is that too light? I think the sticker on the valve cover of mine says 10W30.

My understanding is that the levels of ZDDP aren't consistent across the different grades, even within the same brand. I think the heavier weight VR1 is necessary for the higher ZDDP, not necessarily for the weight.

6.Which oil has more zinc/ZDDP: VR1 or "Not Street Legal" racing oil?

Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil contains .13 percent of zinc and .12 percent of phosphorus compared to the Valvoline "Not Street Legal" Racing Oil which contains .14 percent of zinc and .13 percent of phosphorus.

Seems that according to them its the same for all VR1. .13 percent. So the 10W30 is an option I would say for those concerned about the heavy weight. You would think that could hurt performance 50w

ok so I had that backwards then?

The weight or thickness is always 20W it just has the viscosity of a 50W when hot? So there would be no difference in the ability of your engine to circulate a straight 20W oil over a 20W 50?

I tried something new this year, mainly because I wanted to drain the oil hot and had not bought the new oil yet at that time. I let it drain ALL WEEK. And, let me tell you- for the first time ever, the boat actually took the full 5 quarts (inc. filter) of new oil. I've pumped it before and let it drain for hours before but this was the first time I think it ever really, fully, 100% drained. Kinda nice.

As for multi-weight vs. straight weight- one key thing to know would be at what temp do the viscosity modifiers "react" to produce the heavier weight? And, is the reaction progressive as the temp goes up or down or is it pretty much an all or nothing thing? If it's above 50 degrees or so that 20W50 becomes 50, then I'd imagine it wouldn't help starting the engine during the summer season. However, if it becomes 50W at, say, 160* and it's 20W at 85* then that's a different story.