Engine rebuild questions |
Post Reply | Page 12> |
Author | |
dochockey
Gold Member Joined: September-16-2009 Location: Colorado Status: Offline Points: 638 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: March-09-2013 at 12:53pm |
Paul how s the engine project? Did you figure out all your gaskets?
Where did you get your mirror ? Kirk |
|
1989 Teal Ski Nautique
1967 Mustang Harris Float Sunfish |
|
73SN
Senior Member Joined: October-05-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 147 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Ok, I got some material.
Should all four holes let water flow? I've read a few threads where the bottom hole is covered on the new ones. I don't remember it being covered. I think I would've noticed anyway. |
|
8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Even an "all purpose" gasket made from aramid fiber and buna-N rubber has a high temp range of 400 degrees. Even the cheap water resistant vegetable fiber gasket materials have a high limit of 250 degrees. Hopefully that rebuild project won't run that hot!!
|
|
73SN
Senior Member Joined: October-05-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 147 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I know what you mean with the hammer method. I used a rubber mallet on the tape before I painted the block and the heads.
What about the gasket material? the caps and inlets should be fine but the big pieces may need heat resistance. I'd hate to have leaks/problems in this area. |
|
62 wood
Grand Poobah Joined: February-19-2005 Location: NW IL Status: Offline Points: 4527 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Cant help you with info on where to buy the gaskets, but you can make them pretty easy.
NAPA (and pretty much any auto store)has sheets of gasket material. Cut a piece a little larger than the part, then take a small ball peen hammer and gently tap around the perimeter and the holes edge. The hammer will "cut" the gasket to shape. |
|
73SN
Senior Member Joined: October-05-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 147 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
its caps and inlets, and thermostat manifold:
|
|
73SN
Senior Member Joined: October-05-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 147 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
This type:
|
|
73SN
Senior Member Joined: October-05-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 147 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Does anyone know where to get the exhaust gaskets for the 4-bolt round-type exhaust manifold? All I see on-line are the rectangular type. I can make them but I'm running short on time and would rather buy them if they're available.
The kit came with manifold-to-head gasket but I need the ones for the rear portion (riser?)and its caps and inlets, and thermostat manifold. (sorry, not sure what all the pieces are called). |
|
73SN
Senior Member Joined: October-05-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 147 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Thanks Gary. I know html pretty well but haven't tried to figure out the whole links-in-a-forum thing yet...
I got the Anaerobic Permatex sealer at the fourth place I went to. $15 for a 16th of an inch bead in two small areas? I guess its what I'll use on the gaskets too. Thanks guys! I'm back at it. |
|
Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Link No you just didn't do it right but here you go---
|
|
JoeinNY
Grand Poobah Joined: October-19-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 5695 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
It's all RTV these days kids - OEMs have gone to using it extensively on new engines, transmission cases, etc. Including in the exact spot you are talking about. A good RTV between two surfaces provides a nice seal, yes it doesnt stick to the outside of stuff well, and no you dont want to fill a big gap with it but it would work just fine here. As would the proper permatex product or anerobic sealant. Not using too much or too little here is the real trick.
|
|
73SN
Senior Member Joined: October-05-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 147 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I guess the NoFollow keeps the link from working. just copy and paste for pics.
|
|
73SN
Senior Member Joined: October-05-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 147 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
BuffaloBFN
Grand Poobah Joined: June-24-2007 Location: Gainesville,GA Status: Offline Points: 6094 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I use that permatex aviation form a seal for lots of things, but not that spot. If you have to pull it all apart(beacuse the rear main is leaking) just to put the right stuff in there, you'll invent dirty words.
|
|
73SN
Senior Member Joined: October-05-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 147 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
yep, rear main cap. The book (HPBooks) is pretty good but there have been a few things that I've questioned in it, like:"Seal the Rear-Main Cap- ..Run a small bead of silicone sealer-about 1/16 of an inch wide-in the corners of the cylinder blocks rear-main-bearing register..."
It also had some strange comments about the distributor & the firing order. The Permatex 2B non-hardening is labeled "Form*A Gasket Sealant". not sure if its anaerobic or not. I'll run by NAPA later and see what they've got. All-in-all the build going OK. I've had to return the rings because the gaps were too big. The cost has been a bit more than I expected but I'm trying to add reliability with ARP rod bolts and oil pump shaft, and that type of thing. I've had to do a good bit of reading since its my first one. I haven't gotten deep into it yet but I gotta tell you guys I appreciate y'all being here. I'll post some pics to photo bucket and post a link. |
|
BuffaloBFN
Grand Poobah Joined: June-24-2007 Location: Gainesville,GA Status: Offline Points: 6094 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Honored to serve.
He really didn't want silicone in that spot; still assuming we are talking about the same spot. |
|
SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Greg - did you pull the short straw on graveyard guard duty?
|
|
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
|
BuffaloBFN
Grand Poobah Joined: June-24-2007 Location: Gainesville,GA Status: Offline Points: 6094 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
How is it coming along? Pics? Raw knuckles?
|
|
BuffaloBFN
Grand Poobah Joined: June-24-2007 Location: Gainesville,GA Status: Offline Points: 6094 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
If you're asking about the rear main cap, it gets an anaerobic sealant. It's important to get the right stuff; Loctite calls it gasket maker 518. It's also important to put it only where it's supposed to go. My PCM manual has a shaded drawing that helps.
If we're talking about the same thing, I would question the quality of that book. |
|
73SN
Senior Member Joined: October-05-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 147 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
quick question: I'm doing my assembly, what's the best sealer to use on the rear main seal cap? The book says silicone but I'm wondering if Permatex 2B non-hardening or something else would be ok.
Also, may not be pertinent but I had the crank machined to take a one-piece rear main seal. |
|
73SN
Senior Member Joined: October-05-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 147 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I'm looking locally for a block now. It is a two piece rear seal. was looking forward to an engine build but may just buy a short block and be done with it, especially if I cant find a block. I spoke with Mabbco folks in TX, $795 +shpng for reverse rotation short block using my cam (reground).
still looking around tho. |
|
JoeinNY
Grand Poobah Joined: October-19-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 5695 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Unfortunately that was to be expected with the water in the oil, then the water causes the spun bearing. You are gonna need a block that has the same rear seal configuration that you have. If it is one piece then get a one piece, two, get a two. Other than that you simply need a 351w block.. you could get one from a junk yard and have it machined or buy one that has already been recovered and machined.
Good luck! |
|
73SN
Senior Member Joined: October-05-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 147 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Cracked block... looking for a replacement.
|
|
BuffaloBFN
Grand Poobah Joined: June-24-2007 Location: Gainesville,GA Status: Offline Points: 6094 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Gary is spot on.
|
|
Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Paul,you have to go by what pistons you use. 0 offset they can go in either way,offset pistons then they would need to be reversed. The reason IMO the Mercruiser guy thinks they need to be reversed is that they are usually Chevys.Ford small blocks are 0 offset. Might be wise to check with piston manufacturer.
|
|
73SN
Senior Member Joined: October-05-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 147 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I dropped off the engine parts at the machine shop Friday.
I have a couple of friends who have done engine builds, one who has an encyclopedic knowledge of engines, but seems to be a bit unsure on the reverse rotation. Well, he's pretty sure of himself, I just need reassuring. Ford 351W in a '73 Ski Nautique: When I disassembled the crank portion the pistons had notches facing the front of the engine (like normal), the rods and caps were numbered 1-8 (like normal): front to rear 1-4 on the right and 5-8 on the left. The guy at the machine shop said he thought the pistons notches were supposed to face the rear on a reverse rotation engine (mentioned working on Mercury for years). I told him I was positive (video and photo reference) the pistons were arrange normally. He said there had to be an "offset" to prevent "slap" if that was the case and he would check/measure for it. He thought someone may have dropped in an engine at some point, but: The rod bearings dated 8 72 and the mains had 10 2, whatever that means. Anyone have any experience, thoughts, or comments? |
|
73SN
Senior Member Joined: October-05-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 147 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
TS/Hurricane Isaac kept me from taking the parts to the machine shop today: $1016 for machine labor. I'll handle it Friday.
I estimate RevRot engine rebuild kit at $300-$500. |
|
71CCMartinique
Groupie Joined: June-15-2012 Location: Ohio River Status: Offline Points: 55 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I shopped around and compared the cost to rebuild and to replace. I found my best buy at marineengine.com. It was around $2300 for a delivered long block with a 2 year warranty. The problems I had during swap were self inflicted. Motor fired right away and runs great.
|
|
turningpoint84
Platinum Member Joined: September-11-2008 Location: Cincinnati, OH Status: Offline Points: 1467 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
How much did you pay, and did you bother to shop around? I might do this myself. |
|
Proud 1968 mustang owner and now
1970 Mustang |
|
73SN
Senior Member Joined: October-05-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 147 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Spun a rod bearing.
|
|
Post Reply | Page 12> |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |