floor repair and exploration

floor exploration is a complementary maneuver for the treatment of zygomatic-maxillary compound fractures that permits the precise diagnostic of the lesion and the correct indication of repair.

ny_nautique wrote: Teelta, I'm leaning towards pouring the foam after the floor is done. Just wondering how your process went, and if you had a lot of waste. My thought is: 1) Install floor 2) drill strategic holes throughout the floor (every 3 feet or so) 3) Tip the boat on the trailer 4) Pour foam into holes 5) Cap holes 6) Glass floor Did you let the foam expand and then cut it, or did you use something to stop it from expanding above your floor height?

Jeff, definitely without a doubt attach plywood, cut holes, and then foam. It will be a lot easier. If I had it to do all over again, which I probably won't because this floor should outlast me, I would foam after the plywood is in place. I used 3/4" in front section that covers the bulkhead and 1/2" the rest of the floor. Under the bow, I am fiberglassing right over the foam. I was going to cut holes in the plywood but when it came down to actually cutting the holes I thought it might weaken the plywood, which was stupid because the foam is dense and will support the plywood very well. I also wondered if the foam would fill all the voids if I had the plywood in already - there was no way of knowing. So what I ended up doing is pouring the foam between the stringers and ended up with a lot of waste. I ordered a 10lb 4lb. density kit and had to end up ordering more because I ran out. I did not enjoy getting the foam flush with the top of the stringers. It was not fun. Unless you have already gotten your foam, I would attach your plywood and use the injectable kind like Pete suggests. And if I remember correctly holes need to drilled every 18" or something like that. Also another advantage to putting in foam after the plywood is you are not cutting off the sealed film or skin that forms once it cures making it more impervious to water.
I don't know exactly what you mean by "cap holes" but you can just cut off the mushroom of foam that comes out the holes flush with the plywood and then fiberglass right over it.
Another concern I had after cutting off the mushroom is how do you seal the edge of the plywood hole? Maybe fiberglassing over the top will be enough, I don't know. But I guess you could cut the holes and then CPES the edges just to make sure.

Teelta, I'm leaning towards pouring the foam after the floor is done. Just wondering how your process went, and if you had a lot of waste.

My thought is:
1) Install floor
2) drill strategic holes throughout the floor (every 3 feet or so)
3) Tip the boat on the trailer
4) Pour foam into holes
5) Cap holes
6) Glass floor

Did you let the foam expand and then cut it, or did you use something to stop it from expanding above your floor height?

Yes I've sealed it up with CPES. THX!

I have all my foam poured and am about to get all my plywood glued down to the stringers and foam. I know...I'm one of those guys that decided to use plywood on top of foam.
I was planning on putting 3 layers of Biax over the plywood. Does that sound right? Too much?

Other than glass around it on the sides, how is it attached? Epoxyed to the hull?

I noticed the pylon cup in the bilge is slightly loose. I am unable to pry it loose with moderate pressure. Can I reinforce it by fiberglassing it to the hull?

I will be near my boat this weekend, I can take some measurements if you can wait

Insert a small screwdriver in the cup by the handle and make sure it is straight and then set the floor section down and let the screwdriver mark where the hole needs to be.

The floor in that area was toast when I did mine too. When I got to this point I made a cardboard template for the placement of the pylon.

I am about to cut out the plywood section that goes in front of engine. There was nothing left of the wood I took out so I can't use as a template. The only measurement I am not sure of is where the hole goes for the ski pylon. If anyone has an 89 SN, can you provide me the measurements as well as size of hole? Does carpet go down inside hole?

Roger, that is a lot of glass. That will be much thicker than what is there now. What I'm wondering is...the area will be glassed over anyway when I glass the floor so is it necessary to put anything on it now before the floor goes in?
Also wondering what is it? What is the area I sanded into that is white with dotted pattern?

Looks great Trey...as for the side I would Epoxy over with layers of cloth first start with a inch or so bigger than the thin area and each layer you add should over lap by a inch or so, say 3 or 4 layers then 3 layers of biax to finish....it is key to make sure there are no air gaps on the first cloth layers...if you are right at the back of the gel a air gap could blister later on.
Now with your epoxy skills this repair is easy     

teelta wrote:

Sorry Trey I didn't answer all your points....as for the rough tops of your stringers how many layers are on them now....
[/QUOTE]

Just one layer over the top. the 3 layers bonded to the side of the stringer to the hull.[/QUOTE]

Trey, I would add another layer of biax to the top of the stringers.....try to run the 45 degree layer the other way to the one already laid, it’s not just for strength but to full enclose the wood stringer to stop moisture entering them, one layer could crack/damage over time.

Once your done work out the thickness of the biax on the new and you can cut a notch out of the old and measure how thick it was remember there is around 1/16 + of gel over it, the new will be stronger than the old, my guess is there be around the same as your boat is a 89 and CC would have refined there methods from my old 78.      

teelta wrote: Roger I went with your technique. It worked well. I really liked using the roller vs. paint brush...much faster. In the places where the epoxy pooled it is distinctively smooth and I will sand those areas for sure before applying any more epoxy like to fair out the bilge. But what about areas where it is already rough like on top of the stringer or the area by the secondary stringer (most of it is rough as well) where I need to put more glass on when glassing the secondaries in. Do I need to sand those areas as well?

Sorry Trey I didn't answer all your points....as for the rough tops of your stringers how many layers are on them now....when you say 3 layers is that 3 complete layers ... if so then as you work on the other stringers at the end of each batch of epoxy keep the left over’s in a tray as it stiffens up roll or brush over the tops or add some thickening you have and spread over ,the more you work with it you will see when it just right consistency to level out like in your bilge has in parts (a bit like honey).......it will still need to be pre sanded before each coat.

When you cut out your secondary stringer you will need to grind back the old glass and as you go along the new main side feather (lightly grind) the edge back slopping down onto the hull around a inch or so to give a smooth lap, over the rest of the biax 60 or 80 if hand sanding.

Measure the thickness of the finished stringer against the unfinished wood for the other side divide by 2 and that will give you a good Idea of what to allow for the biax so your cradle will fit back in.......I would then add an extra 3/16 for squeak room/epoxy paint.