Stringer Repair 1985 2001 Ski Nautique

Agree with joe but I don't like the more complicated logistics of grinding/new stringer/grinding/new stringer, as I grind outside and glass inside. If you grind and glass in the same spot and can avoid bracing the hull multiple times, you're golden. I won't grind in the garage though, so I measure everything, remove/grind outside, then bring it indoors, brace it and glass.

So, I'm mostly done with the tear down process.

The cavity underneath the batter box was a disaster. It was soaking wet, and covered in some sort of black crud ~~~ I guess it's oil.




In addition to the spots under the battery box, nearly all of the foam was soaking wet, and water was literally standing in many places I removed foam from. I suspect that water is getting in my boat from the bottom side.

I went underneath, and took some photos. In one of them, you can see a patch ~~~and a place beside the patch where fiberglass is showing.







There is another spot that is suspect also (even larger, but it was impossible to get a descent picture of.

I've got a couple of questions:

1. How do I free up the secondary stringer without cutting the hull out of the back of the boat? It's a tight fit back there.



2. Does anyone have any recommendations as to the best tool to remove the floor underneath the dash (including the air intake box)?

3. I did some grinding in the starboard aft corner to get the rest of the floor up back there. Does anyone have a better idea for the port aft corner?


Here's a final picture of my boat in my new boat barn. You can see that there is still some work to do on the barn.

This has been typical for my boat so far. In a post somewhere, I read that the "correct craft employees were a bunch of untrained chimps with axes" ~~~~ I got a chuckle out of it, but now I'm seeing that the statement was closer to the truth.

Here, you'll see "zero" fiberglass protecting the main stringer leading into the the air box underneath the dash.




I was unable to preserve the air intake box. Underneath the box was solid foam, and I had to cut it into about 5 pieces to get it free.

Once I get the foam cleaned out, I guess it's time to start grinding the floor and trying to free up stringers.

I'm not missing a step am I?

Engine mount location is the most critical. So, stringer height in the cradle area, as well as fore/aft placement is the main thing you need to be concerned with. If youre not removing the pylon cup and can use that as a locating feature when reinstalling, thats a big help.

I went and measured. I think I'll measure again tomorrow.

While I was out there, the angle grinder started calling my name, and I found myself back in my respirator and hazmat suit.

I attacked the tops of the main stringers ~ (aft the engine compartment) for no particular reason. It went fast. I took the gel coat off, and went down to the fiberglass, then stopped.

Then I decided to try the bilge. The experience with the bilge didn't work so well because the safety guard was in the way. Then it occurred to me that there might be a difference between an "angle grinder" and a "regular grinder."

This is what I have:
Ryobi 4.5 inch Angle Grinder"



I read through the manual, and it said, "This grinder will not accept a cutting blade, and should not be used for cutting purposes."

Have I bought the wrong tool?

The guard is to keep the manual from getting caught in it.

Woah, I definitely do NOT suggest removing the guard. I cannot believe anyone here would suggest doing that, especially Pete. If its truly in the way (it shouldnt be) find different tool.

Grind down until you just hit some glass.

Pictures would be great of the area you think were repaired.

Cheap shop vacs from the hardware or home centers are not meant to be run for long times. They do NOT have a 100% duty cycle.

8122pbrainard wrote: Grind down until you just hit some glass. Pictures would be great of the area you think were repaired. Cheap shop vacs from the hardware or home centers are not meant to be run for long times. They do NOT have a 100% duty cycle.

It might not be a problem with duty cycle,it might just be eating all that glass dust that did it in. I had a cheap one years ago my wife won in a sales contest.It had a metal bottom, made alot of noise and I hated it. I even took the filters out,ran a hose out the window and used it to "pump" drywall dust outside when I was done sanding.Then when I got my blast cabinet I used it on that for awhile.I finally just thru it out.I think when Vondy did his boat he used one of these.

Running it too long ~~~~ That's probably what messed my vac up ~~~ it ran for about 2 hours straight. It was working fine until I turned it off to clean out the filter.....

I read the warranty information of the replacement. It seems that there is a 60 day replacement warranty. Looks like I might be going through a few of them......

Okay, I went back and tried to get a picture of the believed to be damaged & then replaced area. It was very difficult to see in the one area that was still left, so I think it would be better to "describe" it.

Around the drain plug, instead of gelcoat, there was some sort of grey paint. The separating line between the gelcoat and the paint was a perfect line, and nearly the exact same color. This was also the case on the through hole for the drive shaft.

The area around it was very uneven, and I had to spend a bit of time grinding around there to get the peaks and valleys out of it. Water used to sit back there all the time before.

By the way, I was at Bill's Boatworks page, and saw this picture.




I'm most interested in the old stringer. It has writing on it every few inches. It looks like he was measuring something, but I'm not sure what the numbers represent? It might be the distance from the stern, but I'm not sure.


As for my progress, I have sanded the bilge from the drain plug to the cross plank tie in of the main stringers. I guess I'm a little over half way done.

I went to Jamestown's website with the idea of beginning to build a materials list. Is CPES really $799 for a 10 gallon kit? Holy Cow! What's in it? Rhino Horns, and gold bullion?

I bought the 2 gallon kit(1 gallon each part) and had plenty left over.

You also have the option to make some home brew CPES. Its basically a glorified epoxy resin with some solvents in it to thin it out for better absorption. When the solvents flash off, youre left with just the epoxy. I cant see spending way more for CPES since theyre just taking epoxy resin and diluting it with cheaper, commonly available solvents. Theres a link on here somewhere on the best materials and ratios... I believe xylene was the preferred solvent.

Today = Massive Fail!

Home Depot ` bought a different type of grinding wheel, it was terrible. So I spent 25 on the wheel, can't take it back, and need to go back to Home Depot to get the right kind, and spend more money.

As an alternative progression, I figured I would remove the cables attached to the throttle control, and the electrical harness. Fail also. I saw the cotter pin, removed it, but could not free the cable. No idea what is connecting the push/pull knob (that puts it in or takes it out of gear)..... So I put the cotter pin back in, and move on.

I decided to take measurements. Went and got my notebook to discover that it got rained on..... found a dry sheet. Drew a picture, and took measurements of the starboard side. Figured I was screwing it up, so I took a nap.


Two hours later, I decided I didn't really need measurements to remove a secondary stringer. The easiest one to get out is the Driver's side ~ but it is the most corroded. Also there is no floor tab on that side (because the floor was completely separated from the hull on that side ~ except for the back 18 inches or so).

So I figured the port side secondary stringer was the way to go.... Of course it's "buried in deeper than an Alabama Tick" (anyone pick up on the Predator reference?), and I have no idea how to start trying to remove it ~~~~so sat in the empty hull for another hour, vacuumed (I've discovered it's my default activity when I am lost). took a few pictures and came inside to vent on the thread.

The only positive I can discern for today: I did buy some plastic to keep the dust contained around the boat. I stapled it in place with my staple gun. So far, it is holding.

Pictures: I was in fact able to get two shots of the suspected patch






Here is some strange fiberglass in between the secondary stringers and the sidewall. There are several places like this. You can literally pull on the fibers.



I have come to the conclusion that I have no idea how to proceed once I finish sanding the gelcoat off the bilge.


Best,
J

The pylon receptacle and the hull log have been covered in gray gel rather than splattered like the rest of the bilge on several boats I've torn down. I believe what you're seeing is normal.

Get the pylon out, cradle out and pull all your cables and wire harnesses before going any further.

TX Foilhead wrote: I hate those nights, but they happen. It's hard to figure out what your doing when you've never done it before.   This place is great for advice, but this is hands on stuff and you have to do it to really understand it. Don't forget that you learn from mistakes, chalk it up as a learning experience and try again this weekend.

TX ~ Thanks for the encouragement. Yesterday was just a bad day all around.... it was about 50 degrees and raining to boot. Today it is sunny, so I'm more optimistic, and will press on.