seeking a high gloss shine

Hey guys,
I've spent the day working on my gelcoat. Arms feel like jelly.

Decided to replace my decals and when I pulled off the old ones, there was significant oxidation "ghosting" in the gel. Rubbing compound wouldn't even make a dent in removing it so I started wetsanding. So far, I've made a pass with 600, 1000, 1500, 2000 and 3000 grit paper. I then applied a West Marine marine polish (by hand). While the gel is free of oxidation and the ghosting is 99% gone (good enough for me), the gel still duller than I'd like.

I want the gel to pop. Really want a mirror finish.   Other wetsanding threads reference the 3M products and some mention an orbital buffer. Are the 3M products that much better? Is the buffer a necessity to getting the shine I want?

Some 3M products recommend the foam pad and since I didn't have any at all I got their waffle pads.

I used Presta Ultra Cutting Creme, then Presta Chroma and waxed with collinite 885 fleet wax. Used wool pad for the cutting creme, foam pad for Chroma with a rotary buffer and hand waxed. The boat looks pretty good but I know wet sanding is in my future.   

You were doing something wrong if it didn't stay looking good after a wetsanding and polishing. Either you didn't go far enough with the sanding, or you didn't take care of it afterwards.

The 3M stuff with their matching pads is pretty foolproof and works much quicker than trying to do it with wool pads. I wetsanded my blue stripe last year and its amazing what just getting rid of the orange peal does for the shine. New stripes coming this year so I'll get the orange peal out of silver cloud below the rub rail this year.

I know the factory uses 3M stuff and non rotary buffers I should have taken a picture of the container they were using for a final buff but figured I'd remember what it was. Needless to say I didn't. I'm pretty sure Tom nailed it when he said Finese. Sounds familiar and you know how they look right out of the factory.

Rotary with 3 levels of 3M compounds:

Joel,
That's what's I'm looking for. Thanks for the help, guys.

All,
If you complete your wetsanding with 2000 or 3000 grit paper like I did, does going over it with the 3M super duty compound not undo what you did with the fine paper? Hard to argue with results but dang that 3M SD is some gritty stuff

Steve,

Stop sanding and check those stringers by taking some deep core samples. There could be problems down under.

Donald

Steve K,

Water could be coming in from inside the boat and going through the glass, resin and gel from the inside and causing the dull finish.
Just trying to help.

Donald

Holding the buffer up is far easier on the arms than sanding. Super Duty removes 1000 grit scratches. Two passes of 1000 or maybe a 1200 to be safe but no reason to go past that unless you are seeking an upper body workout.

Google image "rotary buffer"

I like the makitas

I like the Milwaukee, BUT it's a tad fast and a tad heavy.
I think the ideal speed is 1200 to 1500 rpm's my Milw. is 1700.
I agree with H/W over 1000 gt. is a waste, let the compound do it.

And, It probably should be noted that four 60.00 machines Does Not equal one 240.00 machine.


Porter-Cable also makes a real good machine.

Al,
I don't know how you missed the variable speed. I bought mine in 85 to buff the varnish out on my Atom. It was the first bright job I buffed and knew I needed the real low speed. At least on a horizontal surface, they aren't that heavy!