Refurbish or Replace? (Another Swim Deck Post)

I will apologize for yet another swim deck post. I have read lots of posts here and elsewhere (including the useful FAQs[/URL] section; however, I would like help on making a decision on whether or not to refurbish or replace this platform on our '94 SN. I am most concerned about the protruding screws (they are worn smooth to the wood surface). Thanks for taking a look. I am going to post up a couple of other refurbishing questions ASAP.

I would use a power washer (the secret is to use the widest nozzle, and do not stop in one place) I have renewed platforms in that shape before using that method. Let it dry in the sun a few days, then coat with your teak oil.
As far as the little brads, take a small center punch and try to 'bump' them in a bit more.....

You sure are getting some interesting replies!

Inspect your platform closely as you already likely have. If the wood and the brackets are stable and firm (they appear to be as the screws do not appear to have backed out) you have the makings of a great restoration project. It's a heck of a lot cheaper, and you'll be happier having restored the original platform.

Do NOT sand it, and don't hit those screws with a center punch, and leave the pressure washer in the garage! Goodness.

You want to be as kind and non-abrasive to your wood as possible, because at this point either shrinkage, prior sanding, or wear has caused those screws to stick out. You'll want to eliminate the sharp points alright, so I would suggest protecting the surrounding area and >carefully< use a Dremel to smooth them down a bit without taking any of the surrounding wood away. Leaving the screws otherwise untouched is a good idea - don't remove them and don't tighten them.

Donald's suggestion is right on - the Star Brite 3-step process is fine to use. You'll be amazed as to how effective it is. Once you get to the third step - applying the teak oil - use thin coats and let it absorb before adding another coat, and don't rush it. I prefer function over form, so my platform looks a bit light on the teak oil when dry, because it gets real slippery if you use a lot of it in the name of pursuing a showroom-beautiful looking platform. The safety of my family (as well as numero uno) comes first.

Please post the results - would love to see your "after" pictures.

Good luck!

Respectfully, teak is used in marine applications for good reason - its natural resistance to bad stuff like rot, decay and mold. I don't believe that is mold you are looking at, but carbon. Sanding the teak MAY hurt, you will risk exposing the points of additional screws. Start with the three part process, if you feel you need to be more aggressive, you can always step up your attack. If the screws are holding, let them stay exactly where they are, they've already found their home.

I don't mind continuing a dialogue as long as the OP receives good advice and all (me included) are willing to keep an open mind and also be willing to learn. I hope you didn't presume that I haven't worked with teak in my lifetime, nor that I didn't research a topic before putting my name on a reply. You will not find me offering advice on rebuilding carburetors, that's for sure!

If you continue to research all things about teak, you will likely learn that there is in fact a carbonization effect that happens to the oils, which contributes to the resultant color change. Could there be a mix of mildew and carbon in there? Sure. But look at the pattern of discoloration - it sits on the surface and doesn't penetrate the pulp of the wood. There are areas where it is not present, and looks chipped off or broken away.   The top of the platform (like many) is multitude of shades darker than the underside. That is not entirely mold-like. One would expect mold to be in the places where the sun doesn't shine, yet the darkest discoloration is present in a location that likely received the most oil over time. Doesn't really matter, it has to go. How to do it is what is at issue.

Also, I think many can agree that the advice offered by marinestore.com or any other retailer should be taken with a grain of salt. Afterall, their reason for being is to sell you product. Nothing wrong with that. Incidentally, they also (rightly) say not to pressure wash one's teak. I choose to buy that advice, particularly as it is difficult to have a pressure washer do it's job without allowing for a little abrasive cutting power along the way. Nice for a sidewalk, not so much for a swim platform. Too easy to make a mistake, so my advice was to avoid that scenario.

Teak, ultimately, should be left alone. We should all be running around with grey platforms if our goal is longevity and structural integrity. However, grey doesn't look all that appealing, so we offer the world of commerce our money to have our things look nice, and easily buy the notion that a golden honey platform is a good platform. Nothing wrong with that either, but it does start a cycle of constant upkeep, and continued abrasion. We shorten the life of our teak the more we touch it.

I stand by my advice to dremel the protruding screws rather than removing them, but would quickly take that advice all back if one is prone to putting a unsightly gash in the surrounding wood. Teak, being highly resistant to decay, is likely holding those screws perfectly right now. No reason to touch them and introduce a new thread pattern into the wood. They are also highly recessed on the underside, which may necessitate enlarging the hole to ensure the larger diameter screw heads are also recessed. Nope, no reason to mess with that.

I'm happy to learn more from anyone wanting to contribute, but will be most satisfied to have the OP post a beautiful picture of work he is proud of, even if that means he broke out the sandpaper to get there.

Bullies!

8122pbrainard wrote: Jake, Thanks for your advice. I need to learn more about wood since I've never really worked with it.

Sometimes hard to tell what is sincerity vs. sarcasm. Is this meant to be sarcastic Pete?

Jake,
I'm struggling to figure out why you are against going with shorter screws of a larger diameter. Yes, the existing screws have seated in the wood but a larger diameter will find new wood. I've re canvased and re fastened several double plank hull bottoms in my years and the common procedure is to re fasten with the next larger screw size. This is why #7 and #9 silicon bronze wood screws are made. Since the platform is held together with SS flat head sheet metal screws, there will not be a problem going larger due to the more aggressive threads on a sheet metal screw. The larger screws with the proper pilot hole size will hold it together.

Hitting the tips of the old screws with the Dremel would be a very tricky job to avoid making a bunch of divots in the top surface.

Madcap wrote: Teak, ultimately, should be left alone. We should all be running around with grey platforms if our goal is longevity and structural integrity. However, grey doesn't look all that appealing, so we offer the world of commerce our money to have our things look nice, and easily buy the notion that a golden honey platform is a good platform. Nothing wrong with that either, but it does start a cycle of constant upkeep, and continued abrasion. We shorten the life of our teak the more we touch it.

I'm very curious to hear more about this concept in particular. Are there more people who share this opinion? Does anybody know of any supporting documentation to this statement? I'm the laziest guy you've ever met, and if leaving something alone is good for it, then believe me, I'll have no problem in the world leaving it alone. Ugly? Who cares? Function over fashion is my middle name.

I think with my nearly 40 years of doing this I have never had a unsightly hole in a platform after re-furbishing! But you go on and do things your way and I will continue making boaters happy!
Pete in your 100 years or so have you seen unsightly holes after one of your re-furbs? LOL!!!!


These young bucks think they can find all the answers in life through Wikipedia!!

escmanaze wrote: Madcap wrote: Teak, ultimately, should be left alone. We should all be running around with grey platforms if our goal is longevity and structural integrity. However, grey doesn't look all that appealing, so we offer the world of commerce our money to have our things look nice, and easily buy the notion that a golden honey platform is a good platform. Nothing wrong with that either, but it does start a cycle of constant upkeep, and continued abrasion. We shorten the life of our teak the more we touch it. I'm very curious to hear more about this concept in particular. Are there more people who share this opinion? Does anybody know of any supporting documentation to this statement? I'm the laziest guy you've ever met, and if leaving something alone is good for it, then believe me, I'll have no problem in the world leaving it alone. Ugly? Who cares? Function over fashion is my middle name.

Count me in this camp.

Although the OP's platform appears to have had something put on it at some time to make it look pretty like furniture...Im betting it was not teak oil of any type. So some drastic action might be needed.

Me? I leave mine gray, it looks fantastic when it's wet.
It is not slippery from oil and/or being sanded smooth. I do have a screw head poking through and maybe it's even given my drysuit a leak in the knee...I'm still leaving it alone. I'm far too busy skiing.

It really doesn't matter what course of action you take because it is not a safety issue. So it boils down to how you would like your boat to look.

I myself like the refurb look. We did it once 5 years ago & it has held up.

I suggest replacing only a couple screws at one time so you don't loosing the shape. The brackets can come off without any worries.

If you don't like the looks of the holes, try making some bungs. They have bung cutters. The trick will be matching the color. Personally I'd just leave them.

So ... a few days have passed since I started my swim platform restoration and here is an update. First, after clearing it with the experts at CCF, I removed the brackets:



Second, I "experimented" and tried Roy's (aka Roym) (see the FAQs, third installment) suggestions of using Oxi(y) Clean, Dawn, hot water, and 20 minutes of time. The before and after are posted below (note that I used both a small brass brush AND a nylon equivalent during each of these steps):

Cooking up the Oxi Clean brew, before ...



After the Oxi treatment (used only a garden hose to rinse):



Next, the Star Brite "kit" ... Step 1:



With nothing to lose, next stop the pressure washer (wide spray ... about 3 minutes total time at the local auto-wash stop) ... I took it to the edge and, even with relatively close contact, no damage ... the pre-pressure wash, post-Star Brite "Cleaner: Step 1" is shown below:



Will let this deck dry out in the Colorado sun and take another picture ... I think I will be grabbing the oscillating sander and begin working my way up from about 80-120 grit before heading to Star Brite Step 2, "brightener."