Electrical problem on '81 ski nautique

Was wondering if I could get some advice?
Last time I had the boat out, it was running great. Have had no problems for quite a few years. Then, it started just quitting, like the electrical system was shorting out, but did not stop running, just sputter on and off. It would just quit running, the gages would stop, but then come right back on. Then it got worse and worse. When I turned the key to start it, sometimes it would start, then shut down again. When I turned the key, the gauges went on and off. I thought it was the ignition switch, so replaced that this last weekend. At first, it started right up and ran, then after a minute or so, started doing it again. With the boat places booked for winterizing for a while, having a hard time getting someone to look at it. And I need to get it running so I can also winterize. From the last post, could it be the coil? I am not very knowledgeable on voltages and amps and stuff, just enough to shock the crap out myself. Seems like I replaced the coil from SkiDim not too long ago. Thanks for any help!

Hugh,
You are going to get a shock off 12 volts. Start by checking all your connections including your battery cables. What made you think it was the ignition switch? Why did you put a coil in it? Don't start throwing parts at it without testing first.

hughman wrote: Ok, I had put a coil in it a few years ago when I got rid of the points. .

I highly susspect the EI conversion to be the problem with the poor running engine. Why did you put it in??? Put the point set back in!!!

Pete/Hollywood. Would his gauge as quit if the EI is the problem? Don't know if the fuse set up is similar to my 67? I could wiggle the wire going to one side of the fuse box and my gauges ignition would fail. Then move it back and it would be good. Ended up replacing fuse plate and an inline fuse for the ignition. Not saying it is his problem. Just asking the question more so I can learn. I know that checking with volt meter from ignition to cool will answer a lot of questions as well.
Thanks

Check out the Ignition circuit breaker too. The voltmeter would be handy for that.

Great leads, thanks so much. Did not get a chance to work on it last night, forgot about daughter's volleyball games. The fuse/circuit breaker concept does seem like it may be the problem the way it keeps "shorting" out. I have no idea where the fuses are located on my baby. Do not see anything under the dash or near the engine. Plus, I messed up my back changing the ignition key switch, so that does not help.

The red button is the main circuit breaker but, it will not reset by itself. You state that the engine and gauges wold come back on so something else is happening. Get that VOM and do some testing.

Small fusing or breakers will be at the helm. Did you check the main breaker with the VOM to confirm it's tripped?

A partially broken wire that is intermittently losing contact or a bad/rusted ground is my vote.
In that case, wire wiggling may in fact work.....lol
But you should have a voltmetre anyway.....they are cheap.
Here is a link to the wiring diagram for your boat

wiring diagram

Hugh - If you could post a picture of you dash, maybe we can help you more.

One thing to keep in mind, when you are dealing with the key switch, you are dealing will all positive side voltage.

-Switch your voltmeter to 12 volts DC,
-Put the black wire in the ground side on the meter, and
-Put the red wire in the positive side on the meter. Use the red hole one designated for 12 volt dc testing, sometimes they go in different places depending on what you're testing.
-This is where either alligator clip test leads, or a helper come in handy. (Also, why I prefer a test light for quick and dirty basic testing, they come with an alligator clip.) You want to solidly attach, or have the helper firmly probe the negative terminal on the battery, or other known good ground with the black probe and hold it.
-Now, use your red wire to basically poke around the key switch. The wires going in, and the wires coming out. You can't hurt anything, unless you actually puncture a gauge with the sharp probe
-One of the posts should always show voltage, whether the key is off or on. This is the battery input post
-One of the posts should consistently show voltage with the key on, and none with the key off. This is your ignition post.
-One of the posts should show voltage only when the key is turned to the start.
-Now, back to the always live post. See if you can hold the red probe there, and start giggling your suspect connections. If the voltage reading waivers, you are getting close to finding a problem.

Hugh,
Something tripped the main breaker. Are any of the fuses at the helm blown? Yes, the tripped breaker does indicate a problem since they don't trip by themselves. Now, the issue will be to find out what did trip it. What condition is your battery in? The main breaker typically is between the alternator and the battery. Has anyone done any changes to the wiring?

I guess I would tend to be somewhat suspicious of the add on electrical accessories. Especially since the basic dash wiring of these boats tends to be just robust enough to do what it has to do. Not much room for anything extra.

Of course, if this problem is just turning up now, after 7-8 years, I guess those things are less suspicious.

Now, do those accessories rely on the key switch in order to be able to turn on?

Hugh,
Have your battery load tested at the auto supply. Hopefully it isn't a deep cycle! It also would be a good idea to have the alternator and regulator tested. It looks like your fusing is in the dash to the left of the helm wheel.

is boat set up with volt meter or Amp Meter?