1995 GT-40 Fuel Pump/FCC conversion

Has any one converted a 1995 GT-40 to use the later model Fuel control cell and fuel pump?. My high pressure pump has failed and a replacement can not be located. I was looking at the RA080031 Fuel cell but unsure of how to plumb it in and what hoses would be needed. I looks like the FCC has two outlets for the fuel rails, where the current setup has one. Does anybody have a picture or diagram of the fuel lines?

Thanks
Trevor

Found a parts diagram and ordered the FCC and fuel lines from Nautique Parts Installed the FCC and new fuel lines about 2 weeks ago. My intermittent but getting more frequent hot start issues are now gone.

pictures of your conversion too, please    

I have taken some pictures, I will post them when I figure out how to do it I spent about 750 on the conversion.

Parts used RA080031 FCC
                     R090176 FCC Bracket
                     RA085064 Line rail outlet to FCC
                      RA085063 Line FCC to fuel rail
                      RA024175 Fitting top of fcc to fuel lines 2 req.
                      R024089 3/8 Barb to 1/4 npt 90 deg   2 req
Also need a 3/8 barb to 1/4npt fitting.

I left the low pressure pump in the stock location(just installed a r080018 the week prior)
I took out the original return all the way to the tank. Used about 12ft of3/8 fuel line to get from the tank to the FCC., The water hose to the manifold needed to be turned upward and lengthened for clearance on the FCC, it took about 18" of new 1"hose.I Cut off the original wire plug to the HPP and soldered on new wires and put on a mating weatherpack plug for the FCC

Nice job
Thanks for the info I'm sure it will help many in the future
Also where did you get the weather pac plug that mates to the new FCC plug?

If the old FCC is still available could we tear it apart. I would be glad to try and identify the electric pump inside it so future failures could be easier and cheaper for the owners.
PCM did not manufacture a electric pump, I am sure it was made by Carter, Airtex or Bosch.
They were the most common and are still available. I have one but really don't want to take a good one apart. Thanks.

I will open my old one up after I replace it and do some out of the boat testing with heat a source trying to replicate what's happening.
I'm thinking if I can make it act up with a heat source and if I take that heat away and it doesn't maybe it's just a matter of relocation instead of a $750 conversion. Then again maybe it's 20 years old and just needs to be replaced we shall see.

Links from Trevor
https://www.amazon.com/Delphi-Packard-Weatherpack-Terminal-16-14/dp/B004DVM7RG/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1469593543&sr=1-1&keywords=delphi+weatherpack

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Delphi-Weather-Pack-2-Pin-Sealed-Connector-Kit-16-14-GA-/221582395995

Pete you and Mark are confusing the 95's pump with a '96 and newer pump. There is no FCC. Here is the pump-



96 and up replace this pump with the FCC and it's internal pump -this is the pump out of the FCC-

I bought the '95 in '08 and don't remember having any problems until about 2 years ago.
The 1 to 2 year run could have been something to do with suppliers, contracts, costs who knows, who knows why CC did a lot of things they did.

Gary S wrote: Except it was most likely PCM's call not CC. Roy would know he was one of them going out and converting them.

Gary your right about that being a PCM thing.
I have a call into Roy now waiting on a call back.

Sorry about any confusing terminology. Both pumps in your pictures are nothing special in the automotive electric pump world. My point is they can be replaced by a similar pump that fits and gives the same service for much less money than some are spending.
I would be glad to help ID the electric pumps so we could get replacement pump part numbers listed.   If that is done already I should have read more first.
The Fuel Injected engines we have talked about use 39 PSI + or -, The manufacurers regulate this with the pressure relief valve in the fuel rail. As long as the pump puts out more than 39 PSI it will work well. There used to be a listed max pressure and gallons per hour flow rates for these pumps in the old pump catalogs, most of these could Max at more than 70 psi to maintain the constant 39 for the system so there is a lot of wiggle room on pump replacement. It just has to fit, flow enough fuel and more than 39 PSI.

Gun driver, if the electric pump is getting Hot the pump is shot. Since fuel runs through the pump at all times it is cooled constantly by the fuel the entire time the engine is running.   The fuel temp is the same as tank temp. That should equal outside temps most times.
A pump getting hot usually means the bushings inside are worn or damaged from running dry and the friction is heating up the pump. The only solution is replacement.
A dry start with a high pressure pump can damage the bushings in as little as 20 seconds run time. Another good reason for your 3 second fuel shut off wired in to all these systems.   This is why we all should train everybody in our house to NEVER run out of gas in our cars (boats) or run them on fumes.   Fuel Pumps are expensive.

I wish I could answer this but I don't know.   You may be right.
Does it make any odd noise while running? Usually if they sound good they are good.
Have you tried tapping on the pump to get it to jump start?
How many hours on this unit, maybe it is just time for replacement.
I hope it is not an electrical issue and I am steering the wrong way.
Have you checked the amp draw cold when it works vrs the amp draw how when it does not work?

Could a pump like this be wired in?

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/159001/10002/-1
Hi-Pressure Inline Fuel Pump•67 GPH @ 43.5 PSI 13.5V
•Approx. 5" L x 2-1/2" Dia.
•3/8" Male Hose Barb Inlet/Outlet
Made in the USA
Includes:
•(2) Cushioned Mounting Clamps
•Hardware Notice the ends are both threaded metal connections.

Looking at Trevor's post July 26th the top of the HPP has two pressure lines and a feed line at bottom of the pump.   I do not know the purpose for 2 pressure lines, pressure is normally regulated by the pressure regulator. Hydraulic hose shops could fab a hose as could many Truck Shops ( 18 Wheeler Shops ).

The pump shown has plenty of pressure and flow and threaded fittings with an all metal case, the black is an insulator to help quiet the pump.
Automotive High Pressure systems have a vacuum operated system that boosts pump pressure when you open the throttle all the way to offset the vacuum loss. When you are in cruise mode this vacuum induced pressure bump is taken away. Boats are never in a high vacuum situation because a prop is always loaded. I suspect this is the reason for two feed lines but we need to know more.
All your engine looks for is fuel at the correct pressure. If one of these could be hooked up with some minor changes a future replacement would be easy.
I did not spend a lot of time searching but I have yet to find one that feeds with two pressure ports and one inlet. All I know of are flow through designs which run very cool.
with one inlet and one outlet.   
Mark

If I understand this now correctly. The return line in this system is dumping fuel into the inlet of the HighPressure Pump through the second connection at the bottom of the pump.
If this is the layout this could be the issue.
Normal electric fuel pumps receive fuel from the tank only. The return line is separate and returns the fuel from the fuel pressure regulator direct to the fuel tank, a separate fuel run all the way to the tank. It is usually smaller in diameter than the supply line.

If PCM decided it was OK to return the hot fuel from the fuel rail to your high pressure pump to be pressurized again and pushed into the fuel rail again feeding your fuel injectors you might be seeing a heat sink issue and the fuel is vaporizing causing vapor lock.   My 95 would have the same system but I can't look at it right now. My garage is tied up with another short term project on my truck, new ball joints and the boat is temporarily covered with a tarp outside. I don't wish to untie for this check.   

This is the only Electric Fuel Pump I have seen that uses a Closed Loop system for the fuel return. In the 90's I went through a week long Carter Fuel Training class to learn Electric Fuel Pump technology.   I have seen most Automotive and Marine set ups.
I think we should create a solution for this. The pumps will last longer also.