1993 S.N..what to look for?

Wow, great deal for a solid '93, very nice find.

Thanks...dumb question but how do you know it's a right hand and mates to a 1:1? I assume that's direct drive?

more photos:   As you can see I need to do some wet sanding, buffing, polishing, and one spot that needs some gel coat repair where the hull MET the wheel well of the trailer.

So, is my engine a GT-40? I am just trying to find out as much info as I can, before I have to winterize it this fall. as I want to do it correctly. Get the "Timmy T" added, etc etc.

Hey guys, well finally took possession of my new to me 1993 NWZ nautique. Had my local shop do a thorough inspection and she passed no problem. Compression on all 8 cyl were perfect. I took a bunch of pics to post up here. They are in my files here, just not sure how to get them into this post. Anyway they hull needs a definite wet sand, buff, polish and new decals. Plus a couple areas need some crocket repair. As you'll see in one of the pics where they ran the boat onto the trailer fender and took a gouge out of the gel coat. Also gotta figure out horn, as it doesn't work, otherwise all else does.

Yep, been reading up all the FAQ's I can take in, until my brain starts to hurt! :)

I'll keep reading. I just want to be well prepared for ownership of this boat, especially with fall/winter in the not so distant future. I want to know how to change the fluids, filters, belts, plugs, winterize it properly, etc etc.

Thanks again for all the advice.

IAughtNaught......Sorry, I didn't mean "seal" it....I have had teak wood on boats in the past, and am familiar with the sanding and oiling process. I won't seal the wood. :)

Thanks for all of your guys help on my new boat. I am sure I'll have more questions before I even get it in the water.


Oh...I know one of my questions.....how to you start this boat OUT of the water? I am use to putting "muffs" on my outdrive for my outboards and I/O's....how do you do it with a Nautique??

Can you measure yours so I can get mine back to OE specs before someone finds out   

Mine spun too,so I tightened it I do know it has a nylon lock nut on it,so once it's loose it won't get any looser

desertskier wrote: They are designed to spin. Sounds like some have been over tightening the bolt to try and stop it.

If it was designed to spin why did they not use a shouldered bolt so it could not be over tightened ? If it were left loose would that not create a pressure point and damage the gel ?

flyweed wrote: So my engine says 5.8 HO on the shroud. Does that mean it's a Pro Boss? and is it then 285hp??

Carb' ProBoss was rated 285hp... But the shroud is not strong evidence. Take a picture of the end of a head, GT40 heads have 2 bars.

So my engine says 5.8 HO on the shroud. Does that mean it's a Pro Boss? and is it then 285hp??

They are designed to spin. Sounds like some have been over tightening the bolt to try and stop it.

TRBenj wrote: Orlando76 wrote: ^^ Not a tow point. What? The spool tow point just below the transom step plate? Of course it is. It consists simply of a bolt-through design with a fender washer on the back so I wouldn't overload it, but that's what it's for. What other use could it possibly have?

Here is the decal near mine. The problem that comes up using it,which has been posted here years back, is that the rope will eventually loosen it. Mine was loose when I got it,some have cut a piece of pvc pipe split it and snapped it over the spool. The rope then turns on it and it slides on the spool. Says right on there NO tubes ;)

Dan,
The picture you posted shows a distributor so you have no Pro-Tech to worry about.

I'm up here in the northwoods permanently since last October so send me a PM or email anytime