Starter problem?

It's your starter solinoid, the contacts weld themselves closed,usually caused by using a deep cycle battery. Check your battery make sure it's a starting battery not a deep cycle or a combo deep/starting and get a new solinoid.

Thanks for the quick feedback, I actually just put a new battery in the boat, this was the second time I have ran it with this battery. In the past, I was using an Optima N9934/78YEL, commonly known as a Optima Yellow Top. I have been getting just over three years of life out of a these batteries, so I requested something different this time. The guy at the store recommended the NAPA AGM Marine 9834M. I can load test the battery and check the resistance. As far as my background you asked about, I am a Mechanical Engineer for Chrysler my background is axles, transfer cases and hypoid gears, but I do have some basic electrical knowledge.

Do you know what the part number is for the solinoid or the starter? I assume at a minimum I will need a new solinoid.

Mille1sj wrote: Thanks for the quick feedback, I actually just put a new battery in the boat, this was the second time I have ran it with this battery. In the past, I was using an Optima N9934/78YEL, commonly known as a Optima Yellow Top. I have been getting just over three years of life out of a these batteries, so I requested something different this time. The guy at the store recommended the NAPA AGM Marine 9834M. I can load test the battery and check the resistance. As far as my background you asked about, I am a Mechanical Engineer for Chrysler my background is axles, transfer cases and hypoid gears, but I do have some basic electrical knowledge. Do you know what the part number is for the solinoid or the starter? I assume at a minimum I will need a new solinoid.

"Marine" batteries often wind up being deep cycle. Sounds like that might be the problem right there.

Sorry, I didn't mention the engine, it is a Ford 302 PCM.

I have the Optima Blue Top on my 1990 Four Winns I/O and plan on putting one in my S.N this fall. I've had that battery in my Four Winns for over 10 years now, and still going strong

Bri892001 wrote: I have an Everstart Maxx, group 65 .

Can't go wrong with this battery!!

Ken,
Notice I did not say the "M" word!! BTW, the X55 battery came from Walmart.

I happen to live in an area where there are several rebuilders. The problems come in when buying new and not realizing the engine is a reverse rotation requiring a reverse rotation marine starter. Another problem that can come up,but not in your case,is if you have an unusual engine conversion like a Holman Moody. Todays new starters have too long a nose and will not fit so rebuilding in either case would be a better choice. You will have to check to see price differences and if they can get it back to you in a reasonable time.to see what would be best for you.

KENO wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: Bri892001 wrote: I have an Everstart Maxx, group 65 . Can't go wrong with this battery!! Pete It's becoming obvious that you've gone thru some life changes recently Working at Home Depot and now you're agreeing with a WalMart battery recommendation

Lets be thankful for a moment and reflect what could have been if he'd had gotten a job at Autozone or MasterCraft

Steve,
How did the start relay test? Your first post was regarding the starter staying engaged.

Gary S wrote: It's your starter solinoid, the contacts weld themselves closed,.

I feel you are chasing the wrong problem. What ignition part did you check? The key switch making sure it wasn't stuck in the start position sending power back to the start relay coil?

Steve,
You mentioned you know some basic electrics so if you have a VOM (volt Ohm meter), check to see if the contacts are welded together as Gary first mentioned. They will be where the battery cable is attached to the solenoid and then the other cable to the starter itself. Sometimes the contacts will open after being welded closed. If so, a resistance check is needed to determine the condition of the contacts. Disconnect the cable to the starter. Engage the coil of the solenoid by turning the key switch to the start position. Ohm across the main terminals. If the contacts are good, you should get a near zero ohm reading. Report back to what you find.

To check the ignition, I just disconnected it. when I hooked the battery back up, the starter continued to crank. I thought since I was able to bypass the ignition, I could rule out it being stuck in the on position. When you originally mentioned the starter solenoid, I was thinking parts internal to the starter, I wasn't aware that this engine had a separate solenoid. That should be my next logical step working my way back to the starter. Its been raining here for the last few hours, so I haven't been back out to the boat. Worst case, ill check the resistance tomorrow morning and let you know what I find. If I am getting too much resistance, is the solenoid available at a local auto parts store (NAPA, Auto Zone, etc.)? Thanks again for all of the feedback.

I did check the battery cables and terminals. I did not find any issues with them. at either end.

I do have a terminal cleaner similar to that. I clean the connections at the start of each season. I will run the brush through again, I keep the connections clean.

Mille1sj wrote: when I turn the key, as if I were starting the boat, I get about 18 ohms.

8122pbrainard wrote: Steve, Engage the coil of the solenoid by turning the key switch to the start position. Ohm across the main terminals. If the contacts are good, you should get a near zero ohm reading. .

Time for a new starter relay. I do suggest getting one that's "marine" since they are ignition protected. NP (link above) or Skidim would be good sources.