Perko FlushPro and Raw Water Strainer

Strainer is really a good idea if you run in weedy water, typically they are mounted in the intake line as it comes across the rear of the engine.

Flush Pro's are fine and would go wherever you can install and access it easily, usually between the strainer and hull intake. Save yourself a few bucks and make your own Flush Pro, do a search for the "Timmy Tee", want to say member GaryS has posted the exact parts needed to build a Timmy Tee.

I think your correct Larry. Here is is another link

OK, I have a question about Timmy-Ts (R)   I know they work, they are proven. Sometimes when discussion comes up about them, people ask "isn't a valve needed between the timmy t and the thru-hull? And the answer is always no, not needed the water pump can pull the water the right way - away from the thru hull. Well why is it that we are always diagnosing cooling problems due to some microscopic pin hole in the water line, at a connection or mostly at that separator that prevents the pump from pulling. I have a hard time envisioning a garden hose filling up, absolutely 100 percent the 1" water line between the T and the thru hull. Seems to me that would be pretty turbulent flow sloshing through the hose that certainly includes a potential air pathway, at least as significant as some little pin hole leak at the separator. Convince me.

Dreaming is right on #1, it's easy to keep the engine cool at idle with no load.

There is no need to fill the cooling line/pump 100%. The tee will absolutely cause you to draw air (through the hull pickup). It still flows plenty of water to keep the engine cool and the impeller lubricated and that is all that really matters.

It is not an appropriate way to troubleshoot the cooling system.

Not all flush pro's fail prematurely but I have read many complaints about them causing overheats, either due to sloppy valves or cracked housings. KISS (and save yourself some $).

Thomas,
I don't see where anyone has asked you your intended purpose for the flush or T. You run in fresh water so a fresh water flush isn't needed. If the intent is running the engine out of the water, then it's a great idea. If your thoughts are for winterizing by sucking antifreeze then it's not a good idea. I do not have the Timmy T installed on any of my boats since I've always used the "fake a lake" plunger on the thru hull pick up and without problems. but hear nothing but good reports on the T I also do not have sea strainers on any of the boats but I run in clean weed free water.

I do have a fake-a-lake. If you use one and your in the boat
have someone outside the boat to make sure you don't knock it loose
when moving around in the boat. (Always worried about that)

Trice,
I agree the Timmy Tee is a less expensive way to get the same results. I installed one in my 2002. However, I had a Perko in my now sold 1980 and did not have any issues. I have attached a photo for your review. For a closer look, go to the d*ck Pope wing of the Lego Land / Cypress Gardens Museum in Florida to see the boat currently on display.



I hope this helps,

Donald

Gary, a steering wheel is purposeful... I'm not sure I'd say the same for the shut off valve. I used it once on Dad's '03 and promptly fried the impeller.

If you lock your keys in the car or house you never lock it again?

Gary S wrote: If you lock your keys in the car or house you never lock it again?

Not a good comparison Gary, but if locking my car was 100% unnecessary and the one time I did, I locked my keys in... yeah, i don't think I would do that anymore!

If you're using the same thick schedule PVC tee that I am, it's more robust than the waste water plumbing in your house... Does that fail often? The plastic elbows/barbs on the strainers CC has installed since 1986 are the same material. You don't hear of them failing. I recommend they be installed above the water line btw, a little gravity feed helps the RWP prime.

Those shut offs should only be closed in emergencies anyway. Don't screw around with it.

It official, winter has set in.

If every component was made of brass or steel, what kind of slalom wake would these boats produce, Gary? Over-engineering has plenty of downsides (cost, weight, etc). I suppose it's a miracle that none of our older, valve-less boats have gone to the bottom! Unnecessary hardware is unnecessary hardware, IMHO.

Wow, thanks to everyone!

My RH rotation Ford 351 PCM was removed from the boat when I bought it, it is the first CCSN I've owned, and I can't find clear pictures in the PCM manuals regarding configuration so please correct me if I have something out of place below.

"Original” 1987 CC raw water cooling system components and directional flow from hull intake to RWP inlet (1" wire reinforced hose used):

1. Through hull intake
2. Top of transmission cooler
3. Bottom of transmission cooler
4. Strainer (located near electric panel and rear starboard rocker cover with bowl down), (from strainer outlet, 1" hose downward to run between engine mount and engine block along side the oil pan)
5. RWP inlet (bottom)

The raw cooling water enters the transmission cooler on top not the bottom, correct?

I like the idea of having a clear, see through, strainer or flush pro in the system so you can open the engine cover and visually see water flowing in the system. I'm leaning toward the "by the book" drain and pour winterization method, the cheaper "T" without check valve /shutoff to block the through hall inlet for engine runs, and a clear strainer in the factory location for extra straining and the occasional flow inspection.

A special thanks to those who sent pictures!

Tom

Pete, given a choice, I'll always choose bronze. How much plastic do you have in your boats?