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1962 Interceptor transmission

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    Posted: August-22-2006 at 8:27am
I have a 1962 Compact Skier with a 170 Interceptor and a mechanical transmission. The problems are that neutral is actually only in neutral if I hold the shift level in one specific location, and the transmission is starting to slip under load. Does anyone know how to adjust the transmission, or who I should send it to? I am in western MA.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2006 at 8:59am
it may be an old mechanical paragon, is there a tag? I personally do not know of any other mechanicals in that time period, can you take a snap shot of it?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cmattoon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2006 at 9:19am
There is no tag, outside or in. No stampings or cast numbers that I have found. I'll photo it today.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cmattoon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2006 at 9:27am
BWB
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2006 at 12:45pm
chris, can you pop the top and snap a picture, it does kinda look like a paragon and they made many different style trans. the thing is, is they may have supplied the internals and the engine manufacturer may have supplied the case, I'll definitely be able to tell with the cover off
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cmattoon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2006 at 4:11pm
BWB
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2006 at 4:16pm
chris you might want to e-mail it directly to Eric so he can blow up the picture and have a better look, see what he says might be large enough already.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2006 at 5:21pm
definitly paragon guts, ixe or sao, still parts available, try adjusting the reverse also to possibly free up the nuetral, only try one notch at a time on the forward, a little goes a long way. if you adjust to much you may break the apply fingers
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-23-2006 at 9:47pm
if all else fails i have the org. tranny out of my '64 am. skier,think it is a " duromatic" replaced w/VDrive.complete w/mounts. should be a drop in affair,and not take away from the stock setup you have....boat dr
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skook Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-17-2010 at 11:23pm
Anyone know what the resolution was? I bought a 1962 Correct Craft Compact Skier w/ Ford Interceptor (same setup mentioned in post) this past July and I experience the following trans symptoms/issues: (1) trans slips while operating past 1200rpm, sometimes have gotten up to 2000rpm, (2) when in neutral, the trans is slightly engaged in forward, so basically when the boat is started in neutral, it wants to go forward (if engine is reved, the drive shaft won't turn at speed of engine, (3) if I pull the lever back, I find a spot where it is "not engaged" but it sounds like reverse is just starting to engage. I have some pics I'll post. I did not yet take the top cover off, but will do so soon to show everyone the guts for ID purposes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skook Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-17-2010 at 11:29pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-18-2010 at 10:12am
Andrew,
Pull the cover. You will find two adjustments. The reverse brake band is pretty obvious. Tightening it will give you the reverse. On the forward clutch pack, you'll need to rotate the drum untill you find a locating pin. Removing it will allow you to tighten the drum. (large threads on the outside of the drum). Tighten one knotch at a time untill the trans "knuckles" over when you push the shift lever forward.

Hopefully you haven't allowed the trans to slip to a point where the clutch plates have overheated and warped.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skook Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-18-2010 at 12:37pm
Would tightening the drum make the issue I have in neutral even worse (partially engaged)? Without knowledge of this transmission, and I have not yet taken off the cover, I'm thinking that the partial engagement in neutral problem could be potentially warped plates? What are the symtoms of having warped plates? All of the symptoms I described were there when I bought it, so the damage was done before me...and I hardly used it. I forgot to mention in original post that reverse works perfectly fine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-18-2010 at 1:47pm
Andrew,
The slight prop spin forward in neutral may be warped plates from slipping/overheating. You won't know untill you open it up and play with the adjustments. It's a "fine line" with the settings.

Where are the pictures of the boat?? We want them!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-18-2010 at 1:50pm
BTW, Do not use a synthetic oil or any friction modifiers in the engine (the trans uses the same oil). A good oil with a high ZDDP level such as Valvolene VR1 20-50 is a good choice.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skook Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-18-2010 at 11:48pm
Not sure what kind of oil was put in by previous owner, but I agree that its definitely worth changing to rule that out. I will pull the cover this weekend and have a look (and will post pictures). I suppose you're saying I won't be able to determine if the plates are warped with just a visual inspection? :( I'm not a speculative kind of guy, but if the plates are warped, I suppose I need to pull the trans completely out to rebuild? Are the parts usually available?

On a separate note, I read several of the threads on winterizing. I didn't see anything about older engines like the 62 Interceptor. Would you happen to know where the drains are on this engine and if the new best practice for even the older engines is to use AF? Previous owner said he just disconnected the hoses but it seems to me there will still be water in the block. I'm sure this is the hot topis/debate this time every year! Thanks for all of you help! Pics on their way.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-18-2010 at 11:58pm
There are 3 drains, one at the front of the block on the port side, one at the rear of the exhaust manifold, under the outlet, and one on the bottom of the water pump. Drain them and disconnect the hoses. I pour antifreeze into the engine but let it drain out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-19-2010 at 12:53am
Originally posted by skook skook wrote:

sometimes have gotten up to 2000rpm


I think thats how all 6cyl Fords run,right Steve   

Seriously tho guys are these trans clutch plates plain steel or do they have cork facings? I'm thinking a motorcycle oil might be good for the wet clutch plates.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-19-2010 at 8:52am
Andy,
Unless the plates are really warped, you may not be able to tell without pulling the trans. From the looks of the red rtv between the trans case and the engine, it looks like someone has already had it off. When you get the cover off, engage the forward and see if you can get a feeler gauge between the clutch plates. They alternate steel and most likely bronze in that model without any facing.

BTW, you need to drain the engine oil before you pull the trans.

Bruce is correct on the draining.

Plates should not be a problem. The trans is a Parragon.

Stick with a oil that's more traditional and very similar to the older oils like the VR1. People have problems when they put the fancy stuff in!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-19-2010 at 7:21pm
nice wooden windshield...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skook Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-19-2010 at 10:34pm
LOL I plan to replace it with a piece of flat plexiglass...or if I can locate an original/replacement for a decent price, I'd like to do that too...for now, need to get my trans working properly before I start bugging everyone on where I might find a 62 compact skier windshield replacement...although I'm all ears for good advice!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-19-2010 at 10:54pm
Andy,
Concentrate on the trans for now.

Regarding the windshield, that's going to be a real tough one. Hard to find and expensive if you do find one. Unless you plan on putting in the time and money to bring all the needed items back to original for a restoration, the windshield may not be worth it.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skook Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-25-2010 at 1:33pm

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 62 wood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-28-2010 at 2:47am
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

Originally posted by skook skook wrote:

sometimes have gotten up to 2000rpm


I think thats how all 6cyl Fords run,right Steve   



Ouch! Gary, actually, I got the old 6 banger up to redline a few weeks ago. Still has a high speed flat spot, but I think that is in carb adjustment.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 62 wood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-28-2010 at 3:03am
Andrew, do you know what type of rubber fuel line is run from the fuel pump to carb?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-28-2010 at 2:45pm
there is the one other adustment for the handle to keep it at the balance point of on the side, the weight will apply the forward and drag
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skook Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-28-2010 at 3:38pm
I think you misinterpreted what I was saying about 2000 rpm. The engine runs superb and has lot's of power and torque. It will easily run at a higher rpm. The problem is the trans slips at the lower rpms.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-28-2010 at 4:18pm
Andrew,
I mentioned the "knucking" over when you put it in forward. Does it or can you just push the shift lever easily into the forward position?

Have you checked to see what kind of oil is in the engine?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-28-2010 at 4:53pm
Originally posted by 62 wood 62 wood wrote:

Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

Originally posted by skook skook wrote:

sometimes have gotten up to 2000rpm


I think thats how all 6cyl Fords run,right Steve   



Ouch! Gary, actually, I got the old 6 banger up to redline a few weeks ago. Still has a high speed flat spot, but I think that is in carb adjustment.


Dammit steve what was the answer..how you gonna leave us hanging like that!
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