'79 SN Commander Build

Questions:

-I believe I need Autolite 764 plugs for the new heads?

-Any reason to buy replacement head studs? Is that good preventative or a waste of time and money?

-I plan to replace the fuel filter, but the current one is mounted down on the stringer and facing backwards so I can't get a number off of it. Anyone know what it should be? If not I can wait until I dig into things.

Off Trail wrote: Now for the cosmetic stuff - I've found a few threads on removable swim platform brackets - just one stupid question - Is my boat the same as a Ski Tique? I believe it is a standard '79 Ski Nautique, just want to make sure it is the same thing..... I'm also hoping to find a fold-down or fold-up spotters seat to access the front storage. Maybe I'm bad at searching, but I didn't find anything. Anyone have any experience with this?

Aaron,
The Tique is the shorter version of the Nautique.

Both never had folding spotters seats. The seats where fastened to brackets on the sole with threaded knobs making them adjustable fore and aft and reversible. Hinging won't gain that much space due to the foot "toe" board.

Another note, Since you haven't done heads you will want to pick up the proper sized tap for the head bolt holes. You will use this to clean out those holes. Also, wire wheel the threads on the bolts to clean them up if you are re using the bolts (which will be fine). You then will use normal motor oil on the bolt threads to ensure you are getting proper torque on the bolts. They catch and give inaccurate readings if you use dirty bolts/threads.

Another note, study the way Ford head gaskets go on. They are the same gasket but go opposite sides down on either side of the engine to properly route the water. Basically use the gaskets to block off the cooling passages as at the front of the block and keep the rears open. If you don't you wont over heat the water temp but you will over heat individual cylinders without knowing it.

As Ken mentioned on the fuel line, I was able to re bend the factory line on a 351/performer/stock spacer setup this spring and it worked just fine. Give that a whirl with your existing line.

Good luck on removable brackets. That guy is impossible to get ahold of.

Just did a 351 this past several months.
If not already mentioned, the EDL 2181 is taller than stock manifold. If you use the carb spacer, be sure there is room under motor box.

Thanks for all the responses!

Keno - Thanks for the heads up on the plate. Got the edelbrock plate and 2 more gaskets ordered. Question - Is there any reason to keep or leave out the carb spacer? I do not want to modify the engine cover so if the spacer creates a clearance issue is there a performance penalty for removing it?

phatsat67 - Thanks for the heads up. Any idea what size threads the head bolts are? Definitely planned to wire brush if they are messy, but didn't think of a tap.

Keno/phatsat - I'm looking at head gaskets on Summit Racing and they offer a couple thicknesses (.039, .041, .051) and a range of prices. Any recommendations?

Thanks Keno. Manifold gasket seems like a reasonable idea!

Got everything mentioned ordered, including a thread-cleaning tap set that has a 1/2"-13

Will remember to use motor oil on reassembly.

Agreed Pete. I’ve used cleaners and prefer a tap. Seems like it does a better job.

I've been trying to figure this out for a week by searching and really didn't want to ask the questions.....but

How the heck do I access the mufflers?   I don't have the boat in front of me right now, but last time I looked it over I couldn't find any separate floor panels, or even screws around the edges. It seems like one big solid piece that has been completely carpeted over. The boat does have the ski boxes on the sides, so maybe I need to pull those to find screws??

Does my '79 have the full fiberglass floor?

Every thread I have found just shows the stringers after the floor has been ripped out, so I can't figure out what step 1 is.

I would hope to pull enough of the floor to remove the mufflers and clean up the bilge, and then reinstall without having to recarpet/replace any of it. Not sure that is in the cards? If I have to pull the carpet, tempting to go with some seadeck to replace it....

8122pbrainard - I assumed you were from Minnesota based on your name, but just looked at your signature and saw Three Lakes. I'm from Wisconsin and spent summers in Minocqua skiing with the Bats.   I have several friends from Three Lakes and used to get over to the chain occassionally. I'm also the one responsible for getting the Bats to move their sponsorship to Nautique and Three Lakes Marine in the early 2000's when I was president of the club. Once I get this '99 all dialed in I plan to bring it back to my parent's place in Minocqua for at least part of the summer. Boating just isn't as fun in Colorado, and not many appreciate a boat like this!

Back to the task at hand - I'm very well aware of the stringer issues in the old Nautiques. Everything seems pretty solid in this boat, but I have not made it past shining a flashlight around in the bilge and tapping on things I could reach. The previous owner had an inboard specialist do some poking around (I don't know to what extent) and he was pretty confident everything is solid. All areas of the floor are solid as much as I can tell. The boat was owned by one family, and being a Colorado boat has always lived on a trailer - so it theoretically never had water sitting in it. Fingers crossed.

When you say 'opening up the sole' - is this a destructive process or can it be unscrewed and removed intact?   I thought I was going to avoid being one of those threads where my boat ends up stripped down to the hull!!!   But I do have a heated garage and 8 months of winter coming.....

Dang. So if I want to get into the back bilge more than the round access hole, I'm tearing carpet up and then tearing floor up....   Is there any chance of slipping the mufflers out the front without pulling the motor?

I just talked to the original owner and he said the boat is a '79 and was owned by some type of military camp in Indiana. They would buy 3 brand new boats every year, put a ton of hours on them, and put a new motor in at the end of the season and sell the boat with the brand new motor.   So, supposedly it is a '79 boat with an '80 motor. Don't think that impacts anything I'm doing, just a tidbit.

Watercraft Sales is the one. Can't remember the guys I worked with, but I think the main sale guy moved to Florida.

fanofccfan wrote: Interesting on the floor above the mufflers as my 78 has to my knowledge always had a separate floor

Aaron,
Now I'm not too sure about what's over the mufflers?? My 77 did not have a removable section. Tim should be by soon and I know he will have some input.

For OffTrail what's your HIN on the right side of the transom?

The last 2 numbers will tell you the model year

So, KENO - Yours came with copper tubes from the factory? Or were those added at some point? I'll get that HID when I bring the boat home in a couple days.

Great idea Joe, thanks. P.O. said he had it re-carpeted about 10 years ago, so I bet they just ran it right over the center panel and glued it down.

I'll do some investigation.   Thinking if I do cut, i will cut the carpet an inch or so onto the center panel, fold and glue the 1" left on the outsides down to the stringer, and just recover the center panel.   Maybe that would be a good place to test out some seadeck.

Copper pipes with carpet remnants tie wrapped around them front and rear for reducing vibration from hull contact was the setup in 76.

It was color coordinated though