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Overcharging the battery |
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NMiles77 
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Joined: August-22-2020 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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 Topic: Overcharging the batteryPosted: August-22-2020 at 8:09pm |
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Ok guys I am new to the forum. I have a 1976 Ski Natique. Resently the ammeter has been pegged to +40. There 17 volts across the battery when the engine is running. My thinking is the voltage regulator. The regulator on engine appears not to be original. I have since gotten the original design, however I need a wire diagram. I need to figure out how the original regulator is suppose to be wired. Does anyone have any thoughts?
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KENO
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Posted: August-22-2020 at 8:23pm |
 This wiring diagram shows the alternator and external voltage regulator wiring for a 351 Pleasurecraft engine from 1976.Some of the aftermarket regulators had different colors on the wires. Ignore the light on the brown wire, it wasn't used
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NMiles77
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Posted: August-22-2020 at 8:49pm |
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I traced out the green field wire to the alternator. I see the large orange output wire From alternator to the solenoid. I don’t see the black wire from alternator to VR. The new regulator, has red, green, black and ground. Do you have a picture of the correct voltage regulator on back of the engine? The new one came with a connector looks like plug an play. But the original connector is not on my boat.
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KENO
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Posted: August-23-2020 at 7:41am |
 
I guess one question should be ......do you have a Pleasurecraft 351, or maybe a Commander or Escort 351 in the boat The info below and the previous diagram pertain to a Pleasurecraft (or Waukesha) engine Here is a non artist's rendition of how the wires hook to the back of a Prestolite alternator on a 76 Pleasurecraft 351 and a picture of a voltage regulator. The 3 blade connector was standard on the engine, so yours has been "modified" over the years if that connector on the regulator has nothing to plug into in the wiring harness. The single wire with the ring connector on the end is purple, maybe yours is red? If you get it wired up right, your charging issue should be resolved. Since you have an ammeter, your big Orange wire goes from the alternator up to the ammeter, to the ignition switch and then back to the solenoid. See the wiring diagram earlier in this thread PS.................I hope the name on the side of the boat is spelled better than you spell it
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KENO
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Posted: August-23-2020 at 7:10pm |
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Nathan
I got your PM about the engine being an Escort conversion with a Motorcraft alternator so the diagram above isn't gonna be right. I'm not sure I've ever seen an Escort wiring diagram I sent a PM to somebody named Pete with an Escort so that he'll look at this thread and he can probably give you some info or pictures
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Gary S
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Posted: August-23-2020 at 8:02pm |
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You may be too late in the season for that. After he spent the last week cleaning the bilge he put the boat away for the year,it is after all the end of August
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KENO
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Posted: August-23-2020 at 8:36pm |
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Is that the before or after picture Gary?
Nathan has one of those White Escorts. Maybe along with Pete, Orlando76 could also give him some alternator/regulator info since he has an Escort too
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: August-23-2020 at 8:50pm |
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I'll take a look at my regulator and report back.
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: August-24-2020 at 7:51am |
 I have the old Motorcraft D4FF-10316-AA And it's wired exactly like the older wiring diagram Ken posted above. I see there are electronic type replacements.
BTW, Gary, I'll have to wait to clean the bilge. Maybe this afternoon the temp will get up and thaw the frozen water in the bilge.  |
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KENO
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Posted: August-24-2020 at 12:34pm |
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If your regulator looks like Pete's with I A S and F terminals on it, the picture below sholud explain the hookup to your Motorcraft alternator.
The Motorcraft alternator should have those same connections The big wire on the right of the picture is the 10 gauge output going to the ammeter. The I terminal is fed from the ignition switch Since you put in a DUI distributor the power for the I terminal would come from the same wire that feeds the distributor
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NMiles77
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Posted: August-24-2020 at 3:00pm |
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Gary, Ken thank you for the info. That is the voltage regulator I have on my boat. I got a replacement put it in. I need to take the boat down to the water to test it. The only differences from the diagram on my boat is terminal I is not connected and S is not connected to alternator stator.
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: August-24-2020 at 3:44pm |
Is the replacement you put in the same as pictured?
 Was you old regulator putting out the high volts and amps or is it the new one? Before you head down to the lake I suggest compleating the wiring otherwise the regulator isn't going to know how many volts it needs to send to the field. The field controls the aternator output. |
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KENO
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Posted: August-24-2020 at 4:46pm |
If only this picture showed the wires going into the I A S F connections and the wire colors, Nathan's life would probably be a lot easier Another inch lower with the camera Pete |
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: August-24-2020 at 4:49pm |
 How's this Ken?
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KENO
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Posted: August-24-2020 at 4:59pm |
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NMiles77
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Posted: August-24-2020 at 5:06pm |
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The old voltage regulator was putting out 17 volts a cross the battery at idol speed. The replacement Voltage regulator I bought is the new version of the pictured. There is no stator wire from alternator to the voltage regulator terminal S. When I look at the alternator there is +battery, - ground, and field wire. There is not stator connected wire. The S terminal on the voltage regulator had a wire I traced to the + input terminal of the electronic choke on the carb. So that wasn’t correct and made no sense.
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KENO
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Posted: August-24-2020 at 5:13pm |
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Nathan
Now you need to hope that Pete will look at the back of his alternator and see what wires are connected to what terminals. Maybe even another picture will appear There's a good chance that there's nothing hooked to the S terminal on the his alternator. There's a lot of confusing info on Motorcraft regulators/alternators depending on the year(s) they were used. And.........that S terminal going to the choke just might be right.(providing 12 volts to the choke coil)
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: August-24-2020 at 7:32pm |
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Nathan,
Have you tried the new regualtor yet? You said you were heading down to the lake to see how it works. I'll take a look at the backside of my alternator and get back.
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: August-24-2020 at 8:11pm |
 Brown on the field and black on the ground.
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: August-25-2020 at 10:44am |
Nathan, Does this new version have the same terminal designations as the old one I have pictured and Ken has described or does it just have wire pigtails? A piture of what you have sure would help. Again, have you tried the new one yet? If so, what are the results?
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NMiles77
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Posted: August-25-2020 at 2:25pm |
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Pete, the new version regulator has the exact same terminal lay out as my old. I will get some pictures, unfortunately the weather has not allowed a lake test yet. I will get back to this thread with pictures.
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burban65
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Posted: August-25-2020 at 5:01pm |
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Although still interesting..........These threads are not as much fun to read when Ken and Pete are working together in such harmony........just saying
 Yes, I did miss you guys (and this site) when it was down.............I actually had to start hanging with my wife (and talking to her) in the evening.........instead of being on CCF. I am glad things are getting back to "normal"
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SRB
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KENO
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Posted: August-26-2020 at 6:59am |
Burb Your wife is probably glad it's back too That picture of Pete's alternator is pretty good. He even took it off the mounts to get a good shot I think he probably knew I'd harass him if he didn't get a good picture Now we just have to see if the wire from the S terminal on the regulator goes to the choke on Pete's boat.
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: August-26-2020 at 7:57am |
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In order to avoid further harassment, I felt it best to bow to Ken's demands. Here's the confirmation that the S terminal on the regulator does indeed go to the electric choke. Since the age has blended the colors of the wires and I didn't want to tear into the harness, I thought it best to Ohm it out.
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KENO
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Posted: August-26-2020 at 8:23am |
Now that's teamwork What should we tackle next Pete?
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NMiles77
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Posted: August-31-2020 at 6:27am |
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Guys final got the boat back on the water. I had installed a new voltage regulator. When the engine is running 1000 rpms or greater the ammeter is still near +40. I am wondering if it the alternator. You guys got any other suggestions?
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: August-31-2020 at 6:43am |
What's the voltage at the battery?
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: August-31-2020 at 7:00am |
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Nathan,
Another thought: get an Ohm reading of the electric choke. I'll get mine and report back.
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KENO
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Posted: August-31-2020 at 7:11am |
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You could take the alternator and regulator to an auto electric shop and let the guy test them together or...............you could buy a 1 wire Delco style marine alternator and install that for simplicity. It's internally regulated, so no external regulator needed.
The 1 wire hookup is the output terminal that you hook your Orange wire to I'd put a 40 amp fuse at the output terminal to protect the wiring from overcurrent since the original alternator was about 40 amps max capacity and that's what the wiring up to the ammeter and back to the battery is sized for. You could also get a 3 wire Delco style with the same internal regulation and the wiring is just about as easy, you just need 12 volts for excitation of it's internal regulator. The 1 wire is self excited at about 1000 rpm or so and the 3 wire needs to have excitation provided Plenty of people have done the "Delco swap" Depending on the bracketry, minor mods might be involved If you were to look at DB Electrical part numbers ADR0106 and ADR0334 you'd see a 3 wire and a 1 wire and their prices I could post some pictures of both with the wiring hookup shown later if you're thinking about that route.
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KENO
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Posted: August-31-2020 at 7:16am |
Hurry up Pete, you should have it by now Probably right around 10 ohms and it draws about 1 amp when energized
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NMiles77 wrote: