time for new Manifolds

flyweed wrote:   I sure wish the new manifolds said PCM Marine Engines like the old ones.

Keno’s is better 

They haven't had those raised letters in years-that's why they have those style decals. Your old manifolds had individually cut for each letter decals. On a side note- your new manifolds are even different from the ones I bought just a year ago and I know they were back ordered awhile ago,wonder if they changed who's casting them?

Torque spec for the exhaust manifold bolts is 20 ft. lbs.

flyweed wrote: yeah, I ordered my manifolds in June..got them first week of August! I knew they were backed up, which was fine. I knew I wouldn't be doing the job until Fall anyway. Quick question, should I sand those areas on the engine where the exhaust manifold gasket goes? or just wipe down good?   Also, does anyone know if there are "torque specs" for the new manifold, or just tighten down, warm up engine and check for leaks and keep tightening?

Use to go to an old mechanic when I was in high school. Watch him install exhuast manifolds on a engine that way. Definitely old school. Great tip!! 

A couple of manifold to engine gaskets if they don't come with your order and 16 new bolts.

I am the OP of this thread, and the replacement was pretty straight forward.  I HIGHLY suggest you soak down your current manifold bolts with some PB blaster, or other lube and let it sit..then use a large/long socket and just "nudge" the bolt so it cracks loose a tiny bit...spray some more lube in and loosen just a tad more...then once you have the bolt backed out maybe a half a turn, tight it back up a half a turn, you just want to break ALL of the bolts loose before you remove them. This keeps the manifold flat against the engine surface, and takes away the chances of any "warping" of the manifold to lock the other bolts into place, at it keeps the manifold flat against the engine.   Then once all bolts are cracked loose and sprayed down, you can now start to remove them.  Once off, make sure you clean the engine mating surfaces of all old materials.  I  also used 2 bolt "studs" to line up my new gaskets and manifolds to slide on easier and keep everything aligned. It worked great.   

I fired my motor yesterday and found out I need too take my port side manifold to the machine shop to plane the face true.  The rear port blew the gasket upon startup.  I can see now with my trained eye () that the face is not like its supposed to be.  Live and learn.  Sorry to hack the thread but thought I may as well update my situation since I chimed in earlier!

The use of the bolts can sometimes also be referred to as weekend marriage saving device.............
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I think that if you grind those flush, you may end up with a manifold with no functional use..........but it'll look good except for the holes you may end up with.  

Tomahawk wrote: Thank you KENO. I didn't think of a frost plug. I guess the appearance will have to take 2nd place. I will confirm by checking through the end plug. I am now curious why the original didn't have it and now they do.

Trimming the decal was suggested. It will work and you are right, only I will notice. Still doesn't mean I wouldn't rather spend a lot of time fixing something that no one will ever notice. 

OK, I will get some Krylon 1932 too. see what matches better. If it matched your 76 then I don't doubt it will work for my 76. I saw your picture from that post and it looks like I will be going that way. I am getting excited for spring. I figure I have a month until the ice out.

I wish I could have purchased OEM manifolds that still had the PCM Marine Engines stamped into the manifolds. When I ordered my new ones this past summer they told me that indeed the replacement manifolds were a different manufacturer as well as a different manufacturing process. So whatever that's worth.  If my new ones hold up as long as the old ones did, I should be good. (28 years before the old ones rusted and started to leak).