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75 SW Restoration

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DenDen View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DenDen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-09-2024 at 11:53pm
Update


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.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67 ski nat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-10-2024 at 8:48am
Engine in the house’ !!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-10-2024 at 9:18am
I see vortec heads, an RR cam setup and a grille from my favorite Chev truck body style Wink

The grille looks kinda lonely up there
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bwinn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-10-2024 at 6:04pm
What’s a Ken Worth?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DenDen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-10-2024 at 10:51pm
Slightly more than a Keno!!



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DenDen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-26-2024 at 12:11am
Progress!!!






Ran short on time.
Only got it set in.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DenDen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2024 at 10:15am
Here’s the latest update
Stuck on the wiring right now
But should have it ready to go by the weekend.
Hope to break in the camshaft .














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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2024 at 10:45am
Thanks for sharing your work!

just one point of order, you likely already understand the intake filter will be comical to field service in that location?
also, without the initial loop high, any failure of a good bunch of downstream components and connections would be catastrophic when moored? 
"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DenDen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2024 at 2:10pm
I was hoping someone would look at that and tell me what I did wrong.
The old set up, ran along the very bottom, and did not have a strainer on it
Would it be wise to put a valve somewhere?
I have not really seen very many ski boats and do not know what they do.
I was more concerned with the seawater getting to the pump more than anything.
I believe this set up should actually fill the pump up if the boat is in the water.
I’m thinking a failure of anything under water level would be catastrophic. And the water level is just below the bottom of the exhaust.
Would a loop that went almost up to the bottom of the floor do any good?
I am open for any suggestions someone has.
The boat will probably never sit in the water very much, but you never know
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2024 at 4:57pm
Originally posted by GottaSki GottaSki wrote:


just one point of order, you likely already understand the intake filter will be comical to field service in that location?
also, without the initial loop high, any failure of a good bunch of downstream components and connections would be catastrophic when moored? 

Yeah, what he said

Here's a picture from your "sea water mystery" thread.

It's how CC did it, with a loop up and over the transmission and the filter right side up.

That way you maintain a good loop seal for the pump to prime itself pretty much instantly when you start the boat and it'll suck through the intake with no problem.

And an additional bonus is that you can unscrew the strainer without sinking the boat due to water gushing in. Wink

If you put a ball valve shutoff at the hull inlet, you could shut it to prevent any water from getting in while emptying the strainer etc.

The flip side of that is that you can shut it for one reason or another and forget to open it again and get a good overheat job going.

Kinda one of those things you can see both sides of the argument, so it turns into a personal decision.......how's yer' memory?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DenDen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-05-2024 at 1:20am
I went back and reread the prior post.
Now I’ve got some questions and it may be time for a phone conversation with you Ken.
Maybe we can talk tomorrow
Or I guess that would be later today
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-05-2024 at 7:32am
if i may add,
I've found that boats with a loop of any sort fair better with being on a lift, it keeps the impeller wet and primed like a sink trap.

Boats with a flat hose tent to eventually drain off and have a dry start and slow prime each launch, frag through a couple impellers a year.
"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-05-2024 at 7:53am
Originally posted by DenDen DenDen wrote:

I went back and reread the prior post.
Now I’ve got some questions and it may be time for a phone conversation with you Ken.
Maybe we can talk tomorrow
Or I guess that would be later today

Call anytime today Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DenDen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-06-2024 at 2:20pm
I have a question regarding the dipstick
Mine is on the left side because it’s an older block
With this style of manifold, I would like to see how the dipstick is supposed to look
Maybe this type of manifold was never put on a left-hand dipstick?
Where it is I’m pretty sure it’s gonna hit the motor cover










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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-06-2024 at 4:49pm

Kinda looks like the dipstick would be sticking out far enough that the engine cover wouldn't close without bending/breaking the tube.

Last time I ran into that problem, I took the dipstick out and had good clearance from the tube to the engine cover, so I took a vacuum cap and put it over the tube and stashed the dipstick in a good spot and when I wanted to check the oil, I took the cap off and put the dipstick in.

I had to shorten the tube about and inch and did the same with the dipstick and made new markings 

It's been maybe 10 years or so........I guess it's probably become permanent  Wink

Ps............the zip tie wire separators get   Thumbs UpThumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DenDen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-07-2024 at 12:10am
Thanks Ken that will work,
Only I was wishing for another (Miracle)

I ran into the problem of the weather being so great it’s difficult to work inside!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DenDen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-08-2024 at 12:20pm
Update:
I cut off the dipstick so the handle doesn’t even stick out much. Will remark the full line when I can.
New picture of my water strainer, thanks for everyone’s help.





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-08-2024 at 7:44pm
Alright Den

Are you trying to see how many hose clamps you can use on one side of the exhaust system? Wink

I think I see 10 in the picture of the left side manifold (and no coil wire)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DenDen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-18-2024 at 1:42pm
https://ibb.co/j389dTn

We got the motor in the boat got the cam broke in.
Bought a new Holly carburetor to find that I need a new wedge plate underneath of it
I’m assuming it’s a 15° angle one like the picture shown above. This one on eBay will cost me almost $200.
Is anybody got something like that laying around that I could get or less money.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DenDen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-18-2024 at 1:45pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DenDen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-18-2024 at 2:37pm
I decided to measure the one that came with the boat on the 307 which was a Rochester Quadra jet.
I get 10°
Does anyone know what angle these carburetors are to be mounted at?
I understood the motors were at 15°.
I’m not even sure that is correct.
Once again, I need some help from this forum
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-18-2024 at 4:03pm
Hold on there Den Den

I'm thinking that you have a Summit intake with the Holley/Edelbrock bolt pattern for the carburetor.

If that's the case just bolt the Holley on and be happy.

All those PCM Fords over the years had no angled spacer for the carburetor. They had a 1 inch spacer with no angle to it and those Holleys worked just fine.

Sometimes a slight lowering of the front float bowl was done by people because of the engine's mounting angle, but that was about it.

Since a Holley carburetor is kinda dumb and doesn't know whether it's a Ford or Chevy under it and the mounting angles are the same I'd go without one with the Holley. Wink

If you just gotta have a spacer, I'll dig up the part number for one that I used before, that was a whole big bunch cheaper and had around a 7 or 8 degree angle or maybe a little bit more. ( it came on an engine with an Edelbrock carburetor if you're wondering why I had an  angled spacer)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DenDen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-18-2024 at 6:28pm
Thanks for the answer Ken.
The last boat I had was a 351 with a Holly but I couldn’t remember how it was set up.
My son and I decided to just purchase two 5 degree plates, and put them both on for a total of 10.
I don’t see why this would cause any problem, unless someone else can think of a reason not to.
To update our progress as I mentioned earlier, we made it through the cam break-in with no problem.
The Almost 5 gallons per minute water supply was just barely enough, when the thermostat opened that would cause the exhaust manifolds to heat up to about 120°. and then they would
cool right back down to touch.
We could tell when the thermostat opened because we have clear hoses and the water would become dirty .
Nexts; tune it up and take it to the pond to see how the circulation pump works
After that, I will put the interior in and get ready for a warm day to go to the lake.
I will take a bunch of pictures between now and then to post.
PS
our weather is turning cold for the next little while

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-19-2024 at 5:11am
Originally posted by DenDen DenDen wrote:

Thanks for the answer Ken.

My son and I decided to just purchase two 5 degree plates, and put them both on for a total of 10.
I don’t see why this would cause any problem, unless someone else can think of a reason not to.


You're gonna have some fun with the mounting studs especially the rear ones.

You have to bend them a little for a wedge and I'd figure a wedge sandwich will take some creative multiangle bending to have everything lined up with the carburetor mounting holes.

I guess you just gotta have a spacer (or two) for whatever reason  Wink

PS..............here's a link to the 8 degree that I mentioned earlier

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DenDen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-19-2024 at 1:45pm
Thanks
We knew about the bending of the studs, the Rochester Quadra jet that was on it had much longer studs in the back.
I think we got it figured out
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote swilliams Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-19-2024 at 4:00pm
Den, you may have addressed this but did you use the same distributor that came off of the 307? If so you may need the stronger advance springs for that 350. I know OMC had different springs for the different hp ratings. The advance weights were the same but Mallory had I believe three different models. Steve
1976 Martinique,350 Omc. 1975 Glastron/Carlson CV16,115 Merc.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DenDen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-19-2024 at 7:24pm
Yes, I have the exact same distributor that was in the 307.
When I get ready to officially time, the motor up, I will see what we have advance wise.
If I remember correctly, it only advanced 27° at 3500 RPM.
I am thinking the total advance should be above 30 maybe 32
The only timing we did so far was to set it at 20° BTC @ 2000 RPMs while we were breaking the cam in

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-20-2024 at 6:56am
Originally posted by swilliams swilliams wrote:

Den, you may have addressed this but did you use the same distributor that came off of the 307? If so you may need the stronger advance springs for that 350. I know OMC had different springs for the different hp ratings. The advance weights were the same but Mallory had I believe three different models. Steve

Seems to me that Den's distributor will be fine and it's pretty easily adjustable as far as getting your desired initial and total advance.

His engine isn't exactly what GM/OMC built in the 70's either with his new heads and cam

Maybe OMC had some little spring differences, but if you were to look at something like let's say, a DUI replacement distributor for example, they sell you the same distributor with the same decent curve for a 305, 350, 454.......no difference. If you want to change the curve, that's up to you.

Got any charts of those advance curves in you OMC manual? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DenDen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-08-2024 at 12:57am
Latest update
Got nice enough weather to try the boat in the pond
The only thing we found out is that it would not draw water through the system that I have shown above.
While it was in the pond, I eliminated everything but a hose directly from the inlet to the transmission cooler.(starting to get smart and plan ahead.)
That seems to work really well. So back to the drawing board.


As you can see in the pictures to follow a rerouted the line to stay as close to the bottom of the boat as possible.
Today it was back to the pond, it worked perfectly.
As soon as the boat was in the water the line and the strainer filled completely up. On startup it drew water immediately and continue to do so as it idled.
Everything seems to work well as best we could ascertain in the pond. The pictures show the interior only. I will take some pictures and videos when I get it out of the shop and to a lake. (hopefully very soon)



















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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-08-2024 at 8:21am
Looks like you're getting there.

Whatever works for getting the water flowing through the pump is good.

But..........from the "lets keep DenDen safe department" , your Neutral Safety Switch on the transmission is just kinda there with no wires hooked to it.

That means you must be able to start the engine with the shifter at full throttle in Forward or Reverse as an example.

Since that's not really a good thing to be able to do, if you need some help with that, it'll be pretty easy to explain how to wire it in. Wink 

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