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1981 sea nautique transmission and rudder question

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Live2fish View Drop Down
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    Posted: March-01-2024 at 12:13am
Hi guys I recently acquired my first Nautique. It’s an 81 sea Nautique with 351W power.

When buying I was focused on the structure of the boat and somewhat rushed by my pops who I brought along to help look over the antique engine haha.

We were land locked about 45 mins from the nearest water so we didn’t get to put it in the water but rolled the dice.

My questions start here:

While the engine idles in neutral the prop is spinning as if it is in gear, is this normal or an issue? It does “click” into forward and reverse and while tied up to the dock it is spinning but not creating the same thrust as when clicked into gear

The boat doesn’t respond to any rudder response when reversing which makes me believe the rudder is too small (reinforcing my original visual suspicions )
Does anyone know how big the correct rudder should be on the 23?

Are there replacement larger rudders available?

What size shaft should the prop shaft and rudder shafts be?

How do I find transmission ratio? Should I repack with dripless packing or use a pss dripless

Last question is

Does the 351 fuel system use a return line or is it possible to put a fuel sensor in line to monitor fuel burn?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-01-2024 at 8:54am
Welcome to CCF and Correct Crafts.
Your transmission issue is called dirty neutral.  There's normally nothing you can do about it except rebuild the transmission.  Try changing the fluid and if your packing is leaking more than a few drops per minute, try tightening up the packing nut.  Most people live with it,

Inboards don't steer in reverse; they might pull in the direction of the rotation in reverse. Just got to get used to it and learn how to drive it.

There should be a plate on the transmission that identifies it and may have the ratio,

Your fuel line is hokey if it has an outboard bulb on it.  It should be replaced.  


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-01-2024 at 2:09pm

It must resemble this thing in the picture Wink


Like Riley mentioned, there should be a tag on the transmission in front of the dipstick like in the picture below


Most likely tells you it's a Borg Warner 71C also called a 10-17 in later years

They make fuel flow monitors for carbureted boats....Google will help you.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Live2fish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-01-2024 at 3:12pm
I’ve run plenty of larger inboards that steer in reverse. I mean this boat has 0 control in reverse and the propwalk is bad. I’m curious if the rudder has been replaced and if so with a smaller rudder as it looks tiny for the boat

Anyone have pictures or measurements of how large the rudder should be?

Also how should the fuel system be set up in this boat?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wilhelm Hertzog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-01-2024 at 4:47pm
There are far more knowledgeable folks than me on here when it comes to setting up fuel systems, but I have a primer bulb in my fuel line between the tank and the pump. I find it useful and doesn't cause any issues.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-01-2024 at 7:55pm
Here's a link to some light reading that might answer some of your questions. It deals with a Fish Nautique but not much differencein the mechanical stuff.


The best way to be sure what you have for shaft sizes (prop shaft and rudder shaft) will be to get a little dirty and do some measuring.

If you're wondering about the size so you can order packing, order 3/16 and 1/4 and get enough of each to do both and you won't go wrong. Take somebody's word about what you're gonna need and you may not be happy. There wasn't lots of consistency

Instead of asking for pictures, take some and post them here and you'll get more help that way. 

Fuel system is like most inboard or IO boats.............tank, antisiphon valve, maybe a fuel filter, mechanical fuel pump on that vintage of your engine, then up to one of those antique carburetor thingies that you'll probably be getting familiar with.Wink

No squeeze bulb necessary

Run it like MrMcD said with a portable tank direct to the fuel pump to help narrow things down. The portable tank needs to be vented so that the fuel pump doesn't start wheezing and running out of pumping ability. The installed tank is vented also for the same reason.

And,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,anything that's been said earlier about v hull CC's backing up is accurate Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Live2fish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-01-2024 at 8:50pm
I’m assuming the prop shaft is 1 1/4” after measuring it with a pair of calipers

The rudder in the thread you linked looked much larger than the rudder on this boat.

I will take some pictures and play with it some more this weekend. With the primer bulb you can hear the anti siphon jiggle

The bulb is between the tank and the fuel water sep then it crosses over to the engine.



I have no idea where to start with carbs or how to even mess with it. I will try hooking up a gas can and running it from there.

How do I drain/fill the trans and what does it take? I read if they are over filled they will spin in neutral. I think I cooked the cutlass with it spinning while on the fake lake. I will have to pull the shaft and replace that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2024 at 8:49am
Carburetors............buy one of the variety of Holley tuning/rebuilding books that are out there. The paper version that you can have right in front of you when you're working on it. That's assuming you have a Holley since that's what was original.

Draining the transmission is usually done by sucking the fluid out the dipstick hole with a hand pump, vacuum pump etc. There's an actual drain if you read the manual, but it's awkward to get to.

 Dexron 3  or Dexron/Mercon ATF work good in the transmission  .About  2 quarts depending on cooler capacity

Being overfilled and having a dirty neutral like you have is just wishful thinking, hoping for an easy fix, but you'll have clean fluid in it when it needs to come apart for a rebuild Wink 

Or you live with it like mentioned and spray water on the cutlass bearing if you're running it on the hose, so you don't kill the bearing
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Live2fish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2024 at 5:26pm
Is the “dirty idle” an issue that needs to be fixed? I can live with it if it’s not a real issue but I plan on using the boat a lot and don’t want to end up stranded somewhere bc the transmission let loose or something
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2024 at 11:40pm
Some transmissions run for years with a "dirty neutral".  I can be a bit annoying to have the boat always trying to move forward when the engine is running...almost like those PWC things.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Live2fish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2024 at 3:17am
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WwQsbPXn5wJFNXRz7

This is the current rudder it seems too small does anyone have a picture of a rudder from a fish nautique or similar 23ft cc?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote DayTony Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2024 at 6:47am
When i had my fish nautique everything i read about them pointed to them coming with the standard CC 11A rudder, but I've always thought that to be either, wrong data or horrible design on CCs part.

I bought and put one on since what mine originally had was bent, and with the 11A it handled like garbage in any current and was unacceptable to me.
I eventually made a new rudder as a test and it made low speed handling much better, compared to the 11A that i had picked up. I believe i still have it in the garage because i ultimately sold it with the 11A and a recommendation of having a new one built. 
I will get some dimensions for you if you in case you want to have one made up.
Edit* here's some pictures of it in this thread.

In reverse you will not be able to do much in the way of steering.  The deep vee especially doesn't like to move sideways. 

My fish had a 1-1/8 shaft and i had very good luck spinning the acme 524.
You may want to double check your shaft dimensions. because i believe the sea and the fish were the same. which should make yours 1-1/8 The wheel that's on it should have some identifying features either on the hub under the jam nut or near the root of the blade. 
1988 Barefoot nautique-454
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Live2fish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2024 at 11:54am
Yes I would love some dimensions

Thank you! I would like to have any kind of control to pivot the boat in reverse to get out of our slip
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2024 at 5:54pm
Current
2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited

Previous
2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow
1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow

Aqua skiing, ergo sum
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DayTony Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-06-2024 at 4:43pm
10.25 length from edge to edge.
14" total height of the rudder blade.


1988 Barefoot nautique-454
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Live2fish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-07-2024 at 7:08pm
On a scale of 1-10 how big of a difference in handling did you notice? I’m talking with local rudder shop about making a rudder but the cost is high and I’m weighing the options
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DayTony Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-08-2024 at 6:41am
I don't know what kind of conditions and currents you get on the west coast but out here on the east coast and with the type of fishing i do(lobstering and striper mostly) i needed low speed maneuverability so the larger rudder did make a difference for me. if all you care about is going fast the 11A is probably your better bet.
No fisherman in history has ever come home in a 1/4 following sea and said,"Man i wish my rudder was smaller."
 
If you want that rudder to try out for performance/size I am open to offers. it's just sitting, waiting for me to cut it up for another project. 
If you keep up with the zincs and keep good bottom paint on it you'll prob get a decent life out of it. 
But that blade is carbon steel so don't expect it to last a lifetime. The rudder stock is stainless.  

And yes, with prices of material now, i would expect a build-new rudder of all stainless will be close to the $1000 mark.
I do have the capability of building one out of all stainless if you want me to look up material and give you a quote feel free to message me. I would need to confirm some specs like stock diameter and linkage configuration for steering.

You can also search places like ebay for used chris craft, blackfin, shamrock and similar rudders would be cheaper than build new.
1988 Barefoot nautique-454
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Live2fish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-10-2024 at 8:09pm
Speed is the last thing I’m worried about with this boat it’s becoming a work boat so it needs to be maneuverable

If you want to shoot me a stainless quote let me know. It’s a 1 1/4” shaft according to the rudder in place now.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Live2fish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-05-2024 at 1:05am
So we were running her around yesterday and after new cutlass + packing and trans linkage adjustment we had a good idle without any spin but now we have 3 speeds of forward.

Forward = fwd
N= fwd
R=fwd

Facepalm looks like I’m pulling the trans and learning how to rebuild it. Any pointers?

I’ve been looking for a rebuilt one but need help there too. The belts turn to the left when looking at the engine and R hand prop rotation. Anything special with the trans or ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-05-2024 at 5:12pm
The link below is a good disassembly video and you can continue on to part 2, the assembly video

link 

If you're wondering about buying a rebuilt one, the pump on the front can be indexed to match your engine rotation, so the same B/W transmission can work behind a normal or a reverse rotating engine with the pump indexed correctly.

If you don't index it correctly, you'll have 3 speeds of neutral Wink

Do a search here on CCF on transmission pump indexing, lots of reading, some is right and some isn't right, but ask any questions you have and we'll keep you straight
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Live2fish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2024 at 8:12pm
Thank keno

I was able to use a sharpie trick to get the numbers of my trans

It’s a 10-17-001 is it worth rebuilding or should I pick up a cheap 003/4

Or I also found a 10-18-002 that looks real clean would it be worth picking up and going thru? It should fit just heavier duty version?

What trans cooler do I need to order to replace the one I have after I get it fixed? The one in there seems really small only 5” or so long I don’t know if it’s keeping everything cool enough under load with all the boat loaded down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-07-2024 at 8:22am
What you have now is worth rebuilding

The 10-18 is about an inch (.94 inch according to Borg Warner) longer than a 10-17 so you have to account for that inch somewhere. The extra length is behind the mounts

Maybe the shaft can go back about an inch, maybe it'll need to be shortened about an inch depending on your prop/rudder clearance.

I'd probably stick with what's in it now getting a rebuild and that way there won't be any issues with different shaft coupling sizes that you'd need to resolve..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-07-2024 at 8:57am
Getting back to your "3 speeds of forward", may be a silly question but have you made sure it's not just a broken shift cable or cable end at the throttle control or at the transmission end?

Maybe you've already done it but disconnecting the cable at the transmission and shifting it locally at the lever is quick and easy to do.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Live2fish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-07-2024 at 9:37am
Ya unfortunately it still shifts

Goes from
serious fwd
Idling fwd
And reverse with any throttle = fwd

Had to get it back to the dock I’m hoping we didn’t damage too many internals as that would be a death sentence to the project. Already got the veto on dropping much more $$ into it and 5k for a brand new trans isn’t going to slip past the accountant haha
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Live2fish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-24-2024 at 10:39pm
So I pulled the trans took it in and had it rebuilt so I didn’t have to deal with any screwups on my end and I actually ended up finding a clean 2000s era trans for a good deal I ended up having done up. Got it all re assembled and ran into alignment issues well I’m not sure if they are issues but I’m trying to realign the boat since I got new mounts as the old ones were seized up.

Any tips tricks or anything? I have to try and scoot the engine over I think letting the shaft rest and lifting straight up I’m left with a larger gap on the port side than on the stb side with even gaps on the top and bottom
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2024 at 6:16am
Make sure you’re aligning the powertrain to the point where the shaft spins freely.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2024 at 8:11am
Originally posted by Live2fish Live2fish wrote:



Any tips tricks or anything?


Watched any good  videos lately?

Here's a couple that should help you  Wink

link
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