Help w/ first winterization

winterization, what is that? just kidding! don't do that in south georgia, other than draining water and putting a light under the motor on the 4 or 5 nights a year it gets under 32 degrees.

Dan, Do you have the PCM manual? The job is only intimindating the first time! You need to think engine/cooling system and go at it. There should be pictures in the manual. You will have both sides of the engine, both exhaust manifolds, the water pump and trans cooler.

fixitjim wrote: I drain everything but the transmission cooler. Never thought about that. I have been winteriziing my 93 Ski Nautique for 13 years and never had a problem. Is there a plug or hose to disconnect?

Some have a drain plug, but its easier just to pull the bottom hose off.

Dont forget the drain at the bottom of the elbow between the thermostat housing and circ pump.

Thanks for the incouragement guys. I think I understand everything with the cooling system(draining the block and manifolds) pumping antifreeze through, fog the carb and cylindars but what I am supposed to do with the trans cooler??? I brought the boat to a shop to winterize it last year and I don't think they really did much. Some further explantion on what to do with the transmission winterization would be nice. Thanks!

TRBenj wrote: Dont forget the drain at the bottom of the elbow between the thermostat housing and circ pump.

I didn't get into alot of details so this is a good point. There should be a picture of this in the manual. It is a "U" shaped casting on the front starboard side of the engine.

While we are talking about draining, I'd like to mention the addition of drain cocks. It makes things very easy after you install them. Use the more expesive cast brass ones with the removable stem. The removable stem makes it easy to probe for sand plugging up the hole. Do probe the holes with a piece of wire.

8122pbrainard wrote: TRBenj wrote: Dont forget the drain at the bottom of the elbow between the thermostat housing and circ pump. I didn't get into alot of details so this is a good point. There should be a picture of this in the manual. It is a "U" shaped casting on the front starboard side of the engine. While we are talking about draining, I'd like to mention the addition of drain cocks. It makes things very easy after you install them. Use the more expesive cast brass ones with the removable stem. The removable stem makes it easy to probe for sand plugging up the hole. Do probe the holes with a piece of wire.

Here's the drain on the "U."



Pete makes a good point on the strainer, though I dont believe they were installed at the factory in '82. I remove my strainer and RWP and store them inside (impeller removed) for the winter.

I think the petcocks on the manifolds are more trouble than theyre worth. Theyre expensive and can easily clog with rust scale or sediment. A piece of step flashing is a good tool to keep the water off the carpet when you drain the manifolds.

8122pbrainard wrote: I think you may be thinking about the drain cocks you typically find on the bottom of a radiator.

No, Im thinking of the quick-drain ones offered by SkiDIM.

Whats the advantage of the drains youre using, Pete? Do they just eliminate the need for a wrench? Looks like you'd still need step flashing if you didnt want the manifolds draining onto the carpet.

Even if Mercruiser is using them, I dont believe PCM or Indmar are.

Tim, Wow! I can certainly see what the concern on plugging is on the "drains" that Skidim sells. I wouln't use them on a engine with 2 raw water strainers! The advantage is yes no tools are required plus because when the stem is removed, it is very easy to screw back in due to the straight threads on the body and stem. Tapered treads aren't needed for a seal because there is a tapered seat in the bottom similar to a flare fitting. With a standard pipe plug with tapered threads, it can be a challenge to get them started without cross threading at times. I have had to chase treads with a tap from people goofing up the threads and plugs. I'm used to older boats before the days of the Raw water strainers and am always amazed at the amount of sediment that will settle at the drains. I've even seen cracked manifolds from "mechanics" not probing the hole when winterizing.

I like the step flashing idea but I have always found a small coffee can to work too. I have the small can with me anyway to use to pour in the antifreeze instead of out of the gallon jug.

I have a 1984 Mustang 17 that my Dad bought new. It has a Ford 302 from the factory. The right side of the engine block doesn't have a drain cock at the rear of the engine at its lowest point. The drain cock on that side is forward, at the high point, so the water doesn't drain out properly. Does anyone have a good answer to my problem? Is there a way to install a drain back there? I have been using a rubber freeze plug on the rear most sand casting hole, but, getting it out is very difficult. It gets stuck and won't come out. I am looking for a freeze plug with a drain cock in it if possible. Anyone have an idea?
Joe Calcagno
joe@rarecorvettes.com