Where is my oil going?

AFR aluminums,(came with the unfinished not fired car) not radical, just fast and turn key, trouble free, i never F-d with TPI and and I am a touch in the dark with it. I dont want to go to much and kill this thing

79Tique wrote: 79N, we must have posted at the same time please see the post above your last. Gabe

got it, only thing I would do is pull the valve covers and make sure the oil passages are clear so the oil can drain back down into the pan is has to happen for the oil to leak past the seals and blow smoke on start up.

since the PO ran it hard and did poor maintance the rings are worn and it's sludged up so it's going to burn some oil deal with it and enjoy the boat until you are down on power and it's time to rebuild, doing the heads are only going to do nothing, yea the valve guide seals will be new, but if you remove the oil laying on top of old seals then it's not going to blow smoke like it does at start up and you've only spent 20 bucks on valve cover gaskets.

So my .02 pull the valve covers look for sludge look for clogged oil returns, look for oil dripping as soon as the covers are removed, if you see any of this then clean the passages and flush the motor to clean the internals and call it a day until it really needs a rebuild might be 5-10 yrs might be next season depends on how bad it is and you'll know pretty quick by just looking instead of jumping into the unknown and assuming what it needs.

So all you realy need is to replace the plugs sooner and add oil, but be sure you are checking it properly and not over filling it with oil.

Pull the did stick in the drive/lake after it's sat several days and read the level no need to clean and re-dip oil is all ready drained to the bottom, now go run it and get it hot and turn it off and check the level again first thing if the level is lower than what it was then it's in the top of the motor and not draining back problem one diagnosed, pull covers and clean returns is the fix and oil use should lower but enjoy it and don't get excited because you have to add oil if anything add some tranny fluid to try and loosen the rings as a couple might be stuck but then it just could be ware as well and only a re-build will fix that.

Gabe, Chris mentioned the trans fluid to the oil bringing up a great idea. I'd put some Marvel Mystery in the crank case (follow the directions) and maybe even do the Sea Foam treatment (follow the directions) down the carb. You really don't have anything to loose. I've had great results with the Marvel!

nutty, im buzzing thru the 700 too, got the kevlar bands and red eagles on order,
will end up painting the whole package with base clear for the bling factor. i was going to convert to carb because i can get collector plates and skip e-check, i heard there were problems with the TPI...i dont know

nuttyskier2002 wrote:    When the engine gets so sludged up so that it holds oil at the top of the head overnight,....it is also sludged to the point where the oil will not drain back down to the pan for recirculation. When this happens, you start to lose oil pressure. Gabe, are you losing oil pressure?

HHHHHHHHHHHMMMMMMMMMMMMMM

If it stays up top overnight.... how the hell is it ever going to get into the oil pan to start with? it's not and you will have no oil pressure.

I said let it sit over night and check the oil level in the pan then compare it right after it's been started and ran up to temp then check again and compare? If it reads lower then the oil is stuck in the topside of the heads which leads to it seeping past the valve guide seals and causing blue smoke at start-up.

damn Malibu clown.

Oil pressure is good by the stock gauge on the dash. Drops a little at idle after skiing for a while, but not more than what would seem normal.

79Tique wrote: On my cars the oil is always lower on the dip stick after running. Then comes back up after a while. Is this not normal? Every car I have ever owned has done this even new ones.

The 'missing' oil is in the top and drains down. You are detailed?!!?