76 Ski Tique Floor/Stringer Replacement

After thinking about it, once I get the new stringer cut to fit, there is no reason to keep it. Im just going to keep it for reference until Im ready to bond the new stringer in.

Tool of choice:

4 1/2" Grinder w/ diamond blade to cut fiberglass. Worth the 60 dollars

6" hand drywall saw to cut foam

18" wide crow bar to remove foam

Haven't run into a real PIA situation with these, yet..



Couple of questions here.

Can the stringers be removed and replaced without removing any of the foam where it turns vertical? How far do the stringers extend into the vertical section?

thanks

Thanks Pete.

Gonna remove as little as possible to get the stringers out. How do you replace it; by pouring expandable foam and shaping it?

As far as the intake vents go, I've started removing the foam between the stringers in front of the battery box, the intake hoses are not coming out in one piece, they are tearing, etc. I don't want remove all that foam in the toe board section to get them all the way out.

Is there a good way to replace these hoses from the toe plate to the bulkhead (right word?)at the bilge? I have seen some people use PVC pipes in this area. Would sticking the ends of the hoses into a single PVC pipe be sufficient? Much easier to make a new bulkhead with 2 holes rather than 4.

Thanks for all the help

Got the other main stringer out this weekend. I was able to get it out by removing the top and one side of the stringer fiberglass. I pryed the stringer up out of the bed. It came out in three pieces, but 3 full pieces. Although I wanted it to come out in one whole piece for a perfect template, Im satisfied with what I have. I can also take exact measurements from the bottom of the stringer bed to the top of the existing fiberglass as well.

The stringer wood in the toe plate is a seperate piece. I will remove the bad wood in this section, but not sure what I will put back in there; if it's not connected, I don't see the structural significance of a block of wood in the toe plate.

I removed the foam under the floor from the bulkhead to the toe plate. I may try to use this area for storage. Anybody got any thoughts on it? I'll include some pics soon.

Thanks Tim



Hard to see in the pic, but I don't think our front ends are laid out the same. My battery box is in the bilge in behind the bulkhead (barely see the what's left just behind battery box, note the conduit on the right is pulled back so I could remove the foam in that area). Did you move your bulkhead back?



Plywood floor outline with battery box location shown. Bulkheaad located where plywood pieces touch. The X area denotes planned storage, I estimate it's at least 16" wide between PVC pipes, 24" front to back, and 18" deep along the keel. That's my plan for now.



The main stringer on the left has been removed. I still have the fiberglass along the entire length, even left the engine mount pieces attached. My next step is to build the stringer system before removing anything else. I will build test pieces (cause Im not confident in my woodworking ability), get them to fit correctly and then proceed tearing out the rest before putting it back in.



My current autocad drawing(haven't updated it recently) Im going to get this thing perfect along with elevations for all stringer pieces and plywood floor pieces also for reference here. If any of you can help, feel free to chime in.

Thanks again guys

you need to rethink your layout. Where you plan your stoarage is the battery box's location as shown in Tim's, if you relocate to the postion you have shown the seats will be right on top of it and you will have no where to bolt them down to the floor unless you plan on screwing in to the battery that is.

And I won't say anything about the drawing.

TRBenj wrote:    Unless Im mistaken, I believe the stock battery location on the Tique is directly between the 2 buckets. Im not 100% on this because my floor was removed when I bought the boat.

That is correct Tim, factory box was right between the seats. A little extra storage up front would be great, especially if the seats are left in the stock configuration, both facing forward, allowing access. My floor space in front of the seats is pretty much worthless because of the the rear facing/wider observer seat. Hard to ram much of anything behind it. My battery box is still accessible with these arrangements.

First draft of main stringer. Bottom drawing superimposed over a 2x8x12. Dimension to the long side of the bevel.

You can see from the bottom drawing why the gas tank support is a seperate piece of wood.

Time to work on this has been few and far between here lately, but I have made some progress.

I have one of my main stringers and one my secondary stringers cut and sanded to fit. I think this is a pretty big step because it eliminates some of the unknown parameters.

My new gameplan:
Finish demoing the inside of the boat.
Cut out the other wood members
Order supplies
Clean and prep inside of boat for install

I'll re-evaluate after I get all this done. Im going to update my drawings, they were a little off. Also, I'll add some pics of the stringers with dims, etc.

March 2nd today, got a lot to do in 2 months

JDiggs wrote: Just a note on my secondary stringer I cut. It was 7.25" too short. I still don't know how the F that happened.

Alan has my board stretcher...   

JDiggs wrote: Got a question for you guys. Should the stringers be level in both directions? From front to back and side to side. I know you have a slope toward the bilge, your secondaries should be level and your mains should be level, just didn't know if there was a slope from front to back.

There was a slope to the rear on my boat...'88BFN.

JDiggs wrote: What about using a polyurethane glue such as 3M 5200 to bed the stringers.

I don't think the additional glass you'll need will stick to that.

2 points though for thinking outside the box!   

I agree on the bedding material. Epoxy peanut butter is way easier to work with, and I would guess, by the amount i ended up using, far cheaper than 5200 would be. There is no way that stuff would cure before mid summer, if ever.
I had the Mustang level on the trailer front to back and tied the wheel crank to keep it there while working on it. I ended up finishing level front to back, but my positive going towards the bilge in the back did not happen. I am level to slightly outward. Not sure how that happened, but try to not do what I did. I don't think it is the end of the world.

Mike

Back from the dead. A 16 mo and a 4 mo old and football season has kept me pretty busy for a while, but got a little money and motivation again, so Im going to try to knock it in the next few months.

Tell me somebody has come up with a magic way to replace stringers since I was here last summer.

Got to finish grinding the rest of the old fiberglass stringers. I think you have to grind it down to the hull to make the stringers work. I have all the wood cut, got to fine tune the stringers when I get the fiberglass ground down. Then epoxy the stringers. Now I just need some time......

Good to see you back,a young family and boat rebuild now that’s hard.

Keegan, send me an email- I have the files: TRBenj@gmail.com

Thanks guys. Im going to revise those files very soon. I couldnt get the curve just right along the hull, so I have ground the rest of the old channels down and Im going to use the protractor? method to fine tune it. Those files should be pretty close though.

I'll post up an updated framing plan shortly.