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Float switch for my bilge pump

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote srbranum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-24-2010 at 11:26am
10-4 buddy. The ground is on the engine block above the water pump. I will ground it and see what happens.

The nut I am talking about holds the overflow valve on to the back of the boat. The valve is located on the outside of the boat, on the stern, to the right of the ladder just below the rub rail. When you fill your tank, it will shoot out gas when the tank is full. I also believe it just vents fumes from the tank. There was a nylon nut on the back side of it between the wall of the boat and the vent hose. I cranked on it the other day and it being nylon, broke in to a bunch of pieces .
I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-24-2010 at 11:48am
Scott,
The vent through hull has straight pipe threads. Take it to a well stocked hardware store. What you want is a "locknut" matching the straight pipe.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote srbranum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-24-2010 at 1:13pm
Understand, but the reason I say it has to be a half nut is because a regular lock nut is too thick and will overrun on to the area where the vent hose is attached thus the name "half nut". The nylon nut that came off of it is about the thickness of one of the black ends of an Oreo Cookie.
I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-24-2010 at 1:24pm
Originally posted by srbranum srbranum wrote:

Understand, but the reason I say it has to be a half nut is because a regular lock nut is too thick and will overrun on to the area where the vent hose is attached thus the name "half nut". The nylon nut that came off of it is about the thickness of one of the black ends of an Oreo Cookie.

Scott,
Did I say regular nut? No, you assumed that. What nut's are you looking at??? I didn't even say "half nut". Here's a pipe thread "locknut":



Pipe locknuts at McMaster Carr


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote srbranum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-24-2010 at 2:13pm
Pete,

I'm sorry. I was not trying to catch you off guard or question your CC knowledge.

All I was saying was that it was a nylon, that's why it broke. I knew it was not the shape and thickness of a regular nut and a local mom and pop hardware store said what I needed was a "half nut" which they said it is called that because it is half the thickness of a normal nut but they did not have anything I could use. I don't recall if there was a lock washer behind it or not, probably not.

I will try word my emails better in the future and not in insinuate a fact or theory I am dealing with...
I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-24-2010 at 2:32pm
Scott,
Sorry but I was unaware you were mislead by mom and or pop!! Did they at least ID the thread size for you? If you can get the thread size, we can go from there. There may be a alternate.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote srbranum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-24-2010 at 3:30pm
I am heading to Guntersville, AL this afternoon to a large marina there to get a couple of things and I am bringing my PITA children with me pictured below to see if they have an idea. Pictured is the broken nut and I was wrong. It is made out of some sort of pot metal. I trust you guys more than them but maybe if they hold it in their hand, something will click. I saved about $300 by not going to Callaway this weekend so I can afford to buy what I need:

BTw, my last attempt this morning at the bilge pump: Grounded the switch like we discussed to a post marked "G" on the back of a gage. The float was not involved. As soon as I touched the ground point, the bilge pump came on. The problem with that is the switch was not pulled out and the float was sitting in a box out of the picture so I am back to square one:




I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-24-2010 at 4:38pm
Scott,
Lets give the pump wiring another try but it really sounds like you didn't ground the one pump wire.

Under the dash:
The purple wire is comming off the fuse. This is the hot feed. The yellow wire on the same terminal supplys power for the automatic mode. It gets connected to one of the float wires. It doesn't matter which one. The brown wire on the dash switch is for the manual mode. That, you will want to connect to the positive wire on the pump. It will bypass the float switch.

Back to the bilge:
You have the yellow wire connected to one of the float switch wires. The other wire on the float switch gets connected to the positive wire on the pump where you connected the brown wire. Then the negative wire on the pump goes to the engine block which is your ground.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-24-2010 at 5:13pm
regarding the nut the common name is jam nut or pannel nut, if you are trying to locate one at a hardware store or a large retail store like Home depot or lowes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrCC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-24-2010 at 5:49pm
And while your at the Depot, get a thin rubber washer.   The one on your fuel vent looks like a garden hose washer.   The thin washer will give you more threads on the inside.


AT
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote srbranum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-25-2010 at 11:53am
Pete, been gone since lunch yesterday. Will try this out this afternoon and let you know.

scott
I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote srbranum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-25-2010 at 11:56am
Could not find this yesterday anywhere. Will try Fastenal today.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-25-2010 at 12:25pm
Scott,
Did you identify the thread size. As mentioned, there are alternates. Is it a pipe size? Go into the hardware again and see if a electrical locknut will screw onto the through hull.

The big alternate is getting a complete new one. They still make the same vent!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote srbranum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-25-2010 at 2:37pm
Pete,

I took the broken nut and the fitting in to a bunch of places. Basically, everyone said I would never find a replacement on the shelf and would have to buy a whole new fitting to get the nut. But, like you, I want it as original as possible and want to keep the old one. The original jam nut is 1/8" thick and about the best I could come up with is a nut the thickness of two quarters stacked together. The nut I bought at Fastenal fits the threads. I will probably just use the nut I bought and just not feed the fuel line all the way on to the fitting and making sure the hose clamp is secure.
I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote srbranum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-25-2010 at 2:38pm
Originally posted by DrCC DrCC wrote:

And while your at the Depot, get a thin rubber washer.   The one on your fuel vent looks like a garden hose washer.   The thin washer will give you more threads on the inside.


AT


Good point. I will take you up on it.
I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-25-2010 at 2:45pm
Scott,
What is the nut size you got at Fastenal?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-25-2010 at 3:01pm
Originally posted by srbranum srbranum wrote:

Pete, would have to buy a whole new fitting to get the nut. But, like you, I want it as original as possible and want to keep the old one.

Scott,
The same Perko you have is now marketed as a "WEST" product.



$11.00 at West Marine

You probably spent more on gas with all the running around you've been doing!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote srbranum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-25-2010 at 3:09pm


WOW! I had no idea it would be that cheap. I will just order one of those and get a life and quit wasting gas and time!!!! I probably only stopped at 8 locations looking for that crazy nut.

Can you find out if West sells that plastic nut with the rod attached that goes on the steering cable or worm underneath the dash? The guys said it is sold at Skidim but would they have the fuel vent you pictured as well? I could just buy both at the same place.

Got to go to sleep now , Will be corresponding after 3:30 today.

Thanks,

scott
I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-25-2010 at 4:35pm
Scott,
The new through hull vent I'm sure is a cheap zinc die cast imitation to your old Perko which may be brass. I'd get it just for the nut - or, if you know the size of the nut you got from Fastenal, as mentioned I may be able to help. BTW, you could also take the nut you do have and hack saw it in half!!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote emccallum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-25-2010 at 4:38pm
What a great thread. Pete, you deserve a medal for walking Scott thru this and not giving up. I have seen folks on other forums start blasting people that are just getting started and may not have grown up with mechanical families. Our treatment of Newbies (and we have had a lot this Spring) sets us apart from other forums.

Scott, you deserve the hardest worker medal. Knowledge isn't cheap and in time you will become well versed in CC boats. Stick with it! I just cant wait to read about a working bilge pump!

ernest
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote srbranum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-25-2010 at 8:06pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Scott,
The new through hull vent I'm sure is a cheap zinc die cast imitation to your old Perko which may be brass. I'd get it just for the nut - or, if you know the size of the nut you got from Fastenal, as mentioned I may be able to help. BTW, you could also take the nut you do have and hack saw it in half!!!



Ask and ye shall receive!!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote srbranum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-25-2010 at 8:30pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Scott,
Lets give the pump wiring another try but it really sounds like you didn't ground the one pump wire.

Under the dash:
The purple wire is comming off the fuse. This is the hot feed. The yellow wire on the same terminal supplys power for the automatic mode. It gets connected to one of the float wires. It doesn't matter which one. The brown wire on the dash switch is for the manual mode. That, you will want to connect to the positive wire on the pump. It will bypass the float switch.

Back to the bilge:
You have the yellow wire connected to one of the float switch wires. The other wire on the float switch gets connected to the positive wire on the pump where you connected the brown wire. Then the negative wire on the pump goes to the engine block which is your ground.


AND ON THE FIFTH DAY, GOD BLESSED THE BRANUM HOUSE WITH THE KNOWLEDGE OF PETE AND PROVIDED THE HOPELESSLY ELECTRONICALLY CHALLENGED MIND OF SCOTT WITH THE STRENGTH AND WISDOM TO NOT ONLY GET HIS BILGE PUMP WORKING BUT THE ADDITIONAL GIFT OF A WORKING FLOAT SWITCH. SO LET IT BE WRITTEN, SO LET IT BE FINISHED AND MOVE ON TO THE EXHAUST PROBLEM. HALLELUJAH!!!!

SCOTT
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-25-2010 at 9:22pm
Scott,
Fantastic news. I'm glad to hear you got it. I'm glad to have helped out but can't take all the credit.

Ernest,
Thanks, Yes this is a great site and one of a kind. Now, I must say there were a few frustrating moments with Scott's bilge pump!! I kept on trying to figure on how to explain the wiring.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote srbranum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-25-2010 at 10:25pm
Could I have the honor of being your 11,000th post ??

Just kidding.

I am not finished yet. If I can get the floor and exhaust in, I can't see much more difficulty.

Did I mention in the middle of all this that I completely took apart the leaf springs, bearings and hub and stripped the paint, wire brushed to a new finish, added two coats or metal primer and two coats of white paint?

What did you think about me sawing that nut in half? It looks perfect.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-25-2010 at 11:20pm
Originally posted by srbranum srbranum wrote:

Did I mention in the middle of all this that I completely took apart the leaf springs, bearings and hub and stripped the paint, wire brushed to a new finish, added two coats or metal primer and two coats of white paint?

On the boat?

Originally posted by srbranum srbranum wrote:

did you think about me sawing that nut in half? It looks perfect.

Looks like it sure will work! I'm really curious on what size the nut is. I've asked several times. Did Fastenal tell you?   


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote emccallum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-25-2010 at 11:20pm
my day is complete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote srbranum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-25-2010 at 11:28pm
Pete,

To be honest with you, the guy at Fastenal took my fuel fitting and rummaged around a couple of bins and told me this is what I need. I did not even get a receipt (.71cents) so I took it and left. I will find out and let you know.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote srbranum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-26-2010 at 3:08pm
Pete,

I went by Fastenal on the way home this morning and the salesman who helped me was not there and I did not have my parts with me. I had to go to Lowe's anyway and tried to find the matching thread and size in the hardware department and nothing goes up to that size. I am not putting you off, I will find out for sure in the morning.

Scott
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote srbranum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-28-2010 at 11:40pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by srbranum srbranum wrote:

Understand, but the reason I say it has to be a half nut is because a regular lock nut is too thick and will overrun on to the area where the vent hose is attached thus the name "half nut". The nylon nut that came off of it is about the thickness of one of the black ends of an Oreo Cookie.

Scott,
Did I say regular nut? No, you assumed that. What nut's are you looking at??? I didn't even say "half nut". Here's a pipe thread "locknut":



Pipe locknuts at McMaster Carr


Pete,

Did you get my email. 3/4-16 Jam nut.

Thanks,

Scott
I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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