Holley 4160, or edelbrock carb?

horkn wrote: The primary float floats in a cup of gas.

can you give us a few more details? when you tested it was it postioned like it would be in the carb with the metal tangs horizontal? was the metal tang horizontal to the top flat surface of the float as it was floating or was it slightly below and at an angle relative to the top flat surface? if the attitude of the metal tang/attachment point wasn't such that it was at a downward angle to the opposite end of the float then it's bad, meaning if the metal was horizontal or slightly angled up it's bad, if it was angled down into the gas then it should be fine.

I think you have the nitrophyl float, very odd it's bad.

Tom, I'll be sending the parts to you today but I didn't get a chance to soak and clean. Seeing as you have a soak can I'll send the bowl as is with a new needle/seat, clean it up and try it.

The parts came today. Thanks a lot Alan!

I should be able to clean the parts up and put them on tomorrow.

Really? You got a feeling? Quite astute of you.

For an exercise, reread your first sentence of your first post!

Luchog i suspect one side's idle circuit is still boogared up, causing you to up the idle out of its normal position. Now its pulling too much from the transition slots to get the fuel.
Sounds like its on the edge of dripping. Vacuum will be a touch higher when warmed up that may be all it needs to stop.
Also check that all the air bleeds are not plugged.

Luchog wrote: I'm almost positive it's iddling on the iddle circuit since, when not dripping, I cant see any fuel on top of the butterflies.

That is presuming there are only two routes for the fuel.
But there are three.

Believe me, when the transitions slots are too exposed, they can cause enough venturi action in the metering block, the boosters will drip.

Tom, Gotta's the carb guru on the site, he pretty much understand this carbs all around better than anyone else around here, dont ask me how or why, he just does.

His advise is the one to follow, he understand them far beyond what you or I can from some some partial rebuilds, you ask, he explains, you learn, or you dont.

I pretty much think the power valve was well covered before, unless you didnt test it well. Regardless of what the Holley tech told you on the phone. I bet they have a "power valve tester" tool for them.


Gotta: went boating again today, venturi dripped at iddle on the dock even with the boat at op. temp. I lowered the iddle a tad and it still dripped. It did until I put the boat in gear at the dock for the first time. No more drips for the rest of the day.
This week will try to check the air bleeds, lower iddle and check timing at iddle, anything else? If it were the iddle is set too high, and working on the transition slots, wouldnt both sides drip? Or do I concentrate more attention to that sides air bleeds clean up? is it worth opening the metering block plugs for cleaning?

Tom, ask the holley tech if this is the correct tool for testing a PV!

Just don't try to change her powervalve.

This may have been asked at one time or another, but does anyone know what the angle of the carb wedge for the PCM 351W with B/W 1:1 trans?
I've seen 7 and 12 degree wedges online. I've got a 1975 Southwind 20.

Good to hear.

However when Pv's diaphragm go bad they dump fuel under the butterflies, where the vacuum is, not out the boosters.
Or if they hang open it doesn't matter at idle because the mains are always open to the boosters.

I believe you nudged something back into order or the idle circuit in the metering block cleared up.