Shaft Alignment and strut bearing

Took the driveshaft flange coupler bolts out about 10 minutes ago. I have ~ 0.004 around the bottom, and 0.000 (can't get the gauge in) around the top of the flanges. It's tight. So me thinks the front of the motor needs to come up a bit??

Also my drive shaft will not spin by hand uncoupled. I can grab the prop with ski gloves on and turn it. Once it "breaks" loose it turns OK but sure is sticky. What should I be looking at?? It's in the water now. Thanks.

1997 SN

Before you move the engine ether up or down, find out where the shaft is "happy" (turns freely) in the strut and then check to make sure it's centered in the shaft log. If it's not, then you'll need to do a strut alignment. You'll need to get it out of the water.

SharkSN wrote: 1300 hours probably my strut bearing is done then. I have a new prop coming here today or tomorrow so am pulling boat and will take a look. To slip the shaft all out - it looks like the flange, then the collar comes off and the whole thing pulls out? Thanks for the advice.

I'd suggest a new cutlass bearing as long as you are at the 1300 hours.

Yes the shaft side of the coupling half needs to come off but it should be a heat to shrink zero to -.001" fit. You'll need to use the "spacer and threaded rod trick" to remove it. I'll see if I can find a link to a thread on the procedure. Then the safety collar comes off.

I found the thread

SharkSN wrote: Took the driveshaft flange coupler bolts out about 10 minutes ago. I have ~ 0.004 around the bottom, and 0.000 (can't get the gauge in) around the top of the flanges. It's tight. So me thinks the front of the motor needs to come up a bit??

Wrong
If the gap is at the bottom the front has to go down.

A little tip for ya.
If you need to shift the motor side to side at all, loosen the cinch bolts then spin the nut to the top of the bolt and give it a tap or two. You will see the cinch bolt drop to the nut, then she'll move nice and easy.
Same with the front but they go horizontally instead of vertical.

Shark - Make sure & lap in that new prop. If you don't know what I am talking about do a search for 'Lapping prop'.

no i didn't touch the engine until i study a bit more about it. I understand the prop lapping like valve lapping - thanks for that info, good idea. A ton of load being driven through that drive shaft/prop union. The better balanced the whole assembly is the cleaner it will run.

But too late boat's back in the water + didn't have the time for it. I'll do that when I pull it for winter in about 8 weeks.

I was able to knock the OJ off by hand, it's been loose I could hear it clunking in reverse. Also the castle nut i had to back off to make the cotter hole a couple of years ago. The ACME prop went on a bit deeper than a the OJ with the castle nut snugged up.