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Stringer project, possible v-drive conv. |
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eric lavine 
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Joined: August-13-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 13413 |
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 Posted: March-05-2011 at 10:06am |
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btw, no comparison of a Walters to a 630, but if this helps, model A, lamborgini
if you search Luchs threads you will see the end result of a Walters hanging in a boat. 630v comes in a 1.52 ratio... Walters- needs a box ie: pcm, BW, zf 450 for ranges, 2 sets of cooler lines, 2 oil changes, 4 mounts, only good for forward in forward, very heavy, costly to repair....to many moving parts, outdated zf 630, 1 cooler, 2 mounts, lightweight, you can put the selecter in either position to go forward under full power, used in many 30 ft sea-rays pushing mass and spinning big wheels |
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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Luchog
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Joined: April-17-2007 Location: Argentina Status: Offline Points: 2135 |
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Posted: March-05-2011 at 11:26am |
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Eric, there's just one issue I see with the 630 unit and that it it's short profile, the 1:1 plus walter setup or the PCM Power Vee have a longer profile allowing engine placement on the verty stern of the boat and not needing to modify the shaft log.
In such a small boat you would end with a pretty short angled shaft. Do you get my point? |
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eric lavine
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Joined: August-13-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 13413 |
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Posted: March-05-2011 at 11:43am |
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yes true, but you move the engine a touch forward if need be, post this guy some pics of you kunundrum
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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wlaust3
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Joined: August-21-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 13 |
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Posted: March-07-2011 at 12:55pm |
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So I cut out the floor and removed about 200 lbs of frozen foam. When I put everything back together I'm going to need more ballast :). I still have a bunch of demo work to do in the bow. Hopefully I'll get everything cleaned out by Wednesday so I can start figuring out what wood I'm going to buy.
Obviously dug fir for the main stringers but what should I use for the secondary? I am not replacing the foam and I'm going to use plywood for the floor. I'm thinking 1/2" marine grade. I want the secondary stringers to be beefier since next summer the engine may move to the back and the primary stringers will have cutouts for the engine though the middle. I'm bad with pictures. I'll get my act together soon though as pictures are worth a thousand words. -Bill |
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TRBenj
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Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21186 |
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Posted: March-07-2011 at 1:09pm |
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Better start reading more carefully. 
Go with doug fir on the secondaries if you can. If its not available, Pete told me that hemlock or a clear white pine are suitable alternatives. Dont bother with marine grade ply. Exterior grade uses the same waterproof glue at 20% of the cost. Marine grade simply has fewer internal voids, which is a non-issue for a floor... its only needed if youre building a hull out of it. |
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Keeganino
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Joined: October-27-2009 Location: North Carolina Status: Offline Points: 2063 |
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Posted: March-07-2011 at 3:46pm |
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If you only use half inch for the floor you will have to use a lot of glass to make it solid. I used 3/4" in the back and 2 layers of 3/4" from the pylon forward so that you have some meat to bolt the seats down to. I dont think half inch is gonna cut it when it comes to mounting your seats.
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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger
1973 Skier |
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: March-07-2011 at 4:49pm |
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Keegan, I've got to disagree and feel you went slightly heavy on you floor but, in your case, seeing your stature you're probably very smart. 
Yes, 1/2" is on the light side but with glass on both sides and proper support from the stringer system is fine. I'd say using 5/8 would be a good compromise. Glueing some additional strips of ply just under the seat base screws is a good idea. |
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Keeganino
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Joined: October-27-2009 Location: North Carolina Status: Offline Points: 2063 |
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Posted: March-07-2011 at 5:49pm |
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Ok lets all make fun of the fat kid
The two most rotten areas on my boat were around the pylon and under the seat bases- the two areas of the floor that are under the most stress and flex. I would imagine that flex allows more water intrusion to these areas so my rationing was that if you reduce the flex you increase the years of safe operation. Probably over the top but I can tell you I will never worry about it either. Ply wood is a lot cheaper than epoxy... We both seem to agree 1/2" is skimpy.
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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger
1973 Skier |
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wlaust3
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Joined: August-21-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 13 |
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Posted: March-07-2011 at 6:02pm |
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I'm sold on 3/4" exterior plywood.
And I'll probably do something fancy for the pylon area especially since I'm not putting the battery box back. I already put my batteries far forward in the bow. |
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eric lavine
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Joined: August-13-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 13413 |
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Posted: March-08-2011 at 10:07am |
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posted the internal guts of a 630v, very robust as you can tell |
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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wlaust3 wrote: