Epoxy + xylene + rain (what to do now)

Looks like parts are still wll coated in Epoxy. Very sticky to touch even thru the wet / rain. Epoxy now has a milky film to it in places, water absorbtion I guess. Doesn't look like the water did much to wash off or displace the epoxy. I have the 2 pieces inside the house standing on end ~ as now showers are predicted to last all day.   

Sorry Pete ~ I'm working thru the reupholstery process... Upper Gunnel rails, Bow cushions, and dash trim to go along with my new driver and observer seats.

No good pics of the wood... it is the 1/4" thick dash upholstery backing. This wood was in good shape and the staples would not pull out by hand. Rather then cut new wood to fit my dash I decided to treat and preserve the original. You can see the dash upholstry in the pic below. The pieces were reuseable as is but I figured treat them now and they may last forever.


This pic from the day I brought it home makes me cringe... Yuk!!


   

Pete, do you think adding mild heat would be Ok to accelerate the process.    

Yes correct hardener and ratio.

It was a 2 gallon kit I ordered from polymer composites 3 yrs ago to re-lay a floor in my 1973 Glastron 19' outboard. I replaced the plywood floor with new wood and then fell into this inboard ski boat before completing the refloor project. I later sold my Glastron to a fisherman who prefered to use bedliner coating on the new floor.


My grandfather (a glastron dealer) sold the boat new in 1973. I bought it in 1991 from the original owner and kept it 18 yrs.    

It's probably going to outlast the upholstery so I wouldn't worry too much. I did a divers seat base with CPES when I got my Centurion, the wood was completely rotten but the upholstery was good. I sold the boat this spring ( had it 7 years used it for 500 hrs) and the upholstery is bad, but that rotten base is still hard as a rock.

I did it the other way around (Resin+Xylene) so I would have more work time.   I doubt it makes a difference.

Yes. Then I added hardner last.

I agree with Chris to add the hardener last. This way mixing in the solvent will not effect the pot life.

I've used quite a lot of epoxy through the years have always added fillers first then the hardener and have never had a curing issue.

This is pulled off my Epoxy suppliers Data sheet.....as we found to get deep soak/penetration you need to thin more I found 75-80% works well, the down side is it compromises bond strength so I go with first coat at 75-80% then a second at their 50% applied before the first is fully dry but not straight over the first coat to let it flash off.


Wood wet out
Work at decreasing temperature. For example start the laminate at midday and finish later, because when the
wood is warm and dry, the air contained in it expand and get out (degassing). So if you laminate onto a warm
substrate that is cooling down then the resin is sucked in by the wood.
The first coat can be diluted with EP N° 217diluent (Xylene)
SR 5550 / SD 5505 1 volume
Diluent EP 217 0.5 to 1 volume maximum
Advice : Mix the resin and hardener first, then wait 5 minutes @ 25 °C or 10 minutes @ 15 °C before dilution.
Mix the epoxy system and diluent thoroughly for 3 minutes.
Wet out the surface, the thickness should be as thin as possible to let the solvent evaporate quickly.
Recommended tools : spatula, short-haired roller.
Wait approximately half an hour before starting the laminating or bonding operations.