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78/79 ski-tique rod knocking

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storm34 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-05-2011 at 1:45pm
I'd say timing. When I attempted to start mine for the first time it would spin and then stop dead in it's tracks and then start up again. I had plenty of fuel but the timing was so far off it wouldn't ignite.

If I remember right, I set mine at 10 degrees. It's silky smooth there and starts ridiculously fast.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allanonjj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-05-2011 at 1:45pm
another silly question: On the fuel pump,.. which hole(front/rear) is the inlet and which is the outlet? (I took pictures of all the stuff I knew I'd need visual reference on and forgot to on the simple things,... lol)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-05-2011 at 2:10pm
look at it close usually one if not both are marked inlet or outlet
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allanonjj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-05-2011 at 3:13pm
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

look at it close usually one if not both are marked inlet or outlet

K,.. preesh
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-05-2011 at 3:26pm
Originally posted by allanonjj allanonjj wrote:

Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

look at it close usually one if not both are marked inlet or outlet

K,.. preesh

You can also put your finger over the holes. One will suck and the other develope pressure.

Don't forget the steel line with flared fittings from the pump to the carb.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allanonjj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-05-2011 at 4:14pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Don't forget the steel line with flared fittings from the pump to the carb.


Hey Pete,.. where'd you say I can get one of those? There was some site or something that sells them for like $20 or so but I forgot where it was.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allanonjj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-05-2011 at 4:18pm
http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RA085002B

Is this it? It doesnt look right but it may be the one. I thought the fuel inlet was on the right rear side of the carburetor,.. right? Does anyone have a good pic of this?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-05-2011 at 4:24pm
You got it, that's the right fuel line... or should be if you have a stockish intake manifold. On Holleys, the gas line goes in the front towards the port side.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dreaming Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-05-2011 at 5:16pm
I bought a lenght of fuel line at the auto parts store (steel of course) and bent with a tubing bender... tube was all of about 6 bucks.   if you have to cut some of the tube off to get the right lenght, the end is a double flare... single flare will not seal as well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-05-2011 at 5:16pm
JJ,
I bought one from Skidim for my 302. Since it's gots a wedge plate under the carb, some tweaking was neded but it worked. The alternate is to use pre flared brake line and bend one yourself.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allanonjj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-05-2011 at 8:43pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

JJ,
I bought one from Skidim for my 302. Since it's gots a wedge plate under the carb, some tweaking was neded but it worked. The alternate is to use pre flared brake line and bend one yourself.


OK,.. I'll order the one from skidim. Ive heard that its not a good idea to use steel braded line with an fittings,.. why is that?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-05-2011 at 8:55pm
Originally posted by allanonjj allanonjj wrote:

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

JJ,
I bought one from Skidim for my 302. Since it's gots a wedge plate under the carb, some tweaking was neded but it worked. The alternate is to use pre flared brake line and bend one yourself.


OK,.. I'll order the one from skidim. Ive heard that its not a good idea to use steel braded line with an fittings,.. why is that?

To my knowledge, they are not USCG rated.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Luchog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-05-2011 at 9:43pm
after your done with the fuel line, pull the plugs and crank, if it's turning easier timing is too advanced, put the plugs back and retard timing. If it doesnt, the starter is tired and needs rebuild.

always guessing the engine is properly assembled.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dreaming Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-05-2011 at 10:04pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by allanonjj allanonjj wrote:

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

JJ,
I bought one from Skidim for my 302. Since it's gots a wedge plate under the carb, some tweaking was neded but it worked. The alternate is to use pre flared brake line and bend one yourself.


OK,.. I'll order the one from skidim. Ive heard that its not a good idea to use steel braded line with an fittings,.. why is that?

To my knowledge, they are not USCG rated.



CG rating is important, but another concern is that the flares may be different. I can't remember which is which, but automotive and aircraft use different flares, one is 45 Degrees, and the other is 37.5 degrees.   using the wrong flare will make the fitting leak
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-06-2011 at 2:14am
Kinda of ironic,AN fittings,Army Navy are not good enough for the Coasties???
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-06-2011 at 10:02am
Didn't we recently see AN fittings on a metallic blue Ford?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-06-2011 at 11:27am
Originally posted by Dreaming Dreaming wrote:

   I can't remember which is which, but automotive and aircraft use different flares, one is 45 Degrees, and the other is 37.5 degrees.   using the wrong flare will make the fitting leak


You have to install a flair adapter to use AN fittings.

as for the almighty "Coast Guard Approved". Screw them, You can plumb airplanes and tanks with these fittings but question putting them on a ski boat, give me a break please. They are absolutely leak proof and can be removed and reinstalled countless times without leaking, try doing that with a double flair piece of crap. I go for peace of mind with my boat and I never started my motor without checking that dam fuel line flair, never a drop of fuel out of the AN's. Common sense is a terrible thing to waste.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-06-2011 at 12:35pm
Speaking as a guy who sets his boat on fire every now and then... regardless of regulation you do need to be a little careful in your fuel line selection on a boat. The specifically what is needed between an engine mounted fuel pump is something abrasion resistant (to avoid wearing through either by vibration over time or by contact with a rotating pulley or belt) has positive stop stress relieved attachments (ie not a non flared compression fitting on a hard line that could be slowly and imperceptably pulling out, or a soft line with a clamp and a barb fitting because it also could blow out under pressure suddenly and it could through fatique crack over time) and something that has a high enough melting temp to allow you enough time to swim away should you have a small thermal event under the motor box.

A high quality rubber hose with stainless steel braiding and AN fittings properly used meets all these actual requirements. But there are no markings on stainless braided lines that seperate the cheap low melting point rubber junk from the high qualily stuff that will give you enough time to swim away. That is more an issue for the coast guard because they cannot easily check than it is for you who can check the specs of the material you buy.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dreaming Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-06-2011 at 3:40pm
Originally posted by 81nautique 81nautique wrote:

Originally posted by Dreaming Dreaming wrote:

   I can't remember which is which, but automotive and aircraft use different flares, one is 45 Degrees, and the other is 37.5 degrees.   using the wrong flare will make the fitting leak


You have to install a flair adapter to use AN fittings.




I didn't know those were available    I learn something new on here all the time!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-09-2011 at 11:49am
and dont be a dummy and put teflon tape on the threads, flares do the sealing not the threads, I dont own any teflon tape that *************** gets everwhere so i use pipe dope, the only place you should see dope or teflon tape is on a NPT National pipe thread.
just brought that up cause i always see teflon tape hanging off the carb fitting
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