4 more cylinders to what i'm used to |
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GrumpyGeoff
Newbie Joined: July-16-2012 Location: Uk Status: Offline Points: 27 |
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Posted: July-27-2012 at 7:19pm |
Hi guys back again,
We've got a 5.8l ford PCM 351 I'n a 1980 ski nautique. Recently we've changed plugs, leads, condenser, rotor, full carb refurb, battery and some more The engine idols great, and engages gear and plods nicely, it's when you put the hammer down there's a problem. The power seams to surge, no shudder or clunking just not picking up smoothly or properly Were now scratching heads about fuel lines or pumps? Another clue could that today the hand pump ball thing you use to prime or pump fuel in by hand sucked itself inwards while running. Another strange thing is that out of gear and on land (with hose to intake) the engine sounds like it picks up to high revs 'cleanly' It's a holley 4 bbl by the way Any clues anyone Thanks a lot ps Hi its Geoff this time. The above was written by my sons. The problem really is that the secondary butterflies aren't opening and when forced to open there is little fuel coming through the secondary jets. Wonder if the secondery vacume diaphram has been damaged by trying to find out the firing sequence. Engine plate found in bilge, the reason we had dripping primarys seems to be my fault, excellerator pump incorrectly adusted, i hadn't adjusted the clearence with the pump compressed, at least i own up to my own mistakes .Have a good weekend, Geoff, Matthew and Tom |
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Jllogan
Platinum Member Joined: May-18-2011 Location: canton, OH Status: Offline Points: 1728 |
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so its still surging? Also you should not need a hand prime pump. You should remove this, if its losing prime there are other issues needing addressed (fuel pump/carb)
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Since the primer bulb is collapsing, I'd say something is blocking fuel flow from the tank. Check your anti siphon valve on the tank top and also your fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump. With age and the ethanol fuels, it's known to collapse.
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GottaSki
Grand Poobah Joined: April-21-2005 Location: NE CT Status: Offline Points: 3335 |
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They always sound great in neutral
You have a restriction at the tank, likely the barb fitting, it has a spring and ball in it, tends to clog there Secondaries wont begin to open until over 3500 rpm, while under load. Then some carb adjustmet seems in order. |
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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."
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GrumpyGeoff
Newbie Joined: July-16-2012 Location: Uk Status: Offline Points: 27 |
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So do the secondaries not open when the engines not I'n gear (under load) or did you mean something else?
I'm gonna start with fuel lines/ tank blockages |
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....Don't have children, unless you plan to win the lottery anytime soon!!
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Under load means in the water in gear and turning the engine at 3500 RPM or more. Think vacuum. |
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GrumpyGeoff
Newbie Joined: July-16-2012 Location: Uk Status: Offline Points: 27 |
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Good morning, well it is here.
No 1 The ball pump is just there so when its stood for some time (weeks) you don't need to crank the motor over just to fill the carbs. No 2 There is an issue with the fuel line from the tank and perhaps there may be a blockage in the internal pick up pipe in the tank. I'll put an air line on that and see ( this wasn't the original fault ) To get the boat back, we put a fuel line directly in to a one gallon gas can. So at this moment in time can rule out anything before the pump. No 3 Fuel tank connection its not a barb fitting, its straight onto the tank. No4 Under load, i mean when the boat is on the water and in gear, from 20mph up. No 5 Correct me if i'm wrong, when the primary butterflies open, a vaccume is created in the inlet manifold, when this vacume reaches a certain negative pressure, the secondary butterflies open. On the port side of the engine, there is a diaphram, is this used as a damper (spring) or does it operatate the butterflies? No 6 The Holly has what you call a boost valve, what does it control, is it fuel or vacume for the butterflies? No 7 Everybody has stated that the secondarys don't open while on the trailer in neutral, unless my age is getting to me, i'm sure i see the secondary butterflies open with gallons of fuel coming out of the secondary venturies when the revs have been taken up to max by blipping the throttle (you see the kids at the traffic lights waiting for green thinking they're at the start of the indy 500, thats what i mean) and why did i do it, cos it sounds nice. Thats when i've seen the butterfies open. Thanks all, Geoff |
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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Geoff - I think it would be helpful for you to read the theory of operation on a holley carb - I am sure it will be on a Holley website.
Keep in mind that the engine craetes a vacuum in take system becuase the butterflies are limiting how much air is let in. When you open the throttle, the vacuum drops. It is when the vacuum drops to a certain level that tthe secondaries open. Same for the power valve. You might be able to momentarily create a low vacuum when quickly going to wot at no load, but it wouldn't stay there long. Neither should you BTW! |
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GrumpyGeoff
Newbie Joined: July-16-2012 Location: Uk Status: Offline Points: 27 |
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Still struggling everyone,
Today we've changed fuel line and removed manual bulb, were pretty sure it's nothing to do with that now (grumpy) Geoff will probably blog and correct me later but the diaphragm in the housing next to the choke that opens the secondaries had blown itself inside out, I think this might be due to some back firing after getting the firing order wrong Really scratching heads now as we ran it about 2 weeks ago and top end was fine, but it wouldn't idle. That's why we tried changing all the ignition components. Now it seems to idle fine but appears lumpy or like it's missing ( although don't think it is actually missing) when you accelerate. What about coil? What about vacuum leak? Where should we look for one? (grumpy) Geoff has tonight revealed he's not 100% about the gasket between the carb and the block itself as the ones to choose from in the kit weren't exactly the same (only for that one )...that's how confused and running out of ideas we are...so depressed now lol :( P.s he has done his homework on the Holley site as suggested so he can have some brownie points for that Thanks for any ideas, Matt |
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baitkiller
Platinum Member Joined: October-11-2011 Location: SW Florida Status: Offline Points: 1693 |
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Hello Geoff, just a quick note or idea. When you were doing you ignition work did you check the distributor for advance function? because what you are describing could be a manifestation of timing problems. IE: no or too little advance. If you have an advance light it could be evaluated quickly and at least be one more thing checked off in your deductive process.
The best of luck. John |
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GrumpyGeoff
Newbie Joined: July-16-2012 Location: Uk Status: Offline Points: 27 |
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Thanks John,
We did use a strobe light for the timing and have altered it, is that what u meant? I know Geoff (my dad) did take the distributor apart today to look inside at the advance/retard mechanism and was wondering about the springs being loose in there..I think he's gone off to have a think about that, it's about midnight here now so I'll ask him I'n the morning I think he thinks he may have over adjusted the floats to compensate for some of the ignition issues. Do you think float settings might cause some of the symptoms? |
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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1 spring is supposed to be loose. Yes, float adjustment is critical so it is best to adjust it to spec. You can take some carb cleaner spray & check for vacuum leaks around carb base. Also, don't forget to set idle mixture.
Did you check point dwell? Bad Points & condenser can manifest themselves in a number of ways. |
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GrumpyGeoff
Newbie Joined: July-16-2012 Location: Uk Status: Offline Points: 27 |
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I'll make sure Geoff reads all this in the morning, and suggest we put everything back to default and start again
What your all suggesting will make more sense to him, I'm an office monkey sho just wants to use it, he's the pit crew Cheers all |
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GrumpyGeoff
Newbie Joined: July-16-2012 Location: Uk Status: Offline Points: 27 |
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...one last thought, we bought a points, condensor and rotor kit. The rotor was correct but the points were not the right ones, the condenser seemed to fit. Could it be that the condenser is also wrong? Could it be that the points are knackered?
We've still not tried to contact supplier to see if they supply parts that are not In a kit |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Although the condenser didn't seem to fit, most likely it will work. It's only purpose is to quench the arc when the point contacts open. When they open on the DC current, there is a pretty big arc that burns up the point set contacts.
I feel you had better go back to your supplier with all the part #'s and find out what happened. |
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GrumpyGeoff
Newbie Joined: July-16-2012 Location: Uk Status: Offline Points: 27 |
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Thank you all for your replies, and the happy ending is, exceleration like a rat up a sewer pipe and a tick over (idle) as slow as a single cylinder diesel. So what have i learnt? The cutting out when going into gear was the accelerator pump maladjusted, anyone that adjusts must remember to do it with the throttle wide open and the lever pushed down and adjust. In my case, it was a long way out and this, i believe was causing the dripping primary jets when the engine was stopped. the secondaries not opening was cused by me again, by lowering the primary float chamber level.So i would suggest anybody who has engine cutting out when selecting drive, first check the aceleration pump clearance. Anybody who has a good idle speed and ok going into drive, checks the primary float level and if that doesn't work, change the float valve.
Up to now, it hasn't cost you a cent but half an hour of your time, a scew driver and 2 11 mill spanners. If every things ok, then you can go down the road for ht leads and plugs, points and timing. As for timing, i've checked static timing after using a strobe and its as near as damn it to 10 degrees (for those that haven't got a strobe). The other thing i'd recommend is marking the distributor cap 1 to 8 and the leads themselves 1 to 8 using small tie wraps and while you're at it, write the firing order down on the inside of the engine box. Well thanks again all, my 2 sons are happy now and all i,ve got to do is get all my tools back oh and the money i spent on bits ahh dream on. Not a Grumpy Geoff, i'm off to the pub (bar) |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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