Really stubborn graphics

I'm removing the graphics on my '88 nautique and had no problem with the lettering on the sides of the boat. However, when I got to the lettering on the transom, that was a whole different animal.

I am currently using a pocket knife and blow dryer and moving at about a letter per hour.

It seems really enveloped into the gel coat. The PO had it at his lake house for the past 19 years so I'm thinking the transom was exposed to the sun quite a bit. This is also where the boat has the most oxidation.


I even tried a test of wet sanding w/ 600 sand paper but didn't do much but dull the surrounding gel. I'm going to wetsand most of the hull before I place the graphics I ordered from Zach so not I'm not worried about it.





Can anyone recommend any techniques or products that would expedite this process?

Try an eraser wheel, its a rotary "bit". I know 3M makes one.

Mark beat me to it. Disclaimer, I've never seen it used in these hull decals, only the thinner deck ones.

That looks perfect. I'm on my way to pick up one of those.

Here's a video of it for future reference.
3m Eraser wheel


Here's another thing I ran into. It appears that the red gel coat has come off on this part of the design. I've never messed around with gel coat and have put it off. But now that i'm about to invest so much time on the gel, i may as well. Would this be an easy fix?

Lewy is correct. Zach at N3 Boatworks has a source for them, hit him up. There is a thread on them somewhere here.

Eraser wheels are like voo doo science. The sides of that boat look almost new!!! Have you buffed on them much? I would assume the transom of the boat always faced the west? Our lifts all face west so the transoms take the brunt of the sun. Im thinking of having a addition to my cover made with snaps that covers the platform so I don't burn up my new graphics.

I can print those "lightning bolt" graphics for you if you need them.

I'm having a hard time finding a orbital polisher I can pick up immediately while I'm on break. This is the only product I can find from HD/Lowes.

porter-cable polisher/sander

I'm looking for an adapter for this in order to use the 3m pads

Waternut wrote: For the record, if you use a battery powered drill or slower speed drill, it works MUCH MUCH better than the high speed electric drills. It's faster, the wheel lasts longer, and it doesn't heat up the wheel and boat as much. The corded electric drills also have a tendency to make your eraser wheel egg shaped due to the speed which pretty much trashes it. I did my entire boat with 1/3 of a wheel primarily using a battery powered drill. My buddy got half of a jetski before destroying the same kind of wheel and a corded drill.

John,
They do make low and variable speed corded electric drills!

Get it done!! It should look wonderful.

Sounds like a good buy. I bought local since I only have this week to work, then I'm back to full time school.

The package came in early. Got the graphics in and steering cable.

I found a thread on replacing it.

steering cable

While I'm replacing this, are there any other simple things I can knock out?
I'm going to watch Pete's video on shaft alignment and some other threads I've browsed before. If there are any good reads, please don't hold back

Hey fellas

Need some help here. Got my steering cable replaced but can't figure out how to align the rudder and steering wheel .

In this picture, the rudder is straight, but the steering wheel needs to be turned all the way to the right for it to be short enough to attach to the rudder. With this, steering can only be straight and left. Theres no room to turn right.

steering cable

Whats the right order in connecting all of these parts?

Also, the white greased ball joint clamp fit tight on the original steering cable, but this one has some room and can wiggle in it. I also want to make sure that the large nut goes after the ball joint clamp, and not before it.

Appreciate your help, I've been working hard at this boat all week. Boat is polished and waxed inside and out, teak is stained, new graphics are finished. Just need to vacuum and clean carpets, and clean all the compound off the trailer. And Last, I need to make the diary for this boat.

Thanks

Brian

I just bought a few of these and man do they work! I clean off all the lettering on a box truck and it came off without a problems. I used 1 per side. Did the whole truck in about 1.5 hours.

The heat gun method took me 5-6 hours a side.

Eraser Eraser

Hey Pete,

I figured that out with a few hours of trial and error. Luckily, CC designed the bow with luxurious space and that perfect fit for a pipe wrench to tighten the steering cable. I only had to test and try a 1/2 dozen times to figure out how things were working. The metal sheath around the original steering cable was impossible to get off. After an hour of struggling with that, I took it to an automotive shop and tipped one of the workers to take it off for me.

Today was a frustrating day. But it is done, and my work is done for spring break. Boat looks great. Can't wait to snap some shots of it tomorrow at the lake.