1988 Ski Nautique 2001 Electrical Problems

Ben,
Try in detail what results you get when you go through steps 1,2 and 3 of the test.

Regarding the choke, looks like someone put liquid electric tape on the quick connects. You'll need to scrape it off to disconnect ether wire.

8122pbrainard wrote: Ben, Try in detail what results you get when you go through steps 1,2 and 3 of the test. Regarding the choke, looks like someone put liquid electric tape on the quick connects. You'll need to scrape it off to disconnect ether wire.

I scrapped off the liquid electrical tape and disconnected the red wire from the choke. The results from steps 1, 2, and 3 are as follows:

Step 1) Remove the cap and rotor. Turn the ignition ON and test voltage at the NEGATIVE side of the coil (black lead of meter to ground and red lead of meter to coil NEGATIVE post). Voltage should read 12 volts.

Result = 1.44 volts at the negative side of the coil.

Step 2) If battery voltage is present, place a credit card, driver’s license, business card or similar and block the photo optics of the module. The voltage should drop to 2 volts or less (1 to 2 volts). If this test is positive, then the module is working

Result = Battery voltage not present, but did the test anyway with no change in voltage.

Sounds like it's time for a new module.

Just the module.

Module

Read the P/N number on the module and then do a search.   It may be this one.

My 88 351 also has a 50 amp breaker. I haven't owned the boat since new but it's been in there for at least 16 years now.

desertskier wrote: Sorry. Yes it is in the distributor.   Did a search on your distributor P/N and it looks like it uses the 605 module

Yes, the 605 module looks correct - I'll get one ordered ASAP.

I was reading some posts on the Summit Racing Equipment website where I plan to order the module and I found this:

A defective starter motor on the engine can fry this ignition module and pretty much any other electronic assembly whether or not you use the recommended electric filter module. A Starter Motor is the one that spins the engine at the flywheel to start it. If the solenoid is sticking (due to worn contacts) it can remain engaged. If the over-running clutch is worn or sticky, the starter motor becomes a generator when the engine starts, creating some destructive voltages on the battery signal, frying just about any electric module. If you've had to replace the ignition module more than once, I recommend replacing the engine starter assembly.

My starter had been acting up (grinding sound when starting), so I had it tested the other day and they said it was destroyed (couldn't be rebuilt) and they asked me if it had gotten stuck (engaged) and continued to spin with the motor running. I didn't even realize this could be the cause of my issues, but I may have learned something after reading that post. Anyways, I have a brand new starter installed and I'll be replacing my ignition module, so I'm hoping that will finally get me back on the water.

I'm still not understanding how the ignition module is causing my voltage drop - Do I still need to worry about? Or should replacing the module fix that too?

I ordered the replacement 605 module and will let you know how it goes - Thanks for the help everyone!!

ben.hlaban wrote: My starter had been acting up (grinding sound when starting), so I had it tested the other day and they said it was destroyed (couldn't be rebuilt) and they asked me if it had gotten stuck (engaged) and continued to spin with the motor running. I didn't even realize this could be the cause of my issues, but I may have learned something after reading that post. Anyways, I have a brand new starter installed and I'll be replacing my ignition module, so I'm hoping that will finally get me back on the water.

Ben,
I went back through the thread to see if talked about the starter problem and couldn't find anything. Thinking now, I wonder if this was the start/cause of your current problem? A starter that stays engaged is typically from the start relay (solenoid) contacts being welded together sending power to the starter even after the key switch is returned to the run position. The welded contacts are basically caused by a low voltage condition which in turn causes a high amperage (Ohms law) draw from the starter. The contacts can't handle it and then weld together. Not wanting you to go through this again, there are a couple things you need to know/check that can cause the welded contacts.

Bad battery that can't handle the starter amp draw.

Using a deep cycle battery They are designed for low amp draws for extended periods of time like a trolling motor or a large sound system. You always want to use a starting battery.

Bad corroded battery cables causing a high resistance which in turn causes the low voltage.

Bad cable terminals and or corroded/dirty terminals and battery posts. Again, a high resistance issue.

Group 65, std automotive battery, no need for high CCA rating.