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Excalibur 343 won’t start! Need help |
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Jward 
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Joined: August-10-2018 Location: Sc Status: Offline Points: 7 |
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 Topic: Excalibur 343 won’t start! Need helpPosted: August-10-2018 at 10:06pm |
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I have a 99 supersport with an Excalibur 343 engine in it. Started having problems when coming out of the hole it just died like I shut the key off. Wouldn’t turn over at all, fuel pump wouldn’t prime. About 10 minutes later after trying about 20 times I turned the key and and the fcc primes and the motor fired right up. Put in a new ignition, fuel filter and fuel pump relay. Last time on the lake, shut the boat off for a bit and it would not start back up, fcc wouldn’t run , wouldn’t turn over. Batteries read good on the gauge, everything else on the boat works fine. Got towed in, next day it fired right up in my yard, no problems. Any ideas out there?
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: August-10-2018 at 10:46pm |
What gauge? On the boat? How are the battery/cable terminal's? Clean and tight? |
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Jward
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Posted: August-10-2018 at 11:17pm |
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The boat gauge reads 14v. Checked the terminals and connections to the battery the other day, they all looked good
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MrMcD
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Joined: January-28-2014 Location: Folsom, CA Status: Offline Points: 3735 |
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Posted: August-11-2018 at 4:19am |
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Watch what your battery gauge does as you turn the key. If it falls below 12V while you are starting you have a connection issue most likely. Ground or positive. Could be at the battery or at any connection along the path to your starter.
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JoeinNY
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Posted: August-11-2018 at 9:45am |
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Low pressure fuel pump ?
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gun-driver
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Posted: August-11-2018 at 12:18pm |
What he said |
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Jward
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Posted: August-11-2018 at 12:27pm |
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Thanks for the help fellas? How would I test the low pressure fuel pump? I did just unplug the high pressure and turned the key and I heard it run. The frustrating part about this is it runs perfect right now in my yard, but craps out on the lake and won’t start again. Hard to troubleshoot
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Jward
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Posted: August-11-2018 at 12:40pm |
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Thanks for the help mrmcd. It did drop to almost 9v when I just started it. But also read about 16v when it started. U think the gauge could be bad and I should check it with a voltmeter? Read somewhere it should never go above 14.5v
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gt40KS
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Joined: August-05-2017 Location: Wichita Kansas Status: Offline Points: 946 |
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Posted: August-12-2018 at 1:14am |
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Hi Jordan
Yes, check battery volts with VOM, not with dash gauges. This will not only eliminate dash gauge irregularities/ faults but also confirm the voltage drop as described. If so, don't trust a visual inspection of the cables @ the battery, starter, etc. Physically remove every connection and thoroughly clean the cable contacts as well as the starter & battery contacts, even if they appear to be clean. When reinstalling, make sure they are making good contact and tight. This will eliminate the possibility of a corrosion or contact issue. If the voltage drop still continues you may have a bad/ shorted cell in the battery. There are other, less common possibilities but this should be a good place to start |
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JCCI
1995 Ski Nautique GT40 |
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MrMcD
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Posted: August-12-2018 at 2:37am |
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If you have the connections off and clean wipe them with a very thin coat of vasoline before putting them back together. It will keep corrosion away 100% till you take it apart again. I never learned why this works but it absolutely does. An old mechanic told me to do it 40 years ago and I have ever since.
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Jward
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Posted: August-12-2018 at 3:42am |
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Thanks again for the help guys! I’ll have to that Vaseline trick me mcd. Ok cleaned all the cables from the batteries to the ground and solenoid and re-tightened. Checked with a multi-meter, have 12.5v with the key on and it drops to 11 when I crank it up. So I guess I’ll have to take it on the lake tomorrow and bring an extra battery with me and see what happens
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gt40KS
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Posted: August-12-2018 at 9:20pm |
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Jordan before you turn in for the night, disconnect both cables from the battery and put the battery on a slow (2 amp) charge for the night, if it's an automatic charger. If not, 2 amps for 2 hours and continually check the volts till it reads at least 13 volts - the volts will likely drop almost immediately but should stabilize after a few minutes.
After a FULL charge a new battery should be at least 12.7V - 12.9V and should be stable and not bleed back down. The lower the static voltage below 12.7v, the weaker the battery and below 12.1v the battery should be replaced. After your 2a charge cycle and the battery is still at 12.5v you should be fine UNLESS the static volts drop to or below 12.0v after only a few cranks. Voltage dropping to 11 WHILE cranking is normal while the battery is under load. Load voltage dropping below 10 indicates a very weak battery and below 6 or so the battery is bad. |
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JCCI
1995 Ski Nautique GT40 |
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Jward
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Posted: August-13-2018 at 1:09am |
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Alright fellas thanks for the help. Much appreciated! Took the boat out today and it ran great. Never cut out and it started every time. Must have been a bad connection at one of the grounds or wires on the battery. I cleaned everything up with a brush and sandpaper yesterday. Must have done the trick! I’ll have check the battery though gt. Thanks for the tips
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: August-13-2018 at 10:44am |
Jordan, You need a battery post and terminal cleaner. Next time you stop at the auto supply, pick one up  "Sandpaper" depending on what type of abrasive is on it, is not a good idea. Some abrasives like Garnet are non conductive and can get imbedded in the soft lead posts and terminals reducing the contact area and reducing the contact area which increases the resistance. At the very least, use a "Scotchbrite" pad. Glad we were able to help and you found the problem. Happy boating and remember, NO tubing!! |
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Jward wrote: