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Winterizing...
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GottaSki View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
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Joined: April-21-2005
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Points: 3363 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-07-2020 at 1:16pm
Consider splicing in higher quality nylon, or brass garden hose ends, either at the engine, or the heater, makes for quick disconnects and purges.

Reverse the directions of the m/f. this way if the heater core ever pukes hard, three minutes you are on your way after connecting the hoses together.

I winterize with a shop vac, One hose clamp at the engine,  it pulls the water out of the heater core and lines, then pour a quart of af in.

it also catches all the drains, so don't have a bilge of water and rust/sediment.
"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

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Originally posted by ultrarunner ultrarunner wrote:

Don’t think for a second I’m still not trying to figure out getting the boat in my garage! Side load provides a challenge.

GT-40

I use a product called Auto Dolly by Merriick Machine. They work great to move the boat into tight spaces. I use a floor jack and pick up one side of the trailer. Then I slide one Auto Dolly under each tire and lower the trailer. Repeat for the other side. Once the Auto Dollies are in place, the boat can be positioned where wanted. A good smooth and level floor helps. The Merrick Machine units have heavy duty casters that roll well.

Link to Auto Dollies

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2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow
1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow

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desertskier View Drop Down
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Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Mark,
Careful with the type of valve you use. You need one tthat you can still get a piece of wire through it and into the block to probe the hole for sediment. Those do look like you can but with a reduced port size. I've been using these for years and have recommended them several times. The complete stem removes so it's full port for the wire for probing. I even see they are now offered at some marine suppies for block drains.



Installed those a few years ago.  They work great!

McMaster-Carr: PN 4921K2
92 SN - Owned since 93
99 Pro Air
89 SN - Went to live on a lake in Texas
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frozenskier View Drop Down
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Originally posted by GottaSki GottaSki wrote:

Consider splicing in higher quality nylon, or brass garden hose ends, either at the engine, or the heater, makes for quick disconnects and purges.

Reverse the directions of the m/f. this way if the heater core ever pukes hard, three minutes you are on your way after connecting the hoses together.

I winterize with a shop vac, One hose clamp at the engine,  it pulls the water out of the heater core and lines, then pour a quart of af in.

it also catches all the drains, so don't have a bilge of water and rust/sediment.


Ok that sounds like it will work. Maybe I'm not understanding you, I think if I splice in anywhere it would be in the middle of the hose that is accessible so I can get to it easily. Reversing the m/f ends makes sense in the event of a core failure.
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Fast351 View Drop Down
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I might have to get some of those 1/4" NPT ball valves.  Those look like the hot ticket for fall when I drain the block a handful of times for freeze protection before winterizing.
2001 Ski Nautique 196
2007 Air Nautique 211 TE
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GottaSki View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
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Originally posted by frozenskier frozenskier wrote:

Originally posted by GottaSki GottaSki wrote:

Consider splicing in higher quality nylon, or brass garden hose ends, either at the engine, or the heater, makes for quick disconnects and purges.

Reverse the directions of the m/f. this way if the heater core ever pukes hard, three minutes you are on your way after connecting the hoses together.

I winterize with a shop vac, One hose clamp at the engine,  it pulls the water out of the heater core and lines, then pour a quart of af in.

it also catches all the drains, so don't have a bilge of water and rust/sediment.


Ok that sounds like it will work. Maybe I'm not understanding you, I think if I splice in anywhere it would be in the middle of the hose that is accessible so I can get to it easily. Reversing the m/f ends makes sense in the event of a core failure.


Indeed, accessibility is key
"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

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rebel skier View Drop Down
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Do you guys put the McMaster-Carr: PN 4921K2 on the elbow to the side of the water pump too?  Is there enough clearance (85 351 pcm)?
Hotty Toddy lets go skiing!
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2001SAN View Drop Down
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I am in the UK.  I assume these would also work?

Sorry for jumping in!
A little knowledge is a dangerous thing...

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1989 Fairline Corniche 31

www.bannrivercruises.co.uk
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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Originally posted by 2001SAN 2001SAN wrote:

I am in the UK.  I assume these would also work?

Sorry for jumping in!


Darren,
They look good. The key is the stem is removable so you can use a piece of wire to probe the drain hole for sediment.


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Keep it original, Pete
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2001SAN View Drop Down
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Cool. I will treat myself then!

Cheers Pete.

D.
A little knowledge is a dangerous thing...

2001 Super Air Nautique
1989 Fairline Corniche 31

www.bannrivercruises.co.uk
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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Points: 41045 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2020 at 2:29pm
 I can't stress enough the importance of being able to probe the drain holes for anything that may plug them up. I just got done winterizing my 312 and both block drains and both manifold drains were plugged until I got the wire in them. The only drain that wasn't plugged was the one on the bottom of the RWP! 

Gary,
Please note I'm late this year! Big smile I could hold off for several weeks but those below 40 degree days are getting rough on the hands. 


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Gary S View Drop Down
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Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

  
Gary,
Please note I'm late this year! Big smile I could hold off for several weeks but those below 40 degree days are getting rough on the hands. 

You were just hoping that with all the global warming you'd get a bonus boating day LOL 
69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport
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ultrarunner View Drop Down
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For those pouring in the A/F from above the impeller, are you putting a 90 on this fitting, so you don't make a mess trying to use a funnel and hose on this side-facing opening?
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ultrarunner View Drop Down
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Oppps, disregard. That's an additional drain and soap-inlet for the impeller come spring time. We're pouring in from the outlet of the RWP ;-) Easy-Peasy
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Hummm... I always fog engines going into layup... regardless of the temp it will be held at unless you will be turning it over every week or so to get oil on cylinder walls walls etc.  

If you have a way of collecting the antifreeze and collecting/recycling easy if you are on a trailer... I just use regular glycol antifreeze... has anti corrosion properties and mixes with water.  a pair of 5 gallon buckets and a lid and you can use the same batch for years... even storing in heated garage... peace of mind.  Just make sure you cap your bucket if you have animals around!

 
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Originally posted by AAM196 AAM196 wrote:

and you can use the same batch for years...
 


Do you recheck concentration?
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

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AAM196 View Drop Down
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Not really... I do spike it a bit on the 2nd or third use.. I recycle it after that and start fresh. That being said, It resides in a heated garage. Having a helper makes job pretty easy.

Having single exhaust also helps with the collection..
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