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1978 Ski Nautique Restoration

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KENO View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-22-2023 at 7:50pm
If the mounting flange is warped gouged, not concentric or if the coupler is loose on the shaft..............it's bad

It's a heat shrink interference fit

Here's some reading in the link


Plenty more with a search too Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote wayoutthere Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-22-2023 at 8:16pm
Originally posted by NeilMcG NeilMcG wrote:

Originally posted by wayoutthere wayoutthere wrote:

Far as alignment goes, ron tanis has some very good videos on the subject.
Start fresh with new cutlas bearings in the strut.

What's your opinion regarding installing a new coupler?


My opinion on a new coupler ;
spend 600 bucks and get the dual taper shaft and coupler to go along with the new cutlas bearings and hdpe stuffing box. Hand adjustable instead of 2 big pipe wrenches.

Heres why;
-an hour of changing nuts bolt washers and spacers to pull the original coupler off sucks almost as bad as oven heating and mig welding gloves to put the coupler back on the shaft only to find out after all your hard work theres a bent shaft and you have to break out the nuts bolts washers and spacers again.
-even if the original coupler is perfect i'd bet there is some wear on the shaft from the stuffing box and strut.
-the dual taper shaft is a breeze to install/remove making stuffing box and cutlas bearings in the future a much easier job.
-it was priceless for me when it came to alignment because i had to solve it in a way other than the traditional method.

https://skiboatpartsonline.com/ARE-Shaft-ARE-0035

https://skiboatpartsonline.com/stuffing-box?search=Stuffing%20box

After your happy with alignment Remember to torque the new coupler to the transmission in a north south west east pattern and diveide final torque by 3 or 4 and make that number of passes to final torque i.e if torque is 30 ft pnds make 3 passes 10 20 & 30 don't just slam it together and tighten them up.




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NeilMcG View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NeilMcG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-22-2023 at 8:20pm
Originally posted by MrMcD MrMcD wrote:

If the old one was tight as hell it is probably perfect.  If you got it off with no problem the center hole is loosening up and it is shot.   There is probably a spec you can measure with a Mic to verify but tight on removal is good.

Each side is still on and I haven't fiddled around with it yet. I'm assuming the key variable based in what you wrote is the purchase e.g. integrity of the interference fit. What am I measuring with the mic?
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NeilMcG View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NeilMcG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-22-2023 at 8:21pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:


If the mounting flange is warped gouged, not concentric or if the coupler is loose on the shaft..............it's bad

It's a heat shrink interference fit

Here's some reading in the link


Plenty more with a search too Wink


Ah...ha. thank you!
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NeilMcG View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NeilMcG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-19-2023 at 10:29pm
OIL PAN DILEMMA !!!! Ouch

While hoisting the '78 351 RH into position for parts harvesting, the straps broke. Fastest damn quick drain method you'd ever see. The good news is the concrete is fine.

The pan from the '80 doesn't inspire much confidence as a sub. It's been repainted twice with a third layer consisting of a rubberized film, perhaps bed liner. The skin is wrinkled from over-torque and about 1/3 of the surface is lathered in JB Weld. 

Why is an standard stamped steel pan for a 351w $85 but over $500 when searching part # R005004?  Is it a RH seals thing, drain plug location or general geometry? 

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KENO View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-20-2023 at 8:03am
What are you looking at for an oil pan to replace it with.?

I'd probably read the thread linked below for some ideas  Wink


Cross referencing the numbers can find you some cheaper prices in the 70 dollar range.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67 ski nat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-20-2023 at 9:13am
My ‘marine’ pan is aluminum (corrosion resistant?)
And holds 8 quarts (cooling ? )
Slight mopar improvement
Just things to consider
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NeilMcG View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NeilMcG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-20-2023 at 1:27pm
Originally posted by 67 ski nat 67 ski nat wrote:

My ‘marine’ pan is aluminum (corrosion resistant?)
And holds 8 quarts (cooling ? )
Slight mopar improvement
Just things to consider

Thanks. As long as it'll fit 😀
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-20-2023 at 1:37pm
Someone might disagree with me, but I've never heard of any issues with a standard capacity pan on a 351.  No need to cool oil in a marine application like ours and 351's don't have a tendency to suck the pan dry.  So not sure I'd bother with an 8 quart pan for this engine.
'63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NeilMcG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-20-2023 at 1:38pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:



What are you looking at for an oil pan to replace it with.?


Just searched "351w oil pan."
Summit has them under $100, but after searching the OEM # R004005 with price tags of $400 and up, I just wanted to make sure there wasn't something that might be unique to PCM or correct craft.
I think your link will answer this though. Captain Ken comes through again.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NeilMcG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2024 at 2:57pm
Just a quick update on what will hopefully be the last stage in this rebuild.
Engine long block is all done, which was the most challenging part.

Found a place in Pittsburgh for final assembly as it's a three hour round trip to where it is now. However the door width is 8ft and I can't remember the total width with trailer. Think that will be enough?


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KENO View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2024 at 8:20pm
Since it's am 8 foot door, the opening is probably a few inches less due to finishing trim.

Somewhere, sometime a long time ago, I think I remember backing   a same vintage SN on it's factory trailer through the opening for an 8 foot door with at least an inch or 2 to spare on each side Wink

Trailer width was the limiting factor, the boat is 76 inches wide but fender width is quite a bit more

Somebody must have some measurements around here

TRBenj is usually good for trailer info.   

Or............maybe you need to start a new thread with a title like " How wide is a #3 trailer from the 70's?"

This is all assuming it's on a CC trailer built for the boat
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fanofccfan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-08-2024 at 9:47am
I can try to measure tonight.  My thoughts would be the load guides might have to come off and it just might squeeze in.  Ill try to remember to measure it.
2004 196 LE Ski 1969 Marauder 19 1978 Ski
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KENO View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-08-2024 at 6:28pm
See the other thread
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