1975 Skiier Stringer Replacement

You would be correct my friend. Any comments?

US Composites is about as good as it is going to get. Plus they offer free tech advice.

kapla wrote: problem in the bow is that they put that wire hose ain't that hard and then it was foam over..if any hole was there..water entering trough the vent system due to a nose dive will end up in the foam instead of going to the bilge..thats why guy here put PVC pipes instead of putting that wire vynil hose back again!!!

Kapala,
that makes perfect sense to me. What kind of pvc do I use? Something flexable I suppose. Will see you in the morning, got to start driving now.

scott

scott you really need to read some of the other threads but here it the set up i mean with the pipes

weeding the pumpkin patch

this one of the best documented threads in this site!!!

I agree with Kap and Mike. Read, read, read. I admire the tenacity with which youre tackling this project, but I would highly recommend you slow down a bit and come up to speed on the methods and materials involved. There is a TON of information on this site, and it covers everything from hull prep, material selection, tricks and tips, etc. I have restored several of these boats from the hull up, and even with my latest project (Another BFN Rebuild) but I have spent countless hours planning. I expect the rebuild to go much more smoothly because of it. You dont need to take it as far as I did, but having a good plan in place before you proceed will pay dividends in the end.

A few quick comments though:

1. Remove every last bit of foam from the boat. Even the stuff way up in the bow up high was soaking wet on my Ski Tique.

2. I highly doubt I will refoam a boat like it came from the factory. Even with improved methods and materials, water will find its way in. This is a hotly contested topic, so inform yourself before deciding which way to proceed.

3. Getting rid of all the gel in the bilge is a good way to go, but grinding does suck. At least get rid of it everywhere where you'll be laying new fiberglass (along the stringers, etc). Gel is brittle, so bonding directly to glass instead will produce a stronger structure.

4. You'll want to address the weak points of the factory design in your rebuild. This starts with better materials (epoxy, for example) but you can also beef up certain problem areas. This includes weak bulkheads, poorly sealed drains- like the battery box, leaky vent hoses- replace with pvc or similar like was mentioned, sealing up all screw holes with epoxy or 5200, etc.

5. Save some budget for other "while Im in there" costs. Things like replacing the bilge pump hose, new control and/or steering cables, fuel lines, etc, are easy to replace with the boat disassembled. You'll need new flooring too- carpet, vinyl or otherwise.

I think the answers are going to be 50/50 Scott. Just do what's in you budget and what you are comfortable with.

About 1/2, including me used the more expensive straight grain.

Pete is a pretty experienced woodworker, and he felt it didn't make much difference. Greg is a fine woodworker by trade. I don't know what he used, but I believe someone said he used the lower grade fir.

Whatever you do, make sure it is dry. A lot of the lower grade fir is not dry. When it dries, it warps and twists badly, and then you will have a problem.

I just went with the straight grain, kiln dried doug fir because for me it wasn't worth the headaches to think about it.

I don't really understand why it has to be planed.

BKH

My boards were 8/4. Actual 2" boards like from days of old. I had it planed to 1.5 so it would fit my channels I left on the hull. Our horse barn is built with "real" boards. A true 2x4 that measures 2" x 4". I want to say Greg's boards were 8/4 also.

Yep, and they were still doing that in 82. Was the same on my boat. Don't know if/when that practice stopped. BKH

I guess not . will try and do better. I have no excuses. My first opportunity to read is saturday and sunday night this week.

On my computer at work. Headed out and will check back in the morning.

scott

My fuel line had 1973 printed on it too. They must have bought a lot of that to still be using it 2 years later. Man you are flying along! I have not made any progress this week with the weather since I am working all outside.

79TiqueRebuild wrote: Keeganino wrote: My fuel line had 1973 printed on it too. They must have bought a lot of that to still be using it 2 years later.     I need to replace all of my lines also.   Does anybody have a good source? The places I have looked are 2.25-3.00 a foot for type a uscg approved line. Ouch!

Where are you looking?? Overtons or West Marine???

USCG fuel line

EDIT: Wow! Go2Marines is per Inch so I didn't help out!!

srbranum wrote: I still can't figure out how the end of the stringer under the stearing wheel remains so wet since last august when I used it last? I guess it has to be leaking from that wiring tube, who knows. I don't see how it could leak anywhere else unless it came through the side of the boat.

SR - Your boat may be leaking at the rub rail. This is a common problem - my boat is leaking there too.

I am going to remove the rub rail & seal the hull/cap joint with 3m 5200 sealant.

FYI & good luck on your project!

Sounds like a part that went on the Space shuttle. Where do I get such an item as this?

If you go with a no foam rebuild like me you will need to use a thick plywood floor glassed to the hull.   The foam actually supported the old fiberglass floor. I am going to use 3/4 or 5/8ths ply, bonded to the tops of the stringers in thickened epoxy and to the hull and bilge with a layer each of 2" and 4" 9oz cloth. Then a couple of layers of 1.5oz mat over all the plywood.

These boats are not rocket science and there are a million different ways to skin this cat. I am finding that I am going to need to support my hull even though it is on the OEM trailer. There is enough sagging that I think it is going to make a difference on the final fit.

keegan,

What do you think about the idea of using luan instead of plywood? As I mentioned in an earlier post, I built a hunting layout boat covered in lunan and fiberglassed over with the same materials I am using now and it is solid as granite and a fraction of the weight of plywood. I would just have to add more stringer and support to use wood instead of foam and a ton less money. My supplier at RAKA.com also said he saw no problems with luan. Your thoughts?