Moving in to the garage

yes the ribbing is what I was asking. Sounds like I could go without but Im sure a few extras wouldnt hurt thats for sure. I guess I wasnt sure how precise I needed to be on the distance between them.

Still working on my shopping list, but I keep waffling on the foam no foam. I think if i go with a ply floor I will do 3 layers of fiberglass in addition, 2 layers of 1.5 oz matt and a final layer of cloth. I was thinking 10 oz but maybe that is too heavy. Then using a thickened epoxy for the mating and filet and the 1.50z mat to laminate the stringers and finish with a layer of cloth. I was going to start with 5 gallons of epoxy.

How does that sound for a start? Any big oversites or issues anyone wants to call out?

OK Tim, I'm thinking floor and you are thinking floor but also hull. You win!

Regarding the cantilever, maybe you missed this:

8122pbrainard wrote: Tim, Cantilevered? Not really if the floor is glassed to the hull sides.

Pete, if that connection between the hull sides and floor is structural (and not just a seal) then the layup should be sized appropriately... not sure if 3 layers will cut it. Supporting the floor from below is stronger though!

Mat will offer a better finish than cloth. It holds more resin and offers better impact resistance- so it would be my choice for the top of the floor. Cloth, on the other hand, has a very high strength to weight ratio and wont take as much resin... that would be my choice for the underside. Aero-cab is a decent choice for bedding... I think Buffalo used it too. You'll want a high strength filler for this, so Aero-cab and milled fiber were the 2 choices I considered (I used the latter, primarily).

You'll need all of 10 gallons (plan for 12) for the stringers and floor.

6oz is fine- it will make the curves a little easier. The 1.5oz mat will be significantly thicker than either.

surely dont go by what i say, but the advantages outweigh the disadvantages, ah I think you will see if you build the bottem correctly it will take a half a day for the cavities to fill with water, under the floor you build watertight bulkheads which will also serve as your gussets, with drain holes at the bottems

This may have been posted elsewhere but I always wondered if you could just order a metric butt load of hollow poly balls from somewhere like mcmaster and jam them in the compartments in place of the foam? If youre really resourceful (cheap) you could take your family to dinner at mcdonalds and steal as many as you can from the ball pit.

I'm a no foam person after seeing how my American Skier with no foam held up.But I'm curious- is there no foam that will work? closed cell?

usually if you hit rocks your in shallow water, i dont understand the fascination of the foam thing. if you flip the boat the air will hold it up, if you stuff the boat it pops back to the surface, correct me if im wrong but does the coast gaurd require life jackets? are there guys out there that risk their lives by taking one of these boats deep see fishing 12 miles out?
hah,
I know its an issue that gets thrown around alot, but, I have not really seen a good argument yet on its use, one just assumes because it is in there from the factory that it must go back in there. to me real it was a design flaw and corrected as the boats matured.
if it worked well you still would see the same set-up today, evolution is the word im looking for

eric lavine wrote: usually if you hit rocks your in shallow water, i dont understand the fascination of the foam thing. if you flip the boat the air will hold it up, if you stuff the boat it pops back to the surface, correct me if im wrong but does the coast gaurd require life jackets? are there guys out there that risk their lives by taking one of these boats deep see fishing 12 miles out? hah, I know its an issue that gets thrown around alot, but, I have not really seen a good argument yet on its use, one just assumes because it is in there from the factory that it must go back in there. to me real it was a design flaw and corrected as the boats matured. if it worked well you still would see the same set-up today, evolution is the word im looking for

Ya, it is hard to believe at first that it is a good idea. I spent about an hour on the phone last night with my assistant (my dad) convincing him we shouldnt put it back in. He at first was like, well if you dont need it then why did correct craft put it in. He kept saying what if someone runs into you and cracks the hull open or something, then I said if someone hits you that hard have got bigger issues. He came full circle and now is on my side to skip the foam. I think I am going to install some kind of drain plug in either side so that it can be air tight but I can take the plug out and check on it and drain if necessary. I think I have seen some guys get some fittings, Ill poke around the net but if anyone has a suggestion, let er fly.

How about filling it with ping pong balls. Quick... someone do the calculation on how many you need.
A gross for $20.

you gotta eliminate one or the other, so yes the statement is as stated, we are at the leading edge of seeing problems with the composites and the foamed boats 93 and ups....i believe you will see more problems up north here and more in the future.
logan, there called life jackets lol
I believe the law is 22ft and under from the manufacturer, after that not required, i mean at home, they wont board your boat and site you if thats what you are asking,
maybe the same as airbags in a car, allotta cars out there driving around with inoperable or no airbags in them

Got one secondary stringer out and started prepping and grinding the hull for the new one. It came out in one entire piece, it was barely attached to the hull at all. I lifted it out with my hands, but it wasnt that rotted.




These covers were in pretty bad shape when I got them but they are starting to clean up.

I got 2-12ft 1X6 and 6-8ft. We will see if that is enough. It came to around 150$ for those and the plywood. 2 sheets of exterior grade.

Nice work Justin!
And those valve covers look great, good job!

Kristof wrote: Nice work Justin! And those valve covers look great, good job!

they had some real deep scratches before but I wetsanded them while watching tv last night with 600 and then 1000 and they have a real cool brushed stainless look now. I am still debating on whether to buff them back to a chrome like finish or just leave them brushed. I am worried the brushed will not hold up as long or get dirty easier.