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Hard starting when the engine is warm

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    Posted: July-05-2006 at 8:20am
Hey guys,I finally put a phenolic carb spacer to help keep the carb cool.It really does a great job keeping it cool,but I still get the white smoke out of the front two barrels of the carb when I shut the engine off.Its not as bad as it use to be and the engine does start better maybe the 6th.crank or so when the engine is hot.So does the white smoke out of the front two barrels mean.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2006 at 8:21am
hey guys,I'm still having a little problem with the hard staring of my boat.I have finally noticed that once the engine is shut off that I'm boiling the gas out of the fuel bowl.I can see the steam come from the front two barrels of my edelbrock carb.Does anyone know where I can get a phenolic carb spacer with the pcv fitting on the back of of the spacer.Summit racing has one but the holes of the spacer are 1 5/8 where the the carb has 1 1/2.I think thats to much of a difference.Let me know where the best parts place is guys.Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-08-2006 at 1:21pm
check what the timing is at 2500 rpm to verfy that the mechanical it advance is working correctly. and that it doesn't need tweaked a little.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-08-2006 at 1:16pm
bmiller dont get carried away on the timing issue. Gottaski was talking about tweaking the timing if your engine doesnt turn as fast hot as it does cold like 6strings was reporting, I think he is right to suspect timing in that case, but that doesn't apply to your scenario in my humble opinion.
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bmiller View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-08-2006 at 1:11pm
Well I've got it at 10BTDC on my boat.Seems to be the sweet spot for my boat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-08-2006 at 1:09pm
you want the timing to be around 8-10 BTDC at 600-700 rpm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-08-2006 at 12:51pm
So if the timing nedds to be tweaked a little which way do you go? Advance it or retard it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-08-2006 at 9:30am
Originally posted by 6strings 6strings wrote:

Not to hijack the thread but, 77stang, you asked whether the starter spins the motor as hard hot as it does cold...I used to have that problem frequently. After it cooled a bit, it would crank normally and eventually start. What are the main causes of that? Thanks.


Additionally, too much initial timing will cause those symtoms when hot.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-08-2006 at 8:59am
Glad to see progress has been made. You have the right carb for your engine don't worry about the 450 cfm vs 600. My engine starts warm pretty much instantly and when the choke is attached and wired it starts cold pretty much the same way. If you have to give it gas to get it started warm then I would suggest pulling her out for a rebuild or at least pull off the plates over the float bowls and look for any evidence of crud. Starting will not be effected by rod and jet changes and in general the rods and jets that ship with the 1409 I found to be about right for my 302 last year. I left it maybe two steps richer at the end of the year but we were doing a lot of pulling multiple skiers (got up to 6 before running out of ropes). I have new heads, rockers, exhaust, and ignition on the motor this year and am going to need to re prop to get the rpm back down reasonable those changes will be enough that I will get the strip kit back and make some changes... possibly with an eye to more fuel economy...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jameski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-08-2006 at 8:44am
When your engine is warm, you should not have to crack the throttle at all. You should be starting it in neutral at idle. If you give it ANY throttle, you are activating your accelerator pump and this will cause an over-rich (flooding) condition. When everything is tuned and set properly, you should be able to start by just barely bumping the ignition switch (not "third crank of the motor"). Good Luck!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-08-2006 at 8:09am
Hey guys,I got it last night.I really leaned the carb down.Got the vacuum where I wanted it,kept screwing the mixture screws in till I heard the slight rpm drop.I can run the boat,get it hot,shut it off and wait 5,10,or 15 minutes and all I have to do barely crack the thottle and it the key,third crank of the motor and it starts every time.Also had to set the ckoke 3 notches lean.Thanks for the help guys,I've been beating my head against a wall for weeks now.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 77stang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-07-2006 at 10:27pm
Originally posted by 6strings 6strings wrote:

Not to hijack the thread but, 77stang, you asked whether the starter spins the motor as hard hot as it does cold...I used to have that problem frequently. After it cooled a bit, it would crank normally and eventually start. What are the main causes of that? Thanks.


poor battery cables or poor connection in the battery starting circuit. electrical resistance goes up when the components get hot so if there is a problem with cables it becomes an issue when teh motor is hot. I dont know if it's the main cause for that condition but i know it's a pretty common one
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6strings Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-07-2006 at 10:11pm
Not to hijack the thread but, 77stang, you asked whether the starter spins the motor as hard hot as it does cold...I used to have that problem frequently. After it cooled a bit, it would crank normally and eventually start. What are the main causes of that? Thanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-07-2006 at 4:05pm
It seems to crank the motor as fast.Also the motor never smokes when it fires up hot.The 450 holley was orignal to the boat.The 302 motor came with 450's, while the 351's came with 600's.Thats why I wonder if I need to change rods and jets,depending on the edelbrock manuel.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-07-2006 at 3:54pm
His comment about a 450 being on it before worries me a little too and I'm just curious if it was a two barrel before and now it's a four.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 77stang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-07-2006 at 3:46pm
i'm going to ask this, been wondering since the onset of your post. when your boat is hot does the starter spin the motor as hard as it does when its cold?.

also, someone on page one asked if the motor dumps black smoke when it finally fires up after it gets hot. i never saw your response to that question.

79, i'm simply trying to get another chasing his tail. i'm such a master at it i thought i'd share
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-07-2006 at 3:29pm
JoeinNY did you have to change any rods or jets when you installed your edelbrock on your 302? And if you did what did you use? I assume you don't have this hard starting problem when your engine is warm.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-07-2006 at 3:25pm
I would say set the choke at straight up nutral. Adjust the idle mixture screw by slowly turning them clockwise until the rpm drops then back it off a 1/4 turn, repeat for the other side, then do it all over again until it takes exactly 1/4 turn leaner to drop the RPM on both sides, then the idle mixture screws are adjusted correctly and all you'll have to do is adjust the choke a little leaner if needed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-07-2006 at 2:48pm
I'll try again tonight and see what happens.I'll let you know how it goes.Just to let you know if anyone live close to Cincinnati,I live 10 minutes south of the ohio river in kentucky.If anyone has a helping hand,that would be great.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-07-2006 at 1:38pm
Edelbrock Owners Manual

I followed the choke adjustment proceedure in the Owners manual on page 8 or so. Too lean is the way to go on a boat IMHO as your usually going to be running when it is warm and the engine box stays pretty warm after the motor is off for longer. I would have walked you through the adjustment proceedure had the removing the link solved the problem, but when helping to trouble shoot by post with people of unknown experience its easier to go one step at a time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-07-2006 at 12:59pm
JoeinNY,I assume you have the edelbrock 1409,so how did you set yours up?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-07-2006 at 12:57pm
brad your carb's not that far off and with a little more fine tuning you'll have it and your expectation that when it's hot you shouldn't have to hit the gas is correct and we'll get you there inventually.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-07-2006 at 12:55pm
I never thought my Dad was as good as he is, until I made him hook-up my first car to a 4 gas analyser to dial in the carb that he rebuilt and adjusted on the 65 belair a month ot two earlier. He tryed and let me try to get it better than it was already set at but we couldn't, that's the day I learned why all of the other mechanics in town came to my dad with carb problems they couldn't fix asking for help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-07-2006 at 12:52pm
Sorry I started such a differnce in opinion.I'll try leaning it down some more,who knows I may have to change some rods and jets,since this is a 600 edelbrock instead of a 450 holley.What do you all think of that,maybe the carb is a little too big.I just hate holleys,plus there more expensive.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 77stang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-07-2006 at 12:33pm
79,

I have to use the manuals, i'm a CPA not a mechanic although my father was a factory mechanic for forty years and always stressed the importance of manuals. I've been burned enough by shade trees and winging it if you will (certainly not assuming you are a shade tree or anything even close to such)

I might add however, that a small percetage of GM truck rearends howled and it was caused by an issue never addressed in the manuals. hence GM sent some engineers here to tulsa to see what dad did to solve the problem. thus, your comments on experience and not complete reliance on manuals is well understood
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-07-2006 at 12:21pm
I always loved bookworms, they where good about quoting from books and taking tests, but put them in the lab or the real world and they can't do jack most of the time.

nothing personal or anything just my view point.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 77stang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-07-2006 at 12:20pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

Jerry calling you an a?? would be insulting,

making a comment about chasing it is sarcasm


i guess i'm just being a bit sensitive - no harm, no foul - ill just fall back into obsecurity
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 77stang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-07-2006 at 12:18pm
79,

your right on my wasting time talking about a holley.

I looked up the procedures for his carb after my error (altough i still havent found the manufactures procedures). nonetheless, the procedures i did find were substantially more involved than any other assitance provided in this thread.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-07-2006 at 12:16pm
Jerry calling you an a?? would be insulting,

making a comment about chasing it is sarcasm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-07-2006 at 12:08pm
It doesn't help explaining how to adjust a completely different carb.

Joe, I guess if the coil is getting enough heat to open it up then it shouldn't load up the engine, usually the electrical current heats the coil and there isn't a heat riser passage when an electric choke is used so it won't open as quick as it should if the wires where connected.
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