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YooperSully View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote YooperSully Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Gut Job
    Posted: August-07-2012 at 11:43pm
Throttle creep fix.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-31-2012 at 1:39pm
Pics of the throttle creap fix??
I hate not being able to take my hand off the throttle while under way.
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YooperSully View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote YooperSully Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-31-2012 at 1:16am
Saturday morning I replaced the gaskets on my carb and realigned my shaft. One or both seemed to fix my isssues. I put around 50 miles on the engine Saturday and it ran without a flaw and strong as a champ. It's so nice to park the boat and not have any issues with it bouncing around in my head. Thanks to all who helped me get this project done. Without this community I would have never been able to do it. Thanks Guys. P.S. $2 is all it took to stop the throttle creep. A simple cable clamp and two extra nuts cured the issue and now I can hold a constant R.P.M. even after 20 minutes under throttle it stays pretty darn close to where you set it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bbishop1974 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-28-2012 at 10:23am
roger,ck your cable adjustments.it wouldnt hurt to ck for vacuum leak.the carb base gaskets turn to mush and cause a high idle.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-27-2012 at 10:14pm
Roger,
How did your strut/shaft/log/engine alignment turn out? Can you spin the prop and shaft easily? Did you get the coupling face at all four spots to or less than .003"? If not, the shaft is binding pulling the RPM's down to the 600 and the fast idle is simply a adjustment at the carb.


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YooperSully View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote YooperSully Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-27-2012 at 10:10pm
What causes a fast idle in neutral but good at idle in gear. 1000 in N. 600 in fear
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YooperSully View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote YooperSully Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-26-2012 at 12:22pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Roger,
The creep back on the throttle is normal.

Hey, did you ever figure out the wiring at the aft end?


Yeah I did, luckily for me I didn't cut the end of the wires like I thought I did. The outer ring connections holds the ground wire (black) from wiring harness and ground from deck fill( green in my case), Red was connected to the center post.

After some online searching I'm going to try a metal cable clamp to cure the throttle creep.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-25-2012 at 8:46am
Roger,
The creep back on the throttle is normal.

Hey, did you ever figure out the wiring at the aft end?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-25-2012 at 1:34am
You know, you could be right. That full throttle > Choke opening feature may not exist on every carb. You're right that the fast idle cam is not supposed to be on a marine carb. So, maybe the marine carbs don't have the "un load" feature either.

I think the throttle is supposed to spring back. Mine does. Not fast, but it creeps its way back. Someone said it is a safety feature? I know my Holley has some sort of throttle return spring, although, it is not a very heavy spring, and my throttle does not return quickly, just a little bit of pressure keeps it down.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote YooperSully Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-25-2012 at 1:24am
My brain was telling me that I saw something when I actually read it. Last year when I was trying to figure out my lag out of the hole I was reading alot of Holley literature. In the literature I read about full throttle being used to clear a flooded carb. I called Holley Tech Support today and they stated that that is mainly on the Non-Marine Carbs. It is connected to the fast idle some how and on a Marine version the fast Idle isn't used because it would result in going into gear at high idle. So all in all I never saw it on my boat I just read it somewhere and then thought I saw it.

On a different note I got her out on the water tonite and she ran better than it ever has for me I'm smiling ear to ear. All in all I had three issues tonite though on the first test. I had to adjust my throttle and gear cables, going into forward was happening at too high of an r.p.m., Second on the way back to load at the dock my steering jambed up. When I got home it happened to be the vent hose hanging too low and jambing the rudder from turning, Then the third is I have a creeping throttle that I'm looking for some advice on. It doesn't really matter what speed I'm going it only takes about 15 seconds and the throttle starts throttling back. Does any one have any suggestions on how I can remedy this? Or does a new cable do the trick?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-24-2012 at 3:00pm
But, there is supposed to be something that mechanically forces the choke open under full throttle, in order to unload a flooded engine, right?

I couldn't find something Holley Specific, but I did find this cool old Popular Mechanics article:
PM Automatic Choke Article
Look in the first paragraph.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-24-2012 at 2:50pm
Roger,
The choke isn't controlled by the throttle. There is a bimetalic spring under the round black cover on the side of the carb. When you turn on the ignition, this spring gets powered up which heats it opening up the choke.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote YooperSully Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-24-2012 at 2:31pm
I'm darn near ready for the first wet test. After hooking up my carb i notice the choke doesn't open when the throttle is moved to full. What did I miss or what needs to be adjusted to get this to happen?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote YooperSully Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-23-2012 at 6:41pm
My driver seat right now has the fiberglass base, then some marine plastic built up in 3/4" layers where the original seat slides are suppose to be, then my seat. I was wondering if I ordered this Seat Slides, would I need anything else in order to connect it to my base and seat other than some bolts from the local hardware store or does this include everything that I'll need?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-21-2012 at 7:26pm
You had better trace the wires and see where they go. Black would be the normal color for ground. The green may be jumpers to ground all the metal. The red may be the aft stern light. Where's the gas gauge sender wire? Again, see where they go and or get the VOM out.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote YooperSully Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-21-2012 at 6:25pm
I'm encountering a brain freeze currently. Can some one tell me what wires go where with hooking up the gas tank? I have a red and a black and a green, I think the green goes to the deck fill and then to the center post? Which would mean that's the ground? So the black also goes there? Then the red goes on the terminal on the outside of the ring?   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2012 at 9:04am
10% of the gross weight is normal on the tongue.

U bolts at McMaster


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2012 at 2:39am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote YooperSully Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2012 at 2:24am
What is the rule of thumb for tongue weight. I've heard many different formulas, also does anyone know where to buy the u-bolts that hold the bow stop and where to find new lenses for old air guide speedo's?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-19-2012 at 8:56am
You can just "eye ball" or measure the position rod ends on the front mounts. It doesn't matter if you are off slightly. Get it as level as you can with the hull. The critical is the shaft to engine alignment.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote YooperSully Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-19-2012 at 3:46am
Thanks Pete for the info on the shaft and log. I landed the motor in this evening and got to wondering..... How do you make sure your motor is level from left to right after a job like this? or will it really matter if I'm a few degrees off axis? It was a good feeling to slide the rear seat in and have it fit snug. Glad the floor heights ended up correct in the rear.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jllogan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-06-2012 at 4:01pm
Mine is possibly different so I will wait for someone with a 88 or 87 to chime in. Looking good though. You are really making headway now.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote YooperSully Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-06-2012 at 3:24pm
I'm a few days away from gelcoating and I have one issue I was looking to solve. When rebuilding I left the plywood up front run long over the bilge, I didn't have an original piece to trace the cut out for the engine. I'm looking for some dimensions for the 87' for the cut out on the ply wood. I didn't want to make the cut earlier in case it was too big and the engine cover wouldn't cover it. But I'd like to get it cut so I can dress the edge before I gel. The easiest way I can think of to get these numbers would be to have some one pull their rear hatch and hook a tape to the bolt head at the top of the rudder and then give me some dimensions from that to each side. Would any one be able to help me with this? Otherwise I have to wait for my shaft to come in and then lower the motor enough to get an idea of how much room Is needed for the motor and fuel filter up front. My motor is in a storage unit and I'd have to get it out, in the boat, then out of the boat and the back into the unit until I'm done gelcoating.
Here's some pictures of where I'm at right now.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote YooperSully Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2012 at 4:02pm
I'm slowly moving along with the project. I've come to realize that when doing a job like this the posts never show how much grinding their realy is. For every picture of progress their should be five pictures of grinding. When I removed my shaft I pleasantly found some nice grooving where the cutlass is. Joy oh joy. The last rebuild had the primary stringers to close to each other that their wasn't enough rooom to align the engine right. Now that the foam is all done I removed the boat from the warehouse and trailered it back to my house to complete the project. The first thing I noticed was that the boat sat evenly on the trailer, prior to ripping it apart every time I trailered it it would creep to one side. I'm thinking that that meant one side was more water logged in the foam and the extra weight to one side would push it to the other once it started bouncing down the road. Here are some pics.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-13-2012 at 12:38pm
Ace where are you located?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote YooperSully Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-13-2012 at 10:58am
Does some one know how many cubic feet of foam there is under the floor?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HatterBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-02-2012 at 1:12am
That would be a hard estimate, especially for a quality job. I have been doing mine in the driveway, you don't necessarily have to have a big shop or many special tools. The weather will dictate some of your working times, but it beats paying someone to do it. The tools required are also affordable. I would highly advise you to research other threads and at least entertain the idea of doing it yourself, it is very rewarding.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote acedizzle916 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-02-2012 at 12:20am
This kind of complete rebuild is what my 1983 needs, but I don't have the tools or the environment to do this kind of work myself. What should I expect to pay for someone to restore my entire interior for me?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote YooperSully Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2012 at 11:38am
Hey guys, I'm looking for some more info. I just finnished cutting out my second secondary stringer, and I'm getting ready to lay them in. My measurements are still a little blurry in some areas. I guess my first question would be, how wide is the cavity between the secondary and main for the exhaust hose. Any number will do, either at the rear of the boat or towards the bow where the channel ends with the piece of wood that goes to the primary. Second, how far from the rear of the boat does the exhaust cavity go(from the rear to the piece of would that cuts the channel off and ties in to the main stringer). If someone could hook a tape on the bolt at the center of the rudder shaft and give me a dimension that would be great. Also what are the dimensions of the rear hatch that the motor cover sits on? Also if someone could hook a tape on the rudder shaft bolt in the center and let me know how far it is to the front edge near the motor of the hatch. Trying to build back to original after it has been hacked by pictures is proving to be a tought task. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dochockey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-11-2012 at 10:39am
Originally posted by Morfoot Morfoot wrote:

Wouldn't it be cool if we had in the reference section homemade copies of Blueprints of main and secondary stringers of the different hulls that have been restrung here. I realize that it would be extra effort on the owners part to to lay out every dimension but man it sure would be helpful to those who will need to do a stringer job and whose stringers are nothing but mush and dust.



I've been on a mission to do just that only I wanted to take it a step further and have actual templates made up.   I wrote CC and Art remembers having templates but that is as far as I've gotten don't know if they are on a shelf some where hiding or thrown away?
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